I have a slow leak out of the drain plug, but I do believe that i'm burning 90% of it.

I removed the CDR and soaked it in gas for about an hour, then i swished it out with gas a few times and let it dry before I put it back on, maybe I just need a new one? I don't know, I haven't had the air cleaner lid off recently to see if there's any oil mist in there.

But my oil pressure gauge has been reading high ever since I bought the truck. It hasn't caused me any issues but this truck is REALLY going through the oil. Could high oil pressure cause it to burn it faster? I don't, unfortunately, have access to a mechanical gauge down here. But I'll run by schucks/napa and see how much they cost.

Every time I shut the engine off and go to check the level or add, there is smoke/steam coming out of the dipstick tube or the filler tube.

Any idea? It's killing me. I put in two quarts of Lucas oil stabilizer as the level went down, and now I'm just topping off with 15w-40 every few days.

Anyone ever try Rislone Ring Repair?

Thanks
-Matt

 

It's possible the diaphragm in the CDR is damaged. It would then permit oil to constantly be pulled from the crankcase and possibly cause a run away situation. I believe you test it by trying to blow through the little hole on the back side(dont use compressed air). If you can blow through it, then the diaphragm is bad.

 

if you have over 100k on the CDR,then just replace it with a new one.
hit the auto parts store and get a new drain plug washer.
use good quality engine oil.you get what you pay for.
check the oil only after you have run it for 20+ minutes down the road,wait 10 minutes for the oil to drain back into the base.this is the true engine level.
do NOT add any oil until the indicator shows you need too.

 

Before I rebuilt my engine 1 liter every 200 miles was the norm. Truck ran fine and the lowest cylinders still pushed over 400 PSI compression.

In my case, most of the problem probably came from old, crusty valve stem seals. Cleaning the CRD did help a little, but not much, it was just a fact of life that I learned to live with.

As far as oil mist in the intake is concerned, that will happen on any diesel unless you are dumping it out under the truck somewhere. Even a brand new engine with zero miles will ingest small amounts of oil mist from day one. You can't really tell how much oil is going in there based on how much you can see when you look in the air cleaner.

I wouldn't waste too much time on "cure in a bottle" products because more often than not, they are really just snake oil.

One question however is how are you checking your oil? Hot or cold engine? where on the crossed hatch are you filling the level to?

Proper time to check the oil is about 10 minutes after a hot shutdown. Don't try and fill the crossed hatch all the way. The higher the oil is on the crossed hatch area, the higher the rate of consumption will be.

 

Usually I check it after I get home from driving. I let it sit for a few minutes, but i've never let it sit for ten. But after three minutes of sitting when i checked it yesterday, the dipstick was reading two quarts low from the top of the cross hatch. I think it's safe to say that there wasn't two quarts still draining into the pan at that point, but I will check it this way from now on.

Just ordered my CDR and grommet from Parts Guy Ed, great prices. Beat the local dealers by about 50%

Thanks
-Matt

 

CDR is about 10 oz's at best a pound. Check with a local IH dealer........

Do you know when to service your CDR valve?

All 6.9L and 7.3L diesel engines are equipped with a CDR (Crankcase Depression Regulator) valve. Even the new 7.3L Power Stroke is also equipped with the same valve. The CDR valve is one of the leading causes of head gasket failure in these engines. The CDR valve is responsible for controlling the pressure/vacuum in the engine crankcase, and seperating the oil mist from the air and returning the oil to the crankcase. The CDR valve should be serviced every second oil change or when signs listed below are seen.

When the CDR valve is not properly serviced, engine oil enters the air intake and is drawn into the engine. The diesel engine will burn this oil as fuel, however, it is heavier and thicker than diesel fuel and, having greater BTU output, causes excessive heat in the cylinder. Due to the intake manifold design, most of the oil will migrate to #7 and #8 cylinders; the last two cylinders in the rear by the firewall. The increased temperature here will cause the cylinder head to lift off the gasket and allow water or oil to leak out the back of the cylinder head where it meets the block.

To check your CDR valve, remove the air cleaner hold down bolt and inspect it. If the bolt is covered with engine oil mist, it's time to service your CDR valve! Ford calls this item a "Adapter assembly for Crankcase Ventilation" Part number E3TZ-6A665-A or IH part #1805319C1


To service the CDR wash with a solvent, allow to dry, do not use compressed air to dry. There is a small hole in the CDR back cover, ensure it is clean and open. If black chunks of rubber are visible in the intake, on the screen then the rubber membrane has disintegrated, replace the CDR.

 

What did that set you back? I grabbed an extra CDR to have as a spare from the junkyard that wasn't original so I figure it's newer than mine. I have just been curious as to what they cost.

 

I've been told there around 70$ here.

 

the CDR was $47.75, a new grommet was $2.50. Out the door with tax and shipping I paid a total of $65.43 for the two.

 

get a compression test done, i had a the same problem and was low on one cylinder maybe a bad ring or something like that. If not valve seals. I wasted a lota cash on CDR even rebuilt the turbo trying to cure the oil usage only to find i needed a new engine.