I just had to replace the pass rear pads and rotor on my 05 Sport Trac. It was down to the metal, but now I have noticed that it is smoking hot every once and awhile. I think I need to replace the caliper, but I am worried that the ABS will give me a problem when I bleed the brakes. Is this something that I can do or is this one of those computer (dealer) things? Also, do I need to bleed all 4 wheels or just the one or the back brakes only? I miss the old days when all this fancy stuff wasn't around. I would appreciate any help on this.

 

Just went through this with our 2003 2 door Sport model last fall.
I replaced rear pads only to find the passenger side running too
hot. Went ahead and replaced both rear calipers and that cured
the problem. (Driver side seemed ok...but I decided to replace
both while I was in there.).

1) I do have ABS and didn't have to bleed the front brakes. Thing
to remember is that you can't let the master cylinder run dry.
If you run the master cylinder dry...then you'll need special
device to get them bled properly.

2) You will have to bleed both rear brakes to get all the air in
the rear circuit out. If you can afford it...you should consider
replacing both rear calipers. There's an even chance that the
other one will also start sticking...so it's easier in the long run
to go ahead and get it all done at once. If you do plan on
only replacing one caliper...make sure that you can open
the bleeder on the other side. If it won't open or strips out
(common occurrence up here in the rust belt)...you're going
to have to most likely replace it anyways.

3) When you bleed it...start with the caliper furthest away from
the master cylinder...that is the rear passenger side. Then do
the other side. Again make sure that the master cylinder does
not run dry. I actually waited about 10 minutes with both
rear bleeders open and the brake fluid gravity fed its way
back to the calipers. I then tightened them up and then
proceeded to use my handy helper (wife of 35 years) to
pump them while i worked the bleeders.

4) When you go to pick up the caliper(s)...you should bring the
old one(s) with you. That way you can make sure it's the correct
one. I had some issues with NAPA on securing the correct calipers.
In all fairness though...the 2003 was the last year for the 2 door
Sport model and it seems Ford didn't do a good job in documenting
what parts they used. (Had the same problem with the pads).
Taking the old parts with you may keep you from having to make
a second trip back. Also...that way you can leave the old ones and
won't get charged a "core charge". If you do take them with you...
make sure to block off the end of the brake line so the master
cylinder doesn't run dry.

Funny thing that happened when I did this was that the rear caliper
on our F250 started sticking while I was using it to go get the calipers
for the Explorer. Ended up replacing both those calipers also.

I was surprised at the amount of water globules that came through
the brake system when I bled them. (I used a piece of clear plastic
vinly tubing into a bottle). I could see why the calipers were becoming
sticky. Guess I'll start doing a brake bleed procedure annually to
hopefully prevent the from sticking again.

I also agree with you about the old days. Those of us who came up
with vehicles with points and condensers can get a bit bewildered
by the new technology.
regards,
George

 

Before replacing the calipers don't rule out the chance of it being a collapsed brake hose. If you can easily compress the caliper with the bleeder open, the problem is likely not the caliper. Also make sure the slide pins are clean and lubricated.

Really it's not a bad idea to flush the engine brake system with fresh fluid, especially if that has not been done recently. Moisture from old, contaminated brake fluid can cause the valves and solenoids in the ABS module to corrode and stick, leading to a very costly repair down the road. If you're bleeding the rears, you may as well do all four and flush the system.

-Rod

 

I replaced the caliper yesterday. I only bleed the one side. I couldn't get
the bleeder screw loose on the other side. What size wrench are those things? A 10mm was a bit too big and a 9 was too small. BTW, the fluid was clean and clear, so it may be the hose cause the caliper was easy to push back this time.

 

Actually that will depend somewhat on the quality of wrench you use and if it's a 12-point or 6-point. I thought they were 8mm, but maybe they're 3/8 inch. I typically start with a good 6-point socket in 1/4 inch drive (so I can't put too much torque on it too quickly) then once it's loose, I switch to the combination wrench which is 12-point.

-Rod