I recall reading that some special tool was needed due to the ABS in order to properly bleed the brakes. Is that correct? Or can I just bleed the brakes the standard way. Thanks

 

Crack brake bleeders one at a time and let about a pint gravity bleed out, repeat from RR LR RF LF. Then bleed as normal, slow steady pumps. If i recall the only time the computer has to be hooked up to the abs circuit diring bleeding is if the abs pump has been replaced

 

I have abs and didn't use a special tool and if you don't have help to bleed them do this.. I think this gets better result than the old two man bleed job anyways...
Start with the caliper furthest from the master and work closer to it. Mine was right rear left rear right front left front, Get yourself a clear hose that fits your bleeder a water bottle cut a hole in the cap put the hose in through the cap and put a zip tie around the hose just under the cap and screw it on the bottle so it don't pull out. Fill the bottle up with some brake fluid so that the end of the hose is completely submerged in the fluid. Put it on the nipple open the valve pump your brakes shot 3-5 times and use your phone to take a video of the air that comes out of the lines and pump til your video shows no more air the same process for each caliper. Just did mine today by myself. The most important thing is to make sure the hose inside the bottle is under the fluid so it doesn't suck air back in

 

If you wanna go that route just install some speed bleeders and be done

 

Thanks everyone. Yes, the tool is actually an ABS scanner iirc. Already have speed bleeders ready to go...for the last 3 years. 10 years and 120k miles on original fluid, it's time.

 

If your just changing fluid i would do a gravity bleed at all 4 wheels, run half a qt through the RR bleeder, close RR bleeder, crack LR bleeder and gravity bleed about half a pint, close LR bleeder, crack RF bleeder and gravity bleed a pint through it, close RF bleeder, crack LF bleeder and gravity bleed a half of a pint through it, close LF bleeder. Pump brake pedal until firm, proceed with bleeding from RR LR RF LF with your speed bleeders, done, i would not drain the system dry. Doing the above will be more than sufficient to ensure new brake fluid in the system

 

You should only need an IDS type scanner to do a "service bleed" if you now have air in the ABS module, if not just make sure the master cylinder does not run out of fluid and you should be fine, either gravity or pressure bleeding will work just fine.

 

I start my truck and have someone in cab pushing the pedal for me

 

Ditto, I have done this many times with no special tools or problems, just pump the pedal slowly and make sure you do not get air in the lines.

 

What size hose do you use and where do you get it?

 

I have a Motive Power pressure bleeder which was life changing when it comes to this PITA job if you replace lines or calipers, especially considering the $59 it cost.

Put a quart of fluid in it, attach it to the master cyl and pump it up to about 15 psi. Bleed each caliper starting the furthest away from the master cyl in approximately 10 minutes without having anyone pump the brakes or running back and forth to make sure you don't run low on fluid.

 

I use a vacuum bleeder and the one issue I see everytime is air does leak through the threads of the bleeder when in operation. For those using a bottle with fluid the same effect should happen there also. As the suction tries to pull the fluid back up into the caliper from the bottle air will leak through threads on bleeder valve. I would suggest having someone slowly press the pedal once you are done and crack the bleeder and then close while pedal is still being pushed. That will take out any remaining remnants of air in the caliper.

 

I vac evac also.
My vac source is an old laboratory vacuum pump, manual switch, and I close the bleeder before turning off the pump.
Neat thing: I have a glass catch jar before the pump. When it has some old fluid in the jar I plug the line and run it to zero PSI. and watch it "boil" (foam).
I'm guessing the boil is the water in the brake fluid as eventually the foaming stops.

 

Boiling point for water is 212 degrees F. Boiling point for Dot 3 fluid is 284 degrees f. Putting a 28hg vacuum to water causes the boiling point to lower to around 60 degrees or so. I would think the brake fluid wouldn't be far behind.

At least you got to see how moisture would be removed from a contaminates air conditioning system on vacuum.

 

I also have that unit. Used it on my 75 super beetle, 81 Volvo and going to use it on my 2002 f350 today after replacing all calipers. A great unit