05 Explorer Brake Help
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05 Explorer Brake Help
I am having a hell of a time with this vehicle. It has 70,000 miles on it and it was time to change the pads, disks all around. I had the fron rotors turned, the rears too hard to get off so I left them alone. Put on ceramics from Autozone. Bleed the entire system beginning at the right rear wheel.
The problem is the brake pads, especially the left rear, are rubbing too hard, I get burnt brake smell after driving it. Is there some procedure with this system that I need to perform. On all of my past vehicles, I just slapped new pads on and they settled in, but I am actually burning pads with this one. I have had them apart to check the calipers, all seems to be free and working properly. I bleed the brakes at the wheels, is there somewhere else that I need to bleed them?
The problem is the brake pads, especially the left rear, are rubbing too hard, I get burnt brake smell after driving it. Is there some procedure with this system that I need to perform. On all of my past vehicles, I just slapped new pads on and they settled in, but I am actually burning pads with this one. I have had them apart to check the calipers, all seems to be free and working properly. I bleed the brakes at the wheels, is there somewhere else that I need to bleed them?
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Not sure but sounds like you have a problem with the ABS pump. When you first start to drive the car do you, at some point, hear the ABS pump running for a few seconds? Have you a ABS light on on the dash? When bleeding the system did you replace all the old fluid? Did you clean and grease caliper sliders? Did the pads fit easily into place or were they tight where they slot on to the caliper? Sometimes the paint coating on new calipers is thick enough to cause them to jam. Hope this helps you.
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Thanks for the response.
I don't get an ABS light. I am not sure if I hear the ABS pump run when I start, I will check if I hear it.
I bleed all the lines until the fluid was clear and clean looking.
I did clean the caliper sliders and put the brake grease on them. The pads went in easily with plenty of room after the piston was depressed.
I don't get an ABS light. I am not sure if I hear the ABS pump run when I start, I will check if I hear it.
I bleed all the lines until the fluid was clear and clean looking.
I did clean the caliper sliders and put the brake grease on them. The pads went in easily with plenty of room after the piston was depressed.
Post Fiend
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Sounds like you have done everything right. On cars with ABS the system will usually do a self diagnostic check for about 3secs within a short time of starting to drive. However try this, the next time you feel the brakes starting to bind unplug the electrical connection from the ABS pump. If the brakes free up then you know your pump is faulty (you will have brakes as normal, just no ABS). The down side to this is you may then get a ABS light on.
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OK, I tried some more diagnosis, the left rear brake is hanging up and rubbing the rotor while driving.
1. I removed the fuse to the ABS pump, drove around block, the wheels were cool.
2. I put fuse back in, drove around block, wheels were warmer, but not hot.
3. I turned off the traction control, drove around block. Left rear brake was smoking hot.
4. I removed the fuse to the ABS pump again, drove around the block, not as hot but still a little smoke.
Then, I jacked up the rear end, put it in drive, the left rear brake keeps the tire from spinning. I unplugged the left rear sensor, it still will not turn in drive. The right rear spins freely in drive, but the left rear will not turn unless I force it with gas or apply the brake it will releas for a second before re-engaging.
I am wondering if there is somthing wrong with the caliper, I don't think ABS is the problem since it acts the same way even with the sensor unplugged.
1. I removed the fuse to the ABS pump, drove around block, the wheels were cool.
2. I put fuse back in, drove around block, wheels were warmer, but not hot.
3. I turned off the traction control, drove around block. Left rear brake was smoking hot.
4. I removed the fuse to the ABS pump again, drove around the block, not as hot but still a little smoke.
Then, I jacked up the rear end, put it in drive, the left rear brake keeps the tire from spinning. I unplugged the left rear sensor, it still will not turn in drive. The right rear spins freely in drive, but the left rear will not turn unless I force it with gas or apply the brake it will releas for a second before re-engaging.
I am wondering if there is somthing wrong with the caliper, I don't think ABS is the problem since it acts the same way even with the sensor unplugged.
Post Fiend
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OK, one question, did you notice if there was a flexi brake hose to each rear wheel or just one in the center feeding both rear calipers. If a flexi hose for each wheel it is possible that it is faulty. You can diagnost that by getting the left rear to bind again and open the bleed screw, if the wheel frees up you know the hose is bad. The only other thing left is that the caliper piston is tight and not releasing but I would have thought you would have noticed it stiff to retract when you replaced the pads. Check also that your parking brake is not binding at that wheel.
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There is a flexible hose on each side. I am pretty sure that it does free up when i crack the bleed valve. It looks nice and round and un kinked, but I suppose there could be an obstruction, I will try replacing it.
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Post Fiend
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Your vehicle is young to have hose problems but what happens is that the rubber on the inside gets soft and can block the fluid path. Pedal pressure can force fluid thru but it can`t return. I feel it would be worth a try.
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I replaced the left rear brake hose, problem still there so that wasn't it. I thing the only thing left is the caliper (which appears to be working to me) or up at the ABS pump. Unless anyone has any ideas how I can find the problem I am going to have to take it in to the mechanic and see what they can find. This really shouldn't be happening at 65,000 miles.
Post Fiend
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OK, another thought. Did you notice if the caliper piston was metal or plastic (known as phenolic piston). If the latter get a caliper repair kit and replace the piston, they are known to distort over time and stick in the bore when hot.
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