When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
hi chris
i basically tried to clean up all the
terminals the best i could
the TPS terminals looked okay to me
but the IVS ones were dirty and some corroded
i did not clean the terminal ends that
remain in the truck when the accl assb is removed
...maybe i should have
also, i could see no way to clean the insides of
the IVS or the TPS units
i did blow compressed air over everything
and finally, i rapidly moved the accl through
it's entire range of motion several times
to make sure the insides of the TPS unit
were rubbing good on each other
when i put it all back together my truck ran fine
if it starts doing it again
i'll probably buy the whole unit
i did break a tab off the truck terminal for the IVS unit
and don't know exactly what it'd take to fix this
but it is holding okay for now
I have a 1999 ford f-250 superduty 7.3, the past 2-weeks I have noticed it has been drinking fuel!! also leaving for work in the morning I pull out of the drivway, press the accelerator & when I keep accelerating after about 20mph there is a dead area in the pedal, if I press the pedal further then it will accelerate, but kind of a jerky pedal. It almost seems like something is holding back around that speed until I accelerate more. I removed the tps & IVA plugs & sprayed contact cleaner on them---no luck. Fuel filter was just changed also. Also I noticed my cruise control does not work & I never use it. Anyone ever experiance this issue????
Oh!! one more thing, it seems to do it mostly below 30 degrees, once it warms up the dead spot goes away, but!!! at the same speed as I mentioned, something still seems to have that holind back mode!!! any input would help!! I am totally stumped at this point.
Since you say this happens when the weather is below freezing and the engine is cold, I think it could be related to the EBPV remaining closed too much and too long. You might want to research some EBPV Threads and see what you think. Here's a link to just one: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-pressure.html
Lots of guys disconnect the wire harness at the turbo pedestal to disable this valve from closing. My truck was acting doggy on some cold starts so I removed the wire harness and seem to have gotten rid of that issue.
On my 2001, there are two wire harness's that connect to the lower portion of the turbo pedestal. One on the lower front of the pedestal, and a second one a little lower toward the left (passenger's) side of the turbo pedestal. The one to unplug is the lower one on the passenger side of the pedestal. I initially removed the wrong one. The one on the front is easier to access and more visible. Leave that one plugged in. The one to unplug is a little more difficult to access and a bit less visible. But it's still relatively easy to find and unplug. Just follow the wires that head down to the lower portion of the turbo pedestal and unplug the correct wire harness connector.
My truck isn't readily accessible at the moment. I believe you'll have little trouble finding a photo already posted on this Forum. Search using words like - EBPV - disconnect - harness - unplug -, etc...
Since you say this happens when the weather is below freezing and he engine is cold, I think it could be related to the EBPV remaining closed too much and too long. You might want to research some EBPV Threads and see what you think. Here's a link to just one: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-pressure.html
Lots of guys disconnect the wire harness at the turbo pedestal to disable this valve from closing. My truck was acting doggy on some cold starts so I removed the wire harness and seem to have gotten rid of that issue.
Thank you very much for your reply!!!! I just unhooked the harness & it seems OK!!! I will try it in the morning when it is colder!!! I will keep ya updated!!! but thnks again!!!
PaulHD----thanks for the info, I pulled the wiring harness on the EBPV and it worked, I will tear into it when I get time but will leave it unplugged for now, thanks so much, good info!!!!
Another question to get out there----my cruise control quit also!!! never use it, checked all fuses ---OK. Aany ideas where to start on this one?????
PaulDH----thanks for the info, I pulled the wiring harness on the EBPV and it worked, I will tear into it when I get time but will leave it unplugged for now, thanks so much, good info!!!!
Another question to get out there----my cruise control quit also!!! Never use it, checked all fuses ---OK. Any ideas where to start on this one?????
There's something called a clockspring under the steering wheel. It's a wiring harness device that allows the steering wheel to rotate while maintaining the electrical connection required in order for the cruise control to function. If anyone ever had the steering drive shaft disconnected from the power steering pump and turned the steering wheel more than once or twice in either direction, they might have broken the clockspring. There's also a little electrical prong on the clockspring wiring that fastens to the ignition switch. That prong was damaged and no making connection on my truck. Someone pulled the ignition key/switch in the past and bent that prong while reassembling the components. One other thought is there was a recall on my 2001 that involved replacing a wiring harness next to the master brake cylinder because of a fire hazard. The prior owner of my truck had unplugged that wiring harness rather than having the recall wiring harness splice installed by Ford. So that's what I had to go through to get my cruise control functioning again. I installed a new clockspring (aftermarket from Rock Auto) and had a Ford dealership install the recall wiring harness near located near the master brake cylinder. Then mine was good to go. You can learn a lot on this forum by using the Search feature. Type in Cruise Control into the search function and click on "In Titles" and you'll find at least one more control unit that could cause the cruise control to not function. But if everything else electrical wise seems to be working OK on your truck, the problem is likely to be one of the first two items I mentioned. You can call your local Ford dealership and if you give them the VIN of your truck, they should be able to check on their computer and tell you if there are any outstanding recalls that affected your specific truck, and whether or not any of the recall items on your vehicle have already been serviced by Ford. Good luck
On that plug u disconnected for the EBPV, go to radio shack and buy a 470 ohm 1/2 watt resistor and bend the ends and put it in the end of that plug. It will prevent a soft DTC code from being stored.
Thanks to all!!!!! I will check the clock spring etc.
Very good forum!!! I can see there's a lot of help out there !!!! I should have joined a long time ago!!!! I just need to learn my way around here!! not the best computer guy though. Thanks again!!!
The way the dealers rake ya, it sure pays to do whatever you can yourself!!
Ford catalog does not list the TPS for a 1999 7.3 Super Duty as a separate replaceable part which leads to replacing the whole throttle pedal assembly. I found this to be incorrect. If you have a throttle pedal assembly with separate TPS (separate 3 wire connector) and IVS (Idle Validation Switch 2 wire connector) just the TPS can be replaced.
This is a pic of my 99 with new TPS installed.
Without removing the whole assembly you only need to remove the 2 T25 screws and the connector to replace.
Since this part is listed for more then 20 Ford trucks I figured it would work in my 99 7.3. I bought a brand new TPS from Pete (F250_) that he could not use. He has a 2002 with one 5 wire connector. It works perfectly in my 99. Not sure if it will work in a 2000 or 2001 but if the TPS and IVS each have their own connector it should. Make a visual inspection to be sure.
Part DY-967 or F4SZ-9B989-AA - Potentiometer
I was going to go with a Dorman TPS but like PartsGuyED likes to say "OEM Baby". The OEM TPS through Ed is actually cheaper then the Dorman.
Side-by-side pic of the old and new TPS. Only the center rotating part is different but it fits and works just fine. It also has a better fit so there is less slop and almost immediate response.
By the way, the original TPS was working fine so I have no idea what the symptoms of a bad TPS are. Since it was available I replaced it to have a spare and to see if this one would work. Both Pete and I thought it would and we were right.
Where did u get the one on the right with the slot???I need that for my 1995 but CANNOT find the one that has the slot like the one on the right???? Mine has all the symptoms mentioned on this forum Thanks Terry
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.