My Ac compressor is shot on my truck. I took it to a couple of local shops and they have quoted me no less than 800 up to 1200 to replace the compressor and the orifice.

My question is this.

I am considering buying the following parts from ed:

1:Compressor assy

2:Condensor (just because mine looks like junk almost 290K on it)

3: Dehydrator

4:Hose and tube assy (is this the orifice tube?)

Before disassembly it I will take it to a shop and have it evacuated,

after I install all the parts I would then take it to a qualified AC shop to have it evacuated and recharged

total price for all the parts from Ed is right around $600 plus shipping(maybe $100) and that is including a new condenser which none of the shops included in their estimate. I am figuring maybe $140 for the 2 trips to the shop giving me a total of $740 to $840 with a mostly new system.

So is this do able?

will I need any special wrenches or tools?

will I need any other parts?

I have attached a pdf of the parts I plan to order from Ed so let me know what you think.

Thanks
Steve

 

The orifice tube you need fits inside a line and shoud only cost a few dollars don't remember the exact amount

 

If you don't have one get a decent quick-disconnect release tool. This is the tool I got at Napa.

1 tool 4 sizes. 2 sizes one side. Flip and open the other way for 2 more sizes. 5/8 , 3/4, 7/8 and 1 inch, I believe.

 

thanks for the picks and part numbers, I tried to rep ya but I gotta spread it around.

So have you ever done any AC work? all my "knowledge" thus far is from reading internet articles. I understand the theory behind how it works just hoping for some advice from someone with bloody knuckle experience.

 

Steve, I would seriously consider buying the parts but have the A/C shop install them for you.
Exception: Do the work to replace the condensor, which might not need replacing anyway. Reconsider replacing it, as it doesn't "wear" out, although cracks might begin if you do a lot of frame-twisting rock crawling. You will save a lot by getting and using a fin straightener instead as long as it isn't leaking.
Here's why a shop should replace the parts:
They are simple to access, quickly and easily replaced. No long shop hours there.
If you replace parts, they may decline responsibility for detecting and neutralizing leaks. (Ask me how I know this!)
If they replace parts, they must detect, locate and fix any (new) leaks. It is their mistake for any lost refrigerant if they don't assemble things correctly. That stuff gets expensive fast.
The truck's A/C system should be flushed to remove contaminants, both chemical and physical such as fine metal shavings, before replacing the orifice tube and drier - both of which incorporate filters. You don't want the nasty contaminating the new parts. They have the equipment and chemicals to properly flush the system as well.
The system should be evacuated immediately after the new drier is installed, without waiting. That desiccant is powerful, and will pull moisture out of even seemingly dry air, which will shorten its life, even if the new compressor doesn't turn on in the meanwhile, after you install it but before they get to it.
Just my opinion, and hope this helps.

 

 

I've done a few compressor replacements (not on this truck) -- it's not that big of deal. If yours has actually come apart, you'll need to flush all the lines you're not replacing with denatured alcohol. You're replacing the correct parts (O-tube & receiver-drier, condenser optional, if the compressor suffered "black death"). When I converted my old Bronco from R12 to R134, it was a lot easier than I thought (that was my first DIY AC job). Fortunately, I have a friend with a vacuum pump to do my own evacs...

Here's some reading on the subject:
Automotive AC Information Forum - ACKITS.COM

 

Black death is indeed the prognosis

thanks for the link izzy, if I go through with it I will document well and do a writeup with pics and parts/price breakdown.

 

Here's a write-up: LINK

Ed,,

Nice exploded view. Thanks. Tried to rep you but the thought will have to count.

 

nice, Thanks Robin!! tried to rep ya but ya know......

 

I know how it goes. Thanks for trying.

 

Joe hit it that if the compressor took a crap, definitely fluch the system. Finde someone with a food vac pump and guages and the job will be done right. If you were in Columbus, Ohio bring it on over!!!!

 

so whats the best way to flush it? I have read denatured alcohol...... so what do I do pour it in the lines and blow it out with compressed air?

 

pressurized can made for flushing a/c systems. Try NAPA or a truck parts supply house. Avoid using air compressor, it introduces moisture into system then takes longer to evacuate!! good luck

 

Guys, FYI: There is an aftermarket Oriface tube on the market that is easier on your compressor and will help your a/c to run cooler-I bought one for my old '94 F150 and my Nephew still has the truck & his a/c is much cooler than mine in my '99 F350 with the vacuum line mod-If I ever have to repair or service my a/c one of these gems is going in!
I think we still have the paperwork/receipt for it-if anyone needs to know more....

The smart oriface tube is at www.imcool.com I think this is the one that was recomended by a member on the FTE many years ago, and I can testify as to how well it works!