I would like to start by saying that I really wish I could have made RRE this weekend. Im hoping the next one is closer to home. One of these days i would like to meet yall and thank so many of you for your help along the way.

I was however productive with the truck this weekend.
Sunday I replaced my compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube.
Total job took roughly 3 hours (including an hour of watching the vacuum pump and drinking beer).
I have to say, if your not able to get your A/C to work properly by adjusting the shims, I highly recommend going this route.

I have always been afraid of working on the A/C system, just due to a lack of knowledge about it. I will say, its much easier than it looks and worth the effort. So, for those interested, here goes:

First things first I evacuated the system. The proper way to do this is to take it to a shop and have them evacuate, I will leave that part right there.
Once the system has been evacuated, release any pressure by slowly pulling the valve stem from the low pressure side first (fitting on the top of the accumulator). Then follow with the high pressure side (near the condensor). The high side required a pair of needle nose pliers as the valve stem is slightly larger than the tool I had on hand. Be very careful removing the high side as it will still maintain some pressure.

Now time to take the system apart. I started with the compressor as it is easiest to get to. Pull the belt off, unplug the clutch harness, 1 bolt to remove the lines, and 4 to pull the compressor. (dont forget to plug or wrap the lines so no debris ends up in your system). At this point, I pulled the accumulator: Unplug the sensor on the side (hopefully someone can help out here, I believe its the low pressure sensor for the clutch). Disconnect the line to the evaporator going through the firewall. Pull the line to the compressor (1 bolt on top of the accumulator), then unbolt the two straps holding it to the firewall and remove. Rremove the black retainer that is holding the orifice connection together (this is right up against your accumulator and runs into the firewall ~ 1/4" line). And finally with an inexpensive plastic line tool I seperated the line holding the orifice tube in place. Looking toward the cab from the front of the truck you should see the back of the orifice tube, You should be able to pull it easily with a pair of needle nose. Make sure to keep tabs on the direction the orifice tube is installed.

Now, at this point most would flush the system. I did not as the orifice tube came out clean. It comes recommended from most.

Its time to fill the compressor with oil. Our trucks (non EX) use 9 oz of PAG 46. The compressor will come with instruction on which side to fill. Once full, time to re-install. Everything is the reverse of removal except that you will hold the compressor upright while reconnecting the lines. This will keep the oil in the compressor and off of you.

Make sure as you are re-installing to replace all of the o-rings that you can while the system is open.

Replace your orifice tube and then re-install the accumulator.

Once the system is back together you will need to turn your clutch with a compressor clutch tool 9-10 times in order to prevent hydralocking the compressor when you start the truck. This will also move excess oil into the system. Due to clearance issues with the coolant reservoir, I had to unbolt the compressor from the mount in order to complete this.

At this point its time to pull a vacuum on the system. I rented a pump from Autozone for this. Plug your gauges (also rented) into the system, hook up the vacuum line, open the valves, turn the pump on, and crack a beer. Run this for at least an hour. Dont skip this part, if you do, you will most likely end up with moisture in your system.

Now its time to charge the system. For non EX trucks this requires 40oz by weight of R-134a. I used the "first fill" type as it came recommended from a few friends who have done A/C work. I started the truck and had a freind crack the can as soon as I flipped the A/C on.

Check for any obvious leaks when your done.

It was 101 deg. outside when we tested the system and the middle vent was blowing a steady 51 deg. Needless to say, the system is working better than I ever remember and this is the hottest summer on record in San Antonio.

My grand total including oil and refrigerant was just over $300.
I opted fro the severe climate orifice tube here: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...TAMS_888885184___ actual price at the counter was $20.

Hope this helps some of yall.

And a big thanks to all of you here who have answered my questions about A/C/!

 

Very good Will. Reps sent.

 

Excellent write-up! This is going in my "Someday I'll get around to this" list! I always seem to get around to it at the end of summer, then it goes to the bottom of the list only to move up the list next summer...never-ending cycle.

Reps sent!

 

Very nice write-up Will. Reps to you.

I do have one question though. I don't know diddly about A/C so my question is where did you found out how to use the gauges to check the pressures?

 

Thanks for the reps man.
I got almost all of my info here: http://www.aircondition.com/tech/questions/82/
Its like FTE for A/C people
The rest I picked up by asking questions here.

One thing I forgot to add, the guage set is designed to fill from a 134a tank.
If you plan on using the canned 134a (which you can find anywhere) purchase a fill hose for them. They are fairly cheap.
Then intermittantly as you fill, pull the can off and plug the guages back in to the low side to see where you are. You will only be able to fit the fill hose on the low side service port on top of the accumulator.

 

Thanks for the education and link. I'd rep you again but of course I'm not allowed.

 

Glad I could help out.
If you get knee deep in it and need help, just shoot me a PM.

 

Thanks Will but a/c is good right now. Nice to know I will have you as a resource though.

 

Anytime man,
I will be here when / if you need!

 

Same goe for me Will.