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I tested the heater at 15.6 ohms. My wall outlet gives 121.1 volts and the cord varies from 110v -118 depending on contact. Is that enough variance to make it fail?
3 volts of drop to 118 volts is not bad, but 110 volts is to low.
You should supply a minimum of 115 volts to the heater.
In the electrical business,
Almost all devices are designed for a minimum of 115 volts.
The supply voltage at the electric panel is usually aroung 120 volts.
So when you wire something, you take the length of the circuit and the amp load to figure out what size wire you need to to keep the voltage drop under 5 volts from the panel to the device.
Any device running on low voltage will fail before one that has the proper voltage supplied to it.
You may also notice the cord gets warm, which is putting heat out where it is wasted instead of in your engine where you want it.
So apon further testing it pulled 105.7 this time. Length is 6 foot. Is it possible that it is the right cord and just worn out? I have used it a lot. Yes I noticed it was getting quite warm to the touch before it quit working. Is the heater plug inter cahngeable, so I can build a cord or must they be ordered as a unit? Also can one just order a heavy duty one? Thanks again!
Dave, I pulled the heater. It is 120v and 1000w. It tests at 15.6 ohms which you said was 800w or something. Does that mean the heater is going bad too? Thank you.
Ok here is the latest. Ignore the last post. I put in a new cord an heater. Under load with the same extension cord I am getting 120.1 where the cords meet. Seems likr problem solved. Thanks.
Yeah in my experience cords go more often than heaters. I have seen them snap right off at 40 below or colder and the contacts in the heater end are crap. I made a cord for the loader from 12ga. wire and bullet connectors cable tied on close by to prevent damage in the event of the dreaded "oops, i forgot to unplug". I have seen people driving down the highway dragging 20 or 30 feet of extension behind them. I've also picked up those extension cords with the locking female plugs, that had most of the block heater cord still attached.
Here is another issue. I put in the new heater, cord and tested the extension cord. All seem good. My antifreeze does not seem to be heating the block. I did refill all the way without running it obviously. Could the block still be empty of antifreeze after draining to change the heater? If so how to I get around this Catch 22? Thanks.
Now this GD thing will not start. Is it possible to have a bad heater? I just crawled under it and have 120 volts to the heater plug. Hard to get my leads on it but the heater only seems to be testing at about 5 ohms. Funny, before I installed it it tested good. 20 or something. Gonna pull it out later to see for sure as it is hard to test installed. What gives? I am so pissed right now. This is my work truck and I have no $ to take it to someone! Anyone want a deal on a truck right now? #%^**$#&*(())&^^###!!!!!!!!!
That is three examples, I have seen 600, 750, 900, 1200 and several other wattages over the years on top of the ones I listed above.
I was looking at mine the other day and how I tested mine was I took one white and one black # 12 AWG wire and jumped it from the femaile end of the cord to the outlet and AMP tested it it drew 8.7 amps!
Today I went out after it was pluged in for 1 1/2 hr and it was only a little worm by the block heater, I guess its a little sleepy!