Brake problem?
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Brake problem?
Yesterday I attempted to replace the front brake pads on my '05 F-250. The pads are Motorcraft Super Duty pads. First off, the clips were not the same as the ones on the old pads. The old clips were "reversed", definately one for each side while the new ones were all the same and had to be installed upside down on one side...they seemed to fit and work but just seemed odd. Second, after I got everything apart, it wouldn't go back together. I compressed the caliper as far as I could but the new pads wouldn't go on the rotor. How far should the caliper retract? I could still see the seals stricking above the face, is that normal or should it be replaced? I put the old pads and clips back on (they are still OK for awhile) until I could get some more info. Are there any tutorials or anything out there for this job? I have found many things for pre-'05, but nothing for '05 and up (which have different brakes).
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,082
Likes: 1
From: Illinois
I did all four wheels last summer. I have the same model year as you. I bought all Motorcraft pads from my local dealer and I don't remember having these issues. The metal clips came in a sealed plastic bag in the box with the pads. Everything fit right up without issues. I wonder if the dealer gave you the wrong set of pads?
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 296
Likes: 0
From: El Cajon, CA
I didn't have any trouble replacing the front or rear pads. Once I got the calipers off I used a small piece of 3/8" plywood & a "C" clamp. I put the plywood piece against the piston & then started turning the clamp until the plywood bottomed out. This gave me plenty of room to slide the caliper with pads over the rotor.
I used the Hawk Performance SuperDuty brake pads (Ferro-Carbon) #HB302P.700 for the fronts & # HB303P.685 for the rears.
I used the Hawk Performance SuperDuty brake pads (Ferro-Carbon) #HB302P.700 for the fronts & # HB303P.685 for the rears.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
If the calipers don't easily retract, it is time to pull the caliper and take it apart.
If the cause of the sticking is rust or corrosion on critical surfaces (e.g. on the piston) or the caliper itself, it is time to chuck them for a new one.
I am of the opinion that in any climate that experience corrosion from road salt, etc., calipers should NEVER be just pressed back in, but always rebuilt with new seals, etc. and inspected at the same time.
You did not say where you are --- are you in an area where there are issues with corrosion?
Or, replaced with QUALITY rebuilt calipers.
In your case, if you are not able to push it in... what makes you think the calipers will be free enough (not bind) to perform well?
Often a binding caliper will result in poor braking or uneven wear of your brand new set of pads, and sometimes, damage to the rotor at the same time.
Why not just pull them and rebuild them?
If the cause of the sticking is rust or corrosion on critical surfaces (e.g. on the piston) or the caliper itself, it is time to chuck them for a new one.
I am of the opinion that in any climate that experience corrosion from road salt, etc., calipers should NEVER be just pressed back in, but always rebuilt with new seals, etc. and inspected at the same time.
You did not say where you are --- are you in an area where there are issues with corrosion?
Or, replaced with QUALITY rebuilt calipers.
In your case, if you are not able to push it in... what makes you think the calipers will be free enough (not bind) to perform well?
Often a binding caliper will result in poor braking or uneven wear of your brand new set of pads, and sometimes, damage to the rotor at the same time.
Why not just pull them and rebuild them?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 25
From: Middle Tn.
If your in a high humid area flushing the brake system annually will save you some money and headaches. If in a high snow/salt area annually cleaning and lubing the slide pins is also a good idea.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 545
Likes: 0
From: Denison, Tx
I found if you remove the brake reservoir cover when you try to retract cylinder the brake fluid doesn't have to overcome the air trapped in the reservoir and cylinders move easier. Place a towel over the open top to keep fluid from splashing out under the hood.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
[quote=gearloose1;8544126]If the calipers don't easily retract, it is time to pull the caliper and take it apart.
Calipers retracted fine, no sticking that I could see. I'm just not sure how far is far enough.
If the cause of the sticking is rust or corrosion on critical surfaces (e.g. on the piston) or the caliper itself, it is time to chuck them for a new one.
I am of the opinion that in any climate that experience corrosion from road salt, etc., calipers should NEVER be just pressed back in, but always rebuilt with new seals, etc. and inspected at the same time.
You did not say where you are --- are you in an area where there are issues with corrosion?
I live in East Tn. We've had quite a bit of cold and snow this winter, but from what saw, the slides and everything looked fine.
I've also read somewhere that the '05 up will flush themselves, is this correct? What I mean by that is you can simply open the bleed screws and the fluid will begin to come out without vacuum or brake pedal depression.
Calipers retracted fine, no sticking that I could see. I'm just not sure how far is far enough.
If the cause of the sticking is rust or corrosion on critical surfaces (e.g. on the piston) or the caliper itself, it is time to chuck them for a new one.
I am of the opinion that in any climate that experience corrosion from road salt, etc., calipers should NEVER be just pressed back in, but always rebuilt with new seals, etc. and inspected at the same time.
You did not say where you are --- are you in an area where there are issues with corrosion?
I live in East Tn. We've had quite a bit of cold and snow this winter, but from what saw, the slides and everything looked fine.
I've also read somewhere that the '05 up will flush themselves, is this correct? What I mean by that is you can simply open the bleed screws and the fluid will begin to come out without vacuum or brake pedal depression.
Trending Topics
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
Hey, there is NO WAY to know if rust started in the pistons, bores, and the slides without a dis-assembly.
If you are doing dis-assembly, might as well do the rebuild as the incremental time is 10 minutes and the cost of a rebuild kit.
The brake system is suppose to self bleed... but the bug-a-boo is in the ABS unit.
If you are doing dis-assembly, might as well do the rebuild as the incremental time is 10 minutes and the cost of a rebuild kit.
The brake system is suppose to self bleed... but the bug-a-boo is in the ABS unit.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
Right on.
The only thing I have to add is salt / grime gets inside the pistons / bores, and it just doesn't clean without a removal and rebuild.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BaitGuru
1997 - 2006 Expedition & Navigator
4
Jan 20, 2015 06:53 PM
neilc88
Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
15
Dec 18, 2012 01:23 AM
lrgche
1997 - 2006 Expedition & Navigator
2
Mar 30, 2011 08:22 PM
