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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

cab-off again!!

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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 10:27 PM
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cab-off again!!

2005 psd 78000 miles going in for the second time in 3 weeks for bed plate leak. they are now talking short block replacement! all under warranty but just hate to see it torn down for a drip or two .
 
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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 12:10 AM
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I would ignore a drip or two.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 07:04 AM
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Problem is a drip or two could become much bigger and I emphasize "Could". It is a hard decision to have the engine pulled for a little drip. I am going through the same thing, drip on bell housing that as far as I can tell hasn't dripped off , at least not in the drive way. Pulling transmission today for possible rear main seal.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 07:41 AM
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Since they are talking short block, go buy a bottle of the engine oil stop leak. With a drip or two, it should stop it and contrary to popular belief, it will not stop up the oil filter and ruin the engine.

DSMMH
 
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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 09:54 AM
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DO NOT USE STOP LEAK. You want that stuff going through the oil side of your injectors?
 
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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 10:23 AM
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STOP LEAK? No Way!

I thought stop leak was reserved for the pepboys frequent flyer who knows nothing about vehicle maintenance or repair.

I worked as a mechanic for 15 years and saw the mess and damage that stop leaks (rad, P/S, engine) did. Unless it has changed in the last 10 years, I wouldn't pour into my stuff unless it meant me limping home from a trip or making it out of a stranded area.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 04:28 PM
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thanks for the input guess i'll let them tear it down again . just like to have things done right.it went back together ok the first time.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 09:22 PM
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My oil leak saga started when my truck had ~15k miles. The truck was in the dealer several times including replacing the IAC tubes, rear engine plate w/rear main seal (twice) and the oil leak continued to prevail.

Finally at 64k miles, the dealer put in a reman. short block and that fixed the leak for ~45k miles and now recently my oil leak has started again.

I'm not sure what to do at this point as I'm concerned about a leak that just started to wet the bellhousing to drips actually staining my driveway and what's next. The pisser is I thought I had a drip free engine for 45k miles and now it's leaking again from a second engine. I guess its' the nature of this engine design.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 09:24 PM
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I've never seen a diesel that didn't at least weep a little. If you ask me, this is one of those unnecessary claims that is a wast of time and money. I mean really, short block for an oil leak?
 
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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 09:33 PM
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also if they are going to go ahead and do the short block, dont let them lift the cab, they have to pull the motor anyways
 
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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by cartmanea
I've never seen a diesel that didn't at least weep a little. If you ask me, this is one of those unnecessary claims that is a wast of time and money. I mean really, short block for an oil leak?
I have... my dads '05 Duramax doesn't even "weep a little". I know I change the oil for him, and our 7.3 doesn't have any leaks.

The short block had to be replaced because the crank had too much end play that was out of spec >0.20" eating up rear mains. Sometimes what you consider is a miner problem may not be the root cause of the problem which could lead to more expensive repairs when the vehicle is out of warranty. Your choice!
 
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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by rollerstud98
also if they are going to go ahead and do the short block, dont let them lift the cab, they have to pull the motor anyways
I think the method used is up to the technician.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 10:54 PM
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no, if you tell them you dont want them to pull the cab then they shouldnt. most guys wont do it if they are pulling the motor anyways but i would just reiterate it.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by rollerstud98
no, if you tell them you dont want them to pull the cab then they shouldnt. most guys wont do it if they are pulling the motor anyways but i would just reiterate it.
I believe most shops pull the cab when replacing a motor. The other method is to literally remove the front portion of the truck, ie grill, radiator, etc...

Went by the Ford garage a couple of months ago to pick up a fuel filter and saw 3 trucks with the cabs lifted. It's deffietely not a pretty sight. Either way it's a damn shame with the cost of these trucks to have these type of issues.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 12:39 AM
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I have learned to live with a few leaks....If you want a leak free car go buy a japanese vehicle...they have the leak problem solved.

I periodically inspect my truck for new leaks and wipe as I go. I'm not sure what you guys expect from a badly designed, flaw filled engine?

Granted the only leaks I really have is a collection of a few drips at the bellhousing and a little bit of oil on the sides of the heads...not sure what it is from but I realized it is just not worth going insane over...just live with it or sell your truck and get a TOYOTA.
 
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