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Any of you guys running a 428 in your trucks? I'm starting the build on mine and from I learned is they are real torque monsters! I have a scat crank on it's way and the block soon. My new( last summer) 390 is getting torn down and most aftermarket parts like edelbrock intake,rebuilt heads,headers,crane electronic ignition and other stuff is going into the 428. From those who have one how do you like them?
Crank is a standard 3.98 stroke I got new for $350. Heads are a d2teaa rebuilt within a year but standard valves. Thinking about going to cj valves and doing some gasket match porting. Do you run something different?
Sometimes threads get moved to an area where you'll get better responses. Usually, they note the move. You'll be better off here. Good luck with your project.
You'll definately want CJ valves and a pocket port. The intake ports are ok as is, and certainly do not touch the port floor. If anything you want to match the gasket roof and short side.
I have factory aluminum heads, but have ran C8AE-6090-J cobra jet heads and C5AE big F medium risers in the other engines.
Cj valves? I asked about these with a local head shop and he said there wouldn't be to much of a gain and if I did any valves I should do the exhaust only due to bigger intake valves makes more power at higher rpm, not ideal for a truck motor. I don't know what do u think? I'm very curious on the head porting but I dont know what your refering to when you say short side. Can you explain more on where and benefits and downfalls of doing the wrong spots..
Sounds like you need a better machine shop then...
2.09 Intakes and 1.66 exhaust valves, very common sizes with 3/8th stem.
As for "pocket porting" this is where the bowls are blended into the newly cut valve seats. Otherwise after the cutting there is a nasty ridge.
Short side radius and short turn are the nearly 90 degree turn the port makes into the bowl.
For a mild build, just get the CJ valves and blend the bowls to match and do not worry about gasket matching or port work.
It's more important to match the camshaft to the engine "receipe". If the cam is too small you'll hate life, if the cam is too big same deal, hatin' life.
With a small cam and small valves, but larger cubic inches the engine will choke out at like 4000/4500 RPM.
I see you have 44 inch tires, what gears are you running wth them?
for cam shaft I run a crane cam 343941Crane PowerMax Camshafts Camshaft - Hydraulic Flat Tappet - Advertised Duration 272 - 284 - Lift .533 - .563 - Ford - Big Block FE. Fits many Fords and Mercurys from 1957 to 1977. |...
Im planning on swapping this into my 428. Is this going to be fine? My 390 still has good power but it tends to be at the higher rpms when it gets going good and pulls real good on steep hills in 3rd. As far as gears I only run 4:10's. It seems to run not to bad but I do notice it runs at a lower rpm than is probably best as it tends to be at 2800 rpm while driving. My plans are 5:13's with the engine build to be done together. I figure I can bump up the rpm and try to get in the optimum power range. One thing I'm confused on is piston choice though.I think i really need to start taking my 390 apart soon so i can get work done on the heads and get the cc figured out so i can figure out what piston i want for my compression. Im thinking 10:1 and lower is ideal! I probably will just go ahead and do the cj valves then if it can get some better flow and benefit... when I get a grind for the new valves i guess i'll need hardened seats as well. I was under the impression d2teaa heads are already hardened but wont be after a grind
'73, I have a bigger cam than the one you picked in my 390 powered 2wd, and I pull trailers with it. I am refering to the 343801 cam, with 222/232 degrees @ 050, and something like .548/580 lift. My 2wd has 3.5 gears and 33 inch tires out back, with a stock convertor in the auto tranny. The Idle is a bit choppy, but nothing you can't live with just fine, and with the bigger displacement, your idle will be smoother than mine. The D2 heads will be just fine, but you need to find a machine shop that knows what they are doing. The bigger valves will definately help. You don't have to just step up to a 2.09/1.65 combo. The intakes have LOTS of room how about a 2.195/1.65 valve combo ? It fits, the intakes are available as a standard size from a 427MR, the exhausts are 428CJ size. The D2 heads WILL need hard exhaust seats, the D2s have induction hardening on the factory seats, but that goes away with grinding, and you'll have to do some cutting for the big valves. You can also grind out the little lump that hangs down into two of the intake ports. If you grind them to the same rectangle size as the others, you will be left with a small round hole in the roof of the port. That won't cause you any problems, but you do need to remember to put some thread sealant on the bolt that goes above it. I use studs for the rockers, with a dab of sealant on that one. Enjoy. DinosaurFan
. The bigger valves will definately help. You don't have to just step up to a 2.09/1.65 combo. The intakes have LOTS of room how about a 2.195/1.65 valve combo ?
It's the exhausts that need more help than the intake. And with a small cam, huge valves will only make things more negative.
Why have a dual pattern cam that favors the exhaust only to hamper it with large intake valves? Might as well get a single pattern cam then.
The 2.09/ 1.65 is ideal. A 2.09/ 1.72 is pretty good, but may need bore reliefs.
You need to concentrate on DYNAMIC compression ratio rather than static.
So as you see, the whole of the parts need to work as a package. The pistons, valves and cam all work as a unit. If one is out of whack, it'll make you want to rip your hair out.