jeez i dont know all that info on my build yet. It even calculates it in with head gasket bore diameter??? I have a hard time with these macine shops sometimes they sound like they know what they are talking about but from the questions im asking you guys seem to say its general knowledge of a fe like the cj valves and such. I cant see why the one shop didnt know if they could even do it...The issue with my intake not fitting due to my heads being milled I was the one who suggested the idea and they didnt really understand why it wouldnt fit...I dont do this for a living but if i did im sure i's have figured that one out like i did!

 

I have a 428 in my 73 f250 4x4. It runs very well. It pulled cj numbers on the dyno. I wish I had aluminum heads. Did get try-headers and use the D.U.I distributor. That is one of my best moves. Running a smaller cam than everyone here. In the process of changing from 750 edelbrock to the 670 Holly avenger. I also used the huge 8 qt industrial oil pan and it fit perfect. I also had the intack and headers HPC coated. I also changed from a np435 to c6. still out on that. I run 4:10 gears. I want to put my Edelbrock cross ram on but hate to lose the D.U.I. Same goes for the edelbrock 6-pack I picked up.

 

Pissed off! The guy finally got off his *** and pulled the block out of storage and it's cracked and non repairably JUNK. Now I'm on the hunt to find another block. I can still make the 410 but I'd prefer 428. Buddy says he has some .040 over 410 pistons though for $50 for the set so I could make a 418...
Just trying to figure out which 390 blocks can be bored to 428 as well

 

The early 390 hi-po blocks could be bored .80" over (I've done it with a 1961 375 hp block) and a few of the service blocks late in the program could too. But normally a 390 block will not go .080" over.

 

Ok so I phoned my original guy on some cj pistons who lives a ferry ride away knowing that he was big into the fe's. Asked him if he had any blocks and he has 3!!! 2 standard bores 1 .030 over bore all with new cam bearings. He says all blocks are hot tanked mag checked and good to go. He wants $900 for each one. I might still have my 428. I'm thinking I want the .030 one because he had them bored to match a set of 428 cj cast .030 pistons he has for another $150. $1050 is close to what I would of paid for my 200$ block after I bored it, bought cam bearings and had them installed,hot tanked, and mag tested. They're all standard 428 no cobra jet but no biggy...

 

'73, I have been following some of your build thoughts, and what pieces you have now. May I suggest you need to find a better machine shop ? I have several questions. What makes your shop think the block's crack can't be fixed ? If they think the block is junk, give them scrap weight price for it, then find some one else to fix it. Is this the same shop that 'didn't know' if they could fit a 2.09/1.65 valve set in you D2 heads ? Even if one isn't familiar with FEs, that isn't hard to figure out what fits. Takes about 30 seconds to measure if there is room. Does the shop you have been dealing with not know how ? Why was your intake milled ? Was that your idea, or the shop's ? Thats the wrong way to do things. If, instead, one mills the intake face of the cylinderheads, proper fit can be achieved and standard intakes will still fit. This would leave you the option trying a better dual plane, like the RPM or the BlueThunder MR. If you have to mill it to fit, you certainly aren't going to borrow one of MY intakes to see how it runs. Now, this truck of yours.....you are going to run headers, aren't you ? If not, all of this talk of cams, bigger valves, and intakes is largely an academic exercise. DinosaurFan

 

Where is the block cracked? An intelligent machine shop can do wonders these days with cracks and windowed blocks.

And it is Reverse 105 390 blocks that are usually the blocks ( say 1 in 20) that can go..080 over. The early 390 blocks are notorious for thin walls with many not even able to go .040 over. The 63 blocks can be hit and miss with all the core changes for the 406 and 427 blocks.

Josh

 

This is not the shop that didnt know if the cj valves fit he seem to know fe's quite well but also seems to talk alot of bull. The crack was said to of been in the main bearing web or something. Anyways for all I know he didnt even have the block and told me this so he didnt look like an idiot after finally taking a month to clear out his shed of BLOCKS!! The guys machine shop is in his back yard and he doesnt go a day without wearing his jogging pants. Ive already heard horror stories of engines that blew up at the race track from this guy through a friend who is on a sprint car crew in town here and seems to know the guy. He told me get the block if its a good deal but DONT let him do any of the machining. My plan was to buy it then tell him I was going to do all the oil mods then talk about boring and other work later and take it elsewhere...The other thing that pissed me off is the first time going out to his shop to what I thought was going to pick up the block in my truck I got pulled over by the cops at the end of his driveway and got a vehicle safety inspection and a mandatory tow on the spot with plates takin away just for being to big. Double kick to the nuts and he didnt have the block out of storage he just thought i was coming by for a bull@#$# and talk engines.
As far as exhaust I will be running headers and a H pipe just past the collector.
I'm going to have to go with this already done block from Vancouver. The guy said he'd even meet me on the other side from the 1 1/2 hour ferry ride and I could walk on the boat not having to pay the $60 each way for a vehicle then just throw it on a dolly and take the next boat back. Alot of effort!
$1050 for a fully ready to go block with pistons sound pretty reasonable to me if everything is legit.

 

I checked my block for the reverse 105 under the head,, front of engine, driver side from what i learnt tonite actually ,and in the rain and dark checked my block and it has a 352 with a 85 above it. This stuff is starting to make me go nuts now its all I have on my mind these days...Soo much info, $,and headaches for a new motor when my 390 I have now is brand new and pretty decent!!! Ah why do I do it I ask?
Cause I can! And I want the best.
Thanks for your helps guys

 

I just wonder why you're so fixated on a "428"? You'd never know the difference between a 416 and a 428 with the rest being equal. And if you hadn't bought that 3.98 crank, which will still have the large diameter, narrow rod bearing size, you could have bought one of Barry's 445 stroker kits, used your 390 block, and had NEW forged pistons, much better rods, rings, and the better small-diameter, wide rod journals, with the whole kit under $2000, everything is already thought out and fits together correctly, and probably be done for less bux than you're going to have in the piecemeal "428"- and the stroker 445 would eat the 428 for lunch in your truck. Plus you could sell your 390 internals as a kit to the next guy that wants to convert his 360- or swap him, with bux in your favor, and fresh bore his 360 block and recycle the 360 guts

 

hey there fellas i want to know if its possible to make a cj(simular to 73's build )build with a 360 since its just a destroked 390..

 

Not really, a 360/390 has a 4.05" bore and .060 over only gives you 4.11" bore. The CJ had a 4.13" bore along with it's 3.98" stroke. The CJ also had different heads, intake, carb and exhaust manifolds from any 360/390.

 

Dino I want the 428 because it really won't cost me much more and I'd kick myself if I didn't just do it! I'm already half there with the crank I might as well keep going with the block and pistons. Either engine will need balancing it may as well be the .030 over 428. I do like the FE 428 cool factor of having one of these rare motors for a overly built unique truck to match. When I get determined on something there's no stopping me..

 

except for maybe a cracked block, or a bull*****ting old man.

 

sorry I reffered to Dino and I meant MeanGene