Anybody know something that will remove undercoating? I hate it and would like to strip my frame down and POR 15 it.

 

Ive done a few times and the best way for me was to heat it up with a heat lamp or something like that. I found a torch takes to long and doesnt work as well. But take and put a heat lamp on the back side of what your removing and heat her up. Closer the better. Took about eight minutes for it to soften up so i could scrape it off.

But that leaves quite a mess..

The other way thats worked best for me is a needle scaler, zips that crap right off.

 

wire wheel on an angle grinder...just watch what you use it on..or touch...can take off skin just as well.

 

This worked great on my truck I just did this last week. Took approximately 30 minutes to remove all the undercoating from my cab. The undercoating must be hard as on our older cars. It will not work on soft undercoating. I set the air to 90 psi and had the tool set to the lowest setting. I had no damages with some minor paint chipping however you would still have to sand when repainting.

Here is a link to some else doing this this where I got the idea
YouTube - Needle Gun used on undercoating

and here is a link to Harbor freight where I bought my scaler
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

 

The scaler looks like it works good. Harbor frieght isnt too far from me either. Thanks for all the replies. We just got a killer snow storm and I dont have a garage so it may be awhile before i work on it now.

 

I used a propane torch and a putty knife. Then finished off what remained with a wire wheel. I used Rustoleum's brush-on Rust Destroyer primer and then two coats of gloss black.

If using an open flame, let's be mindful of wiring, fuel lines, insulation, etc or else "Fire It Up" may have a whole new meaning.

HIO Silver
73 F100 4x4, 390FE, NP435, NP203, +4 on 35s

 

I did my SN95 to get it ready for painting. Get yourself a real heat gun... not your old ladies hair dryer. You can get them for cheap money and while your at it, get a 1"-1 1/2" puddy knife. No it's not easy nor is it fast, but it works. Simply attack the area you want to clean and heat it with the gun. You can only do a 6x6 inch square at a time. When the UC is good and soft "gently" scrape it with the knife. Use a short angle of attack. Don't just start stabbing at it hoping it wiil surrender and fall off.
It took me about 2 hrs to do one rear wheel well. Put on some tunes, get a thirty pack and get into the job. After a majority of the coating has been removed move on to the power tool. I used a 3/8 drill and a wire wheel to remove the residual coating. Get a good wire wheel...3"
worked great for me. You can use a right angle drill too. It took off only
the coating and left the primer behind. The wheel well was so smooth I could have waxed it. Yes, the job sucks. But if you want it to come out right, take your time. It's worth it in the long run. As far as solvents go..
forget carb cleaner, brake cleaner, gas, etc. I just as soon ruin my brain and liver with beer. Good luck...

 

An angle grinder + wire wheel + dust mask has worked well for me. I understand a steam cleaner works fast and well also... but never tried it.

 

This is what I've been using to take off the undercoating on the bed I'm restoring. It works very well. It's not quick (especially in all the crevices) but it leaves a nice finish!

-Brad