!?!?! Stancor ?!?!?
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,791
Likes: 99
From: Ashland City, TN
I was being slightly over technical on the LED.
Jay, fueses dont blow fast enough to stop an LED burn out. Just takes a breif over voltage to screw them up.
Glad you got the voltage figured out. its supposed to be 40 amps, 20 amps per leg on the GPR.
The GPR should stay on for 2 minutes if the truck is cold or warm
Are you sure you ordered the right Stancore?
What was the part number you ordered?
802-586-902
SPNO 12VDC
Mouser electronics.
Jay, fueses dont blow fast enough to stop an LED burn out. Just takes a breif over voltage to screw them up.
Glad you got the voltage figured out. its supposed to be 40 amps, 20 amps per leg on the GPR.
The GPR should stay on for 2 minutes if the truck is cold or warm
Are you sure you ordered the right Stancore?
What was the part number you ordered?
802-586-902
SPNO 12VDC
Mouser electronics.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Gardnerville, NV
I was being slightly over technical on the LED.
Jay, fueses dont blow fast enough to stop an LED burn out. Just takes a breif over voltage to screw them up.
Glad you got the voltage figured out. its supposed to be 40 amps, 20 amps per leg on the GPR.
The GPR should stay on for 2 minutes if the truck is cold or warm
Are you sure you ordered the right Stancore?
What was the part number you ordered?
802-586-902
SPNO 12VDC
Mouser electronics.
Jay, fueses dont blow fast enough to stop an LED burn out. Just takes a breif over voltage to screw them up.
Glad you got the voltage figured out. its supposed to be 40 amps, 20 amps per leg on the GPR.
The GPR should stay on for 2 minutes if the truck is cold or warm
Are you sure you ordered the right Stancore?
What was the part number you ordered?
802-586-902
SPNO 12VDC
Mouser electronics.
Go Bills !
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,778
Likes: 65
From: Buffalo, NY
Just my experience and input.
.
Replaced three Napa's in one year.. Junk. (one from 'mybad' of over tightened of large terminal causing the cheap plastic to crack)
Ordered 586-902 from Mouser.. And installed.
Ran to radio shack and bought 12v non resistor red LED. #276-270 (#276-271 is green)
LED mounted in dash. One LED wire to Ground under dash. The other LED wire went through firewall to inline fuse(2amp to protect the wire) to Large Terminal (glowplug side) of the stancor. I didn't even know that a LED mod existed.(still never looked for the mod and how it was wired) I was just frustrated with the cheap relays and wanted to see how the relay behaves a year or so ago.
Not a single hiccup sense then.. I love this mod.. And I feel better seeing that the GPR is activated and knowing that i have a hearty relay under there.. I doubt i will ever touch it again.
I don't understand how yours will work only with the stock relay if you wired yours like mine. If my battery is a little low. The LED will be dimmer but still light up. I thought it would be pointless to hook up LED on the coil side of the relay.. I want to see if the relay is on(or not) and not weather or not it is supposed to be on(or not)
Not sure if it will help or not.. Just my penny on how i did my LED in conjunction with the stancor.
.
Replaced three Napa's in one year.. Junk. (one from 'mybad' of over tightened of large terminal causing the cheap plastic to crack)
Ordered 586-902 from Mouser.. And installed.
Ran to radio shack and bought 12v non resistor red LED. #276-270 (#276-271 is green)
LED mounted in dash. One LED wire to Ground under dash. The other LED wire went through firewall to inline fuse(2amp to protect the wire) to Large Terminal (glowplug side) of the stancor. I didn't even know that a LED mod existed.(still never looked for the mod and how it was wired) I was just frustrated with the cheap relays and wanted to see how the relay behaves a year or so ago.
Not a single hiccup sense then.. I love this mod.. And I feel better seeing that the GPR is activated and knowing that i have a hearty relay under there.. I doubt i will ever touch it again.
I don't understand how yours will work only with the stock relay if you wired yours like mine. If my battery is a little low. The LED will be dimmer but still light up. I thought it would be pointless to hook up LED on the coil side of the relay.. I want to see if the relay is on(or not) and not weather or not it is supposed to be on(or not)
Not sure if it will help or not.. Just my penny on how i did my LED in conjunction with the stancor.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
Have a look:
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz
EDIT: Here's more from http://www.seattlerobotics.org/encod...97/basics.html
An LED (Light Emitting Diode) is a semiconductor that emits light energy when a current flows through it. Current will only flow one direction, just like a regular diode. There are a few things you need to know about an LED before you use one. First, and most importantly, is that an LED has very low internal resistance. This means that left to itself, an LED will pass so much current that it will burn up. They require an external resistor to limit the current.
Most LED's have a current rating, which determines the size of the resistor you will need. The current rating tells you what the maximum allowable current for the part is. In general, the higher the current, the brighter the LED.
Most LED's seem to handle at least 15mA. If you are using a 5 volt circuit, then Ohms law tells you what resistor value to use. R = V / I, so R = 5v / .015A = 333 ohms.
Most LED's have a current rating, which determines the size of the resistor you will need. The current rating tells you what the maximum allowable current for the part is. In general, the higher the current, the brighter the LED.
Most LED's seem to handle at least 15mA. If you are using a 5 volt circuit, then Ohms law tells you what resistor value to use. R = V / I, so R = 5v / .015A = 333 ohms.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Gardnerville, NV
Just my experience and input.
.
Replaced three Napa's in one year.. Junk. (one from 'mybad' of over tightened of large terminal causing the cheap plastic to crack)
Ordered 586-902 from Mouser.. And installed.
Ran to radio shack and bought 12v non resistor red LED. #276-270 (#276-271 is green)
LED mounted in dash. One LED wire to Ground under dash. The other LED wire went through firewall to inline fuse(2amp to protect the wire) to Large Terminal (glowplug side) of the stancor. I didn't even know that a LED mod existed.(still never looked for the mod and how it was wired) I was just frustrated with the cheap relays and wanted to see how the relay behaves a year or so ago.
Not a single hiccup sense then.. I love this mod.. And I feel better seeing that the GPR is activated and knowing that i have a hearty relay under there.. I doubt i will ever touch it again.
I don't understand how yours will work only with the stock relay if you wired yours like mine. If my battery is a little low. The LED will be dimmer but still light up. I thought it would be pointless to hook up LED on the coil side of the relay.. I want to see if the relay is on(or not) and not weather or not it is supposed to be on(or not)
Not sure if it will help or not.. Just my penny on how i did my LED in conjunction with the stancor.
.
Replaced three Napa's in one year.. Junk. (one from 'mybad' of over tightened of large terminal causing the cheap plastic to crack)
Ordered 586-902 from Mouser.. And installed.
Ran to radio shack and bought 12v non resistor red LED. #276-270 (#276-271 is green)
LED mounted in dash. One LED wire to Ground under dash. The other LED wire went through firewall to inline fuse(2amp to protect the wire) to Large Terminal (glowplug side) of the stancor. I didn't even know that a LED mod existed.(still never looked for the mod and how it was wired) I was just frustrated with the cheap relays and wanted to see how the relay behaves a year or so ago.
Not a single hiccup sense then.. I love this mod.. And I feel better seeing that the GPR is activated and knowing that i have a hearty relay under there.. I doubt i will ever touch it again.
I don't understand how yours will work only with the stock relay if you wired yours like mine. If my battery is a little low. The LED will be dimmer but still light up. I thought it would be pointless to hook up LED on the coil side of the relay.. I want to see if the relay is on(or not) and not weather or not it is supposed to be on(or not)
Not sure if it will help or not.. Just my penny on how i did my LED in conjunction with the stancor.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,791
Likes: 99
From: Ashland City, TN
Could be possible to have a bad one.
Send that sucker back.
You should be able to test it with an ohm meter.
Send that sucker back.
You should be able to test it with an ohm meter.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,544
Likes: 4
From: Suffolk, VA
I mean nothing by this, and hope I don't insult your intelligence, but this just about sounds like you've wired the LED light to the AIH relay.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Gardnerville, NV
I did a bench test again this morning, I checked the voltage of my test battery (12 volts) and the Stancor would not work. I then hooked up a battery charger on a 2amp charge and tried it again. It worked with the battery charger hooked to the battery. The voltage with the charger attached reads 14 volts. I'm assuming that it takes slightly more than 12 volts to activate the Stancor.
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