There should be a gasket between the EGR and intake plenum and all needs to be flush and tight. If not, it creates an intake leak.

 

Yup gasket is there and added some grey RTV - the EGR is now tighter than a bulls butt in a fly season. Double checked everything else - the engine is still running extremely high. I did not touch the distributor, simply put in new plugs. What am I missing ?

 

I'm sure you have, but just to double check, have you checked that it's not something simple and you don't have any binding with the throttle cable/gas pedal?

 

I thought the same thing - disconnected the TPS and unhooked the throttle cable - still mad rpms :/ its loud as hell so not having any luck listenning for a hiss

 

Unfortunately, I'm not very well versed in EFI, so my help stops at vacuum leaks and cracked gaskets.

However, you did just have everything apart, so it must be something you removed/touched, etc. Did you use all fresh gaskets when you put the intake back on? Check to be sure all the sensors were plugged back in?

 

Thank goodness for the help of people like you and others that replied - noticed the rubbed metal marks on the twisted upper intake support stand were 4mm off from where it sat the past 20 years. Loosened, adjusted and retightenened the bolts - runs like a dream. Now hoping no damage was done in brief 2-3 periods of 4k rpm air suction madness.

Thanks again !!!!!





Before





After - the last 2 rockers had a crapton of rust and set in varnish, didnt come off very well

 

Quick note - if you want your engine internals to shine like the Cylinder 2 rockers then mix 2 quartz of full strength purple power with Heavy Duty Engine Degreaser aerosol from the can and watch the "scrubbing bubbles" action. Took about 2 mins to eat the varnish and the metal container it was in

 

Very nice! Glad to hear it.
I'm glad you got the help you needed. I know I've learned just about everything I know from the willingness of people on the forums to share and help. Saved a fortune too! So it's great to give back.

The best you can do now is just go through a regular break in procedure for the lifters. Can't change the fact that the engine revved up, so just move forward.

I've seen much worse sludge than that, but that's pretty dirty. Nice job on cleaning it up.
My brother's Jeep 4.0 blew, and when we lifted the valve cover off, it looked like it was filled with brownie mix that had cooked in place. 1/2" deep in places!

 

Well..I happen to have a 4.0L Jeep - going to get the mechanic boroscope to see under the cover. On a side note - already did the 2k (guessing) RPM for 20 mins run. What else do I need to do to break in the new lifters? I did add a drop of oil mixed with MMO into each and compressed it by hand a few times before caking the outside in break in lube before installing them.

 

I think that's about it. It just mates the lifters to the cam lobes.

I'm not sure what happened to my brother's jeep. He bought it used and it must've had some terribly poor maintenance because those are good engines.

Best of luck with your engine now. Be nice to get all that stuff cleaned out and have it all shiny inside again.

 

thank you again for your help - could not have done it without you guys, thanks all again !

 

"...it looked like it was filled with brownie mix that had cooked in place. 1/2" deep in places!"

Sounds like it spent most of it's life as a commute vehicle...cold starts and short trips.

 

One reason I like to get my engines out on the open road occasionally at 70 - 80 mph for a few hours.

 

Any update? I've got a slight tick and I suspect it's the lifters. How's your truck running since your overhaul?

Glenn

 

It runs smooth as butter, no more ticks, I am dropping oil pan today to seal a leak then just need to figure out whats up with excessive shake in the shifter stick, guessing motor mounts but they dont look bad.