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77 f100, w/ps, and 351 cleveland.
i have to constantly work the steering wheel to keep it between the lines. while it was parked with the engine off, i had my wife work the steering wheel back and forth while i looked for worn steering parts. i didn't see anything move.
should i try it with the engine running?
what are the usual causes for play in the steering wheel?
this is my first truck and i love it. it's exactly what i was looking when i found it. i want to fix her up real good.
ya'll gonna get tired of seeing me round here.
congratulations. Once you own one Ford truck you'll find that you want another. The steering play is probably in the steering box itself. Fortunately, mine is still good but this is a common item that goes. Be glad you don't own a Plymouth - they are so bad you're all over the road.
There is another post just below on where to buy good rebuilt steering boxes or just to buy a new one. I'd wait to see the advice from those who've been through this.
Before buying another steering gear box, try adjusting the box first. There is a screw on the top of the box somewhere that moves up and down. Tighten that screw down some and then try driving and see if that helps out first. No need in spending money on a part you may not need.
The screw is on top of the box. It will have a bolt on it, just loosen the bolt and theres a place for a flathead screwdriver on top of the screw so turn the screw either way and then while holding the screw with the screwdriver tighten the bolt. If it gets worse then turn the screw the other way and try it it.
To adjust the steering box to get rid of the slop, loosen the 5/8" nut on top, while holding with a wrench turn the screw clockwise(as seen from the top)until it bottoms, then back off about 1/8 of a turn. Tighten the nut while holding the adjustment on the screw. Make sure after this is done, to test in a safe place to make sure it's not overly tight or binding, if it is, then back it off another 1/8 of a turn until the steering is normal. This won't get rid of all the slop, but it will make a noticable difference. A couple of other things to check that will cause wander are shot tie rod ends, bad bushings, loose front wheel bearings and/or bad ball joints. Hope this helps put Ya on the "straight" line down the road! Chuck P.
get used to it theres not much you can do except replace parts and adjust steering box .in my 79 i have replaced every single conponent and it still wanders a little and has a little slop . it was a characteristic of the older ford trucks .although in mine replacing every thing really helped its not perfect and was extremely expensive .you also might want to check all the areas from the steering colunm to the box if it is a 4x4 youll probally have cv type shaft with splines or possibly rubber coupler. 2 wheel drive usually had the rubber coupler and make sure its still intact or adjusted correctly . good luck (i love the old fords but... sometimes i want to drive it off a cliff, then i come to the realization that i have almost enough money in it i could have got a new one.
this is what i done. after replacing the box.
i came across an old ford trucking magazine
with an little article written by an engineer
who had the same prob. The factory box has
no lower bearing(acording to him it has 2 seals)
Anyway he built a bracket that attached to the
frame and attached to it a 3/8" swivel rod end.
the swivel eye portion attached to the lower
portion of the box. drill a hole and tap it
to 3/8" nc. this keeps the shaft from moving
side to side but does allow it to rotate via
the rod end. It works!!!!. Next time your under
the truck keep a close eye on the shaft and move
the steering from above the box and you will see
side to side movement. Now the only slack i have
is in the steering column(i.e. i have tilt and
someone just posted something about it in response to you) Good luck
My advise is to go ahead and rebuild the whole thing. Just did mine for about $200 in parts which included urethane bushings, kingpins with metal bushings, and a steering gear box rebuild.
Everything I did is user serviceable with the exception of the alignment, and installing the kingpin bushings ($35.00 at local auto shop). There is one other item which you will run across in the steering gear box. There is a special lock nut on one of the shafts which requires a special Ford Tool which no one has. Leave it alone unless it is damaged. Just replace the rings and seals etc. I have noticed a marked improvement in the problem you describe and I haven't even replaced my tie rod ends yet. I am going to build the bracket for the bottom of the gear box that was described in a previous post. Though I had noticed the obvious misengineered gearbox mounting, I hadn't thought to do anything about it till now. I think it's a great idea because the box's mountings are way to high on the shaft. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.
Before you try the shotgun approach, try some more troubleshooting. With someone rocking the wheel crawl under the truck to look for anything that may be looses. Check the tierod ends on the center drag link, if they're loose you'll have to get a new center drag link. Make sure there is no play where the steering box mounts to the frame, if so tighten it or replace any missing/damaged bolts (there should be 3 of them). Look under the master cylinder where the column mounts to the box to see if there's play at the steering coupler (the big round fibre washer). Also if it has power steering the engine should be running to adjust the steering box. Gradually tighten the adjuster on the steering box until the tires move when the wheel is turned.
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