Considering adding AIR BAGS to my 08 F250 4dr 6.4L. I pull a 35ft 5th wheels and am over my gvrw, but well under the gcw. I have a bit of a squat to say the least. I saw another F250 at the track that pulls a 41ft 5th wheels that is considerably heavier than mine, yet he has no squat due to the rear air bags he had installed.

Any comments/suggestions on bag type, use, pros/cons would be appreciated.


tks

 

Whenever you start to run OVER the Ford recommended weights, you become liable. Just because you can PULL it doesn't mean you can STOP it!

 

you must have MISSED the part in my post that said i was well under the gcw - (for stopping?!?!).

 

Being over your GVW makes it a warranty issue, not that the dealers ever check or would have a way to know. Airbags work well to bring things back into level, but I would still encourage you to see what weight you actually have on your front axle. You can level to the eye and still be light on your steer axle. I am guessing there is no way to shift significant weight in your fiver to the rear.

I run air bags on all my trucks. The bags for many trucks now are "no-drill" and you can install many of then without even taking off the wheels or jacking up the truck. You do have check the air pressure routinely as they will bleed down over time. Air bags are probably a simpler options than adding overload springs.

The issue of stopping is important and I am sure you have a good brake controller.

Good luck,

Steve

 

Yes there is. it is a "toy hauler", so rear loading i'm assuming will reduce the pin weight? i dont know....have not tried since it is brand new but plan to load it up and go scale it to see loaded and unloaded this weekend.

thanks

 

Moving weight to the rear will reduce you pin weight. Fivers usually run a little heavier on the pin to limit porpoising. It might be reasonable to shoot for 15% on your pin. I would not encourage anyone to run a super light pin as I think that might lead to handling problems.

Toy haulers are kind of unique in terms of weight as their front to rear can change so much with load. Some years ago Travel Supreme introduced a toy hauler motor home and used to display it at shows with a small car in the rear. That was until someone tried to drive it that way and discovered it was an impossible handler and they had to change their recommendations. True story! Weight does make a difference.

Steve

 

GCWVR has nothign to do with stopping. Only GVWR does.

Since your trailer has brakes, it stops itself. Pin weight, however is stopped by your truck.

as far as breaking the GVWR...don't.

I'm of the opinion that a 5.4L Super Duty can pull the full 17,200# (26,000 - 8,800)trailer depending on the trip. Pin weight is limited by the GVWR of the pickup, so depending on the configuration, the trailer can't be as heavy.

 

The weight thing keeps coming up and can be confusing. The only thing Ford guarantees is the truck can stop its GVWR. It puts that in writing in its booklet on towing. It says its Combined weight is the total weight their truck can move down the road , not stop. If a truck can not stop its GVWR, that is a liability issue for the truck builder.

Ford does not care how much you actually strap on. They do care about warranty coverage and things may break or be more highly stressed with more weight. That is just logical. Some motor home chassis manufacturers now insist coaches be weighed, before they will cover repairs under warranty. So far, to the best of my knowledge, truck manufacturers are not doing that.

The trailer brakes are certified to stop the weight of the trailer, that is a liability issue for the trailer maker.

The brake controller is certified to put out amperage adequate to activate the brakes for a given number of axles so that is also an issue.

If you are towing a trailer, the hitch and the ball also have weight ratings stamped on them and that is a liability issue.

As I have posted on this before, everyone knows I take a conservative approach. I only encourage everyone to be thoughtful and consider all the variables. I have worked behind the scenes in legal cases as an advisor on weight issues in the past and in court it is not whether you are right or wrong, it is how you can be made to appear. Civil cases often deviate widely from the criminal law and how the weight rating come into play in criminal cases depends on state law. Most often issues of weight appear to occur in cases with commercial carriers. Cases involving private owners appear to be rare.

I don't think I am arguing with anyone here. I am just trying to expand on the variables.

Steve

 

jpws back to your original post, yes air bags will help the squat and it will also make a big difference in the ride. I use 5K bags made by Air-Lift with a on board compressor. When your truck squats it takes weight off the front axle and transfers it to the rear so the bags also helps to keep the load balanced front to rear. They also help with the bounce that you can experience when on rough roads pulling the trailer. After having them I wouldn't pull a heavy trailer without them.
Whats nice about the on board compressor is I can back under the trailer without air in the bags and then pump them up to 40 lbs before lowering the trailer on to the truck, after lowering they are at 65 lbs where I run them while pulling.

Denny

 

Subscribing...but would like to add one item that was mentioned earlier. I picked up a brochure this weekend on Raptor 5th wheels.

They are grossly under estimating there hitch wt. I beleive you need to get your caluator out and use the 15% of trailer wt method as a starting point.

 

i have the double convulated style. i love them & you should definitly get the on board air compressor.

 

Or, if you are "frugal" as I am you will carry a captive air tank to refill the bags. Air
bags use very little air volume and a small air tank will give many refills. Plus, my
Firestone bags don't leak down even after many months of use. Count me as a big
bag fan.

 

I installed a set of Air-Lift bags on a previously owned truck and was well pleased with their performance. You can tweak the air pressure to perfectly level out your load. The kit came with all required brackets, bolts, etc. and was an easy install.

 

I’m the "frugal" type; we have a 12v compressor (only takes a couple minutes per side) that you can set the pressure on.<O</O
I set it to 40 lbs, pump up one side auto shut down, them pump up the other.
<O</O
Firestone air bags are the #2 (tied for #1 “Harpooned” the tank) upgrade so far!
Had them for 3 years no leaks, EASY CHEEP DIY

ab

 

I have a short bed F-350 that I use to pull a 31 gooseneck and a 38 Weekend Warrior. With the gooseneck I hardly ever have to air up my bags because axles are center better under trailer . With the toybox I always need to air up when hauling with no toys . With 150 gals water and food and fuel pin weight is about 3200# . When loaded with jeep and two dirt bikes pin weight drops to 2300#. You should take the time and do a test run with your rig loaded with every thing you will have in it , food,water,fuel in both tanks,toys,gear,camp chairs , ice chests, all people in truck , fuel in truck , Then go scale it at a public scales, do all axles , steering than drive axle than each trailer axle . One more than to check is to see what your truck tires are rated for. I looked for the highest rated ''E'' tire I could find ( Goodyear Pro Grade Silent Armor ) 3750#. 285x75Rx16 , I had 295x75R16 Toyos before these but found that the higher side wall height made the tire move side to side in turns or side gust of wind . With these big boxs you need to take care to load them carefully. If I'm not dry camping I will leave that 150 gls of water at home, and don't fuel the gen tank either. Wish you safe trips ,,,, ollllo