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Stubborn alternator

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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 03:11 PM
  #1  
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Stubborn alternator

I'm currently having charging issues. After replacing the battery (which I knew was bad anyway) I was running fine again. Now I'm not charging again and I figured the first part to get checked out would be the alternator. I got the top bolt off without any trouble, but the bottom bolt I cannt get to budge. I've sprayed penetrating oil around the bolt and allowed it to sit for a few hours and still nothing. I've even pulled out a cheater bar, but all that did for me was flex my wrench. Are there any tricks that I'm unaware of? Any suggestions would be great.

My truck is an '89 f250, 5.8L, auto.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 05:40 PM
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Move the wire harnesses out of the way and bring out the torch. Don't heat it red hot...just enough to loosen the corrosion in the threaded hole. It's common when using steel bolts and aluminium tapped holes. Add a bit of grease to the bolt when you get to the point of putting it all back together to avoind the same issue in the future.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 08:24 PM
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check your wires going to the altinater... ford's quite common for broken alt. wires, check that before you go to the extereme of heating up the bolt.... there should be 3 wires commeing from the plug that goes in the side of the altin.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 1994 ford
check your wires going to the altinater... ford's quite common for broken alt. wires, check that before you go to the extereme of heating up the bolt.... there should be 3 wires commeing from the plug that goes in the side of the altin.
Actually, if it's the internally regulated one which it should be, there is a plug with three wires, then a plug with two wires. Pep Boys and the 'Zone sells new alternators that come with a new three wire pig-tail. Just cut the old one off the harness, crimp the supplied connectors to the wires and use the supplied shrink tubing.

I just went through this about 2 months ago...

Be smart, go for the 75 amp alternator...only about $10-$15 more. That will insure you have the extra juice should you add anything like a winch, stereo system, extra lighting, etc...
 
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 10:09 PM
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If you can find it get Mouse Milk penetrating oil. Usually only found at aviation shops. Best stuff I have ever used.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by skierbri10
If you can find it get Mouse Milk penetrating oil. Usually only found at aviation shops. Best stuff I have ever used.
I just googled it and there were many people selling it online pretty cheap. If it's as good as you say it is, I might have to order me a can and try it out.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by zxwut?
I just googled it and there were many people selling it online pretty cheap. If it's as good as you say it is, I might have to order me a can and try it out.
I think it is great!!! I am an aircraft mechanic and it has gotten me out of so many problems I can't say enough good things about it. It isn't the cheapest stuff but for me it has worked the best.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 10:21 PM
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I found it for $5 for 8oz elsewhere and on their website it's $7.something for an 8oz tube.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 10:59 PM
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How is it with mouse cookies?
 
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jplinville
Be smart, go for the 75 amp alternator...only about $10-$15 more. That will insure you have the extra juice should you add anything like a winch, stereo system, extra lighting, etc...
For less than $100 you can get a 95amp 3G alt that will fit in with no bracket modification. Had it done on my '89 a few months ago. Of course there will be a minor wire mod.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 02:56 AM
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Originally Posted by jplinville
How is it with mouse cookies?
Did you know they have to milk the mice to get the milk????
 
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by jplinville
.just enough to loosen the corrosion in the threaded hole. It's common when using steel bolts and aluminium tapped holes.
It is a steel bolt and cast iron head with the threads.
What happens is the bolt shaft freezes in the sleeve of the alternator not the head.
So if you use heat put it on the part under the alternator. You may also be able to swing the alternator down some making a small gap between the head and the alternator to put the mouse milk in.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by subford
It is a steel bolt and cast iron head with the threads.
What happens is the bolt shaft freezes in the sleeve of the alternator not the head.
So if you use heat put it on the part under the alternator. You may also be able to swing the alternator down some making a small gap between the head and the alternator to put the mouse milk in.
Oops...I missed that it was the bottom bolt.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by subford
It is a steel bolt and cast iron head with the threads.
Its a 89 W/ 351 The bolt goes in to the bracket not the heads, or block. I just changed my brackets due to the PO snapped off the front tab for the bottom Alt mount and tried to fix with that epoxy putty ... did not work.
 
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