I have an 89 f150 w/ 302 and I have some trouble with broken bolts. 2 of the bolts on my alternator bracket broke when I tried to relieve tension on the belt tensioner. I managed to tap one and get it out but the other one wouldn't budge. The bolt is located in the upper right hole on the bracket, right where the tensioner goes.

I had posted about this a couple of weeks ago, still no progress. Would a machine shop be able to get the bolt out? I hate paying for labor but I hate not driving my truck even more. I've heard of using a welder to get the bolt out, but I've never welded before so I'm a little hesitant. What are my options? Thanks in advance!

 

Here's a post from another forum that should do the trick:

"Yes there is a tool called an easy out. It's like a drill bit only pointier and has reverse threads on it. First, you drill a hole into the bolt. Then tap the EZ-out into the hole till it gets stuck. Then twist the whole thing out They come in different sizes but tell or show the hardware store what size your bolt is and they should set you up with the right one and handle and a matching bit And ask if they have reverse thread bits, some times that alone works, and it can't hurt. If some of it is sticking up you can hacksaw (or Dremmel) a slot into it and turn it with a screwdriver"

I've seen these at NAPA but have never used them. Also, I machine shop can it out for you.

Good luck.

Bart

 

Bolt isn't moving, I tried the ez-out and it's not doin jack, any kind of acids or solvents that might work?

 

Sorry to hear it didn't go smoothly. Rusted parts are a pain. I've had some success with WD-40, but there are other solvents out there as well. Most parts stores carry a selection of solvents to help with rusted nuts/bolts. Another technique that I've used when removed rusted nuts/bolts is to heat the bolt/nut with a propane torch. Metal expands when heated, so this sometimes works. You must becareful not to catch anything on fire though, and that might be really hard considering the location of your snapped bolt. If all else fails you can drill the bolt out and then re-tap it. I would definatly practice tapping a piece of metal if you have never done it before. Or, just have a mahine shop do it. I'm currently restoring an old CJ7 and had to have the axle sent to a machine shop because the axle hub was rusted on. I broke 2 5-ton pullers in the process. I wasted 2 weeks trying to do it myself and cost myself $20.

Good Luck

Bart

 

I think I'm going to drill the bolt out and re-tap it, the machine shops I called have been ridiculous, getting quotes of around $100/hour for labor, or others that just won't work on the motor at all. What kinda work is involved with retapping holes? What tools will I need? Thanks, I appreciate the advice.

Do you have any pics of your cj? I've always had a thing for jeeps, have you seen the hemi swap that fourwheeler magazine did in their project "Teal J"?

 

I found this article on taps and dies - http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/tl_met...270183,00.html

The article assumes that you have the 'perfect' garage built by Norm Abram, so it's not real world intro. But it's good enough.

I'm not exactly sure how much room you have but I'm guessing space is going to be an issue

I would start off by drilling a small pilot whole in the snapped bolt. If it's the original bolt that bolt is going to be hard steel, so you'll need a sharp bit and some lubricant like WD-40. While you are drilling stop every once and a while to give a squirt of lubricant, this will help keep everything from getting too hot and dulling you're bit. You should feel when you are the way through the bolt as the block with be much harder steel than the bolt.

Once the pilot is drilled start using larger and larger bits until the old bolt is completely remove. Be sure to drill as straight as possibly. There's a chance that before your bit starts drilling into the threads on the block that you will be able to remove the snapped bolt, this is what I'm hoping for! If you have to drill out the threads thens at that point you'll have to re-tap them. Re-taping isn't all that tough, it's just spinning a cutting screw into the metal by hand, but it's something that you should practive before doing it on your block just to get the feel.

Good Luck! I'll post some pics of the jeep early next week - I'm climbing a couple mountains this weekend!

later,

bart

 

Awesome! I'm going to go to napa tomorrow and get everything I need. Have fun clibing those mountains.