Replacing glowplugs
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Bonney Lake, WA
Replacing glowplugs
Iv got an 01 with 120k on it. I'm setting glowplug open circuit faults. I havnt really done more then just check faults yet but due to milage I figure I might as well replace them. I heard though that with that high of milage there is a good chance of them breaking off in the head and then having to pull the head. I'm just wondering how true this is and if there is anything I can do to prevent this from happening when I do go to change them
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 935
Likes: 1
From: Bowling Green, KY
i wouldnt repklace them just based on mileage. My Truck has 190,000 on the clock and i am still running on factory installed glowplugs. It could be your GPR. Your best bet would be to get your habds on a AE from a fried or buy one from clay at Rifraff
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 197
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From: Kansas
I've heard of that happening to but usually its with cheaper plugs and manual systems that allow the plugs to be heated for too long. I've got over 200k on my truck with the original plugs and it will start 0 deg. not plugged in. I would check your wiring harness real close. You could check the ohm reading on each lead. Search this forum for what the reading should be but I'd start with that first.
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 60
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From: NewYork, Virginia
I too was concerned about glow plugs. Do you have hard starts in the morning ? Depending how cold it gets and if you have an outlet availible for a block heater is how i would determine replacing them. On my 99 i replaced all mine with oem motocraft at 150,000. BUT i was having cold start problems. It was also 4* out and i couldnt plug it in.
But your GPR could be a cheaper part to replace/check first. The dealer i went to for a quote said it was a 400 dollar + glow plugs by the book labor charge.
I too was afraid of warped tips. It took me 8 hours todo both sides and not one of my glow plugs was warped or broken they all came out easy and winters up here are well below freezing so they get worked. If you do it just be very carefull.
and****
There are methods of getting them out if the worst happens. Some one else is going to have to chime in there. i know just enough about that road to get myself in trouble.
But your GPR could be a cheaper part to replace/check first. The dealer i went to for a quote said it was a 400 dollar + glow plugs by the book labor charge.
I too was afraid of warped tips. It took me 8 hours todo both sides and not one of my glow plugs was warped or broken they all came out easy and winters up here are well below freezing so they get worked. If you do it just be very carefull.
and****
There are methods of getting them out if the worst happens. Some one else is going to have to chime in there. i know just enough about that road to get myself in trouble.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
As mentioned, test the GPR. Also test the glow plugs with an ohm meter to see if they're good. If you feel like replacing them, go ahead. Just make sure to use the Motorcraft glow plugs stamped BERU. DO NOT buy autolite glow plugs. Those, and other cheap ones, are the ones that will swell up and break off forcing you to remove the head.
As for PB blaster, that wouldn't help if the head of the glow plug has swelled up larger than the hole. Also, with the glow plugs being under the valve covers, I wouldn't want to mix PB in my engine oil.
As for PB blaster, that wouldn't help if the head of the glow plug has swelled up larger than the hole. Also, with the glow plugs being under the valve covers, I wouldn't want to mix PB in my engine oil.
Post Fiend
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
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From: Buffalo, NY
Can't get the PB in there. They swell at the bottom in the bore and could stick. They are threaded at the top. If the tips have swelled and are bound at the bottom in the bore, the instant you start turning them they could snap the tip off. So there is no way to get PB in there. Luck of the draw and hope the previous owner didn't stick the cheapo autozone plugs in there. I had two dead plugs on mine last summer. Only 85k miles. Came out real easy. I think the chances of you snapping your tips off are slim with those miles, stock set up and assuming you have original plugs in there.
You can do a simple check at the UVCH connector to make sure if the plugs are bad or not. Ohmm Check.
The two outer pins on each end of the connector are Glow plugs. Measure GP to ground.
UVCH Connector pin arrangement. GP = glow plug. I = injector. C = common.
GP-GP-I-I-C-I-I-GP-GP.
Could be just the UVCH connector is pulling out inside the valve cover. Might be time to just do a 50cent mod.
You can do a simple check at the UVCH connector to make sure if the plugs are bad or not. Ohmm Check.
The two outer pins on each end of the connector are Glow plugs. Measure GP to ground.
UVCH Connector pin arrangement. GP = glow plug. I = injector. C = common.
GP-GP-I-I-C-I-I-GP-GP.
Could be just the UVCH connector is pulling out inside the valve cover. Might be time to just do a 50cent mod.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Bonney Lake, WA
The only symptom I have is the ses light and circuit failure faults stored for cylinders 5 and 7. I also have a fault p1316 which is a whole differant problem sense my truck feels like it's running on 7.
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Senior User
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From: Bonney Lake, WA
After reading a few other threads I'm startingto think that this may be the UCVH. Cause it started out about a month ago as just number 7 glow plug and then last night the truck started running like crap so I checked again this morning and there were faults for cyl 5 and then p1316. What all should I hav on hand when I go to pull the VC? Is the vc gasket reusable?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
If you've got an SES light for a glow plug, then you have a GPCM, not the GPR. If you're also getting the P1316, then there's a very good chance you are correct and it's a loose UVCH plug. Of course it wouldn't hurt to have some glow plugs handy for any holes that have thrown a code as long as you're in there. I'd at least check them with a meter.
The gaskets are re-usable. You'll need a couple of different length extensions, a swivel, and a few choice cuss words. Just pay attention to the oil dipstick flange. If it starts to twist, stop and grab it with something so you don't damage it. Also re-torque your rocker bolts to 20 ft lbs and lower injector hold down bolts to 120 in lbs.
The gaskets are re-usable. You'll need a couple of different length extensions, a swivel, and a few choice cuss words. Just pay attention to the oil dipstick flange. If it starts to twist, stop and grab it with something so you don't damage it. Also re-torque your rocker bolts to 20 ft lbs and lower injector hold down bolts to 120 in lbs.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
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From: Payson, AZ
After reading a few other threads I'm startingto think that this may be the UCVH. Cause it started out about a month ago as just number 7 glow plug and then last night the truck started running like crap so I checked again this morning and there were faults for cyl 5 and then p1316. What all should I hav on hand when I go to pull the VC? Is the vc gasket reusable?
Also while you have the VCs off check the torque on the rocker bolts and the injector hold downs.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
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From: Payson, AZ
Wolfe,
Since you are getting codes for individual Glow Plugs you most likely have a California truck with a GPCM (Glow Plug Control Moduel) and not a GPR. If that is the case you can pull the connectors off the GPCM and ohm from there.
Since you are getting codes for individual Glow Plugs you most likely have a California truck with a GPCM (Glow Plug Control Moduel) and not a GPR. If that is the case you can pull the connectors off the GPCM and ohm from there.
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