I thought he said that he had bought it from a customer, for whom he had been doing the maintenance over its lifetime.

Pop

 

Problem is, people already fooled around with that technology years and years ago. We already learned that a ton of propane on stock rods = window. It's a no brainer. Apparently, he is oblivious to that fact, and even thinks RPM's is what did the damage, not propane.

He also visits the forums, so he knows the info is there. Yet he refuses to listen. In one of his videos, he even takes a pot-shot at us "forum guys".

 

While I agree that there is some rock-solid information in these forums, there is also a lot of baseless speculation and uninformed opinion, too.

I have seen posts as "gospel" that were, only mere days before, some other guy's half-baked opinion. There is a fair amount of "get on the bandwagon" mentality among us.

Though the above is NOT meant as a blanket endorsement of Powerstrokehelp's YouTube videos, it should not be interpreted as completely disparaging of them, either. You gotta' think through the information contained in them for yourselves. My opinion is that some is good, some not-so-good.

If you don't understand something for yourselves, read more. Research. "Answer average".

Sometimes drinking the Kool-aid is satisfying, sometimes it's deadly........

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The amusing part is how he's bragging about how great it was the he got 798k out of it. *He* didn't -- he got ~98k out of it, if indeed he got it at 700k. He managed to destroy a seasoned block by abusing it, then got "aggravated" when the rod broke. 99% of the 7.3 failures I've seen are broken rods when pushed with power adders like tunes, injectors, or juice. Some have cracked pistons or holes in them, but most folks seem to snap rods. I wonder who tunes his trucks?

 

Very true.

 

I still don't think he deserves the bashing you guys are giving him.
From few videos I have seen -he is not having too much education since he does upgrades like replacing OEM "cold, clean air" air filter with "dirty and hot air" aftermarket one. but when I was researching turbo repair help -his video was the best when I never found pictorial on this forum. Obviously when the video was showing "upgrade" from new compressor wheel to wicked one, I did reverse and UPGRADED original wicked wheel to a new one. Results are very good.
Bottom line
-he is better speaker than a lot of TV anchors or congressmen
-he does what he likes and is having fun with it
-he is making good money doing what he likes and is having fun in the process

 

double sorry

 

Well, speaking of the wheel replacement... You DON'T have to remove the VC to change the wheel (waste of time), and you *really* don't want to use an impact wrench on the turbo wheel. That's basically like taking a hammer and hitting the wheel shaft with it. Not a very good idea, IMHO. Heck, I didn't even remove the housing completely when I did mine. Never even disconnected the wastegate rod thus no risk of losing that pesky clip.

The fuel system mod one drove me crazy. Drilling out the plugs is a complete waste of time. So is removing the check valve from the bowl. There are orifices in the adapters where the lines screw into the heads that need swapped that are WAY more restrictive than any of those things...

I know what you're getting at though -- the guy's heart seems like it's in the right place, but some of the stuff he suggests leaves me scratching my noggin. LOL

 

And scratching will always be pretty common. Real life testing of different technology is pretty costly and difficult. Human senses are always very ineffective. I feel much better HP in my engine each time I vacuum the cabin carpet for example
I did research on wicked wheels and this forum seem to be pretty crazy about them.
From what I read some members experience turbo surge under heavy loads (towing) and wicked wheel is a band-aid for the problem.
Band-aid is not the fix, it is just cover up and I would suspect that putting a plug with calibrated hole in air filter would have very similar results. You see where this is going?
Anyway -combining all the experience and valuating the conclusion is what would benefit everybody.
Starting with the mentality "I will do what he advised because he is bold and fat" is not leading anywhere.

 

I'll be honest -- I have no idea what you are talking about. The WW isn't a band aid -- the stock wheel will surge in the stock turbo housing. The WW reduces the possibility of surging a great deal, thus it fixes the problem. Same with the ported compressor housing. I am running one with the stock wheel on my van turbo and it's quite effective. I know someone else running one with just a WW in his van turbo and he doesn't surge either. He's running Swamps 175cc singles, and I'm running 235cc hybrids though. Not sure which why you would consider those "band aids", but I know it certainly works.

Not sure what you meant by the "bold & fat" comment...

 

If you plan to go through the trouble of making help videos, the responsible thing to do is to GET YOUR FACTS STRAIGHT FIRST.

Almost every 7.3L video he posted up doesn't just have one or two tiny errors.... rather, most have a LOT of errors. There's a serious problem that should be a red flag to anyone.

And it's not just the errors, he has blatantly ripped off his customers in those videos. Sorry, but it's true. If your transmission build is weaker than stock, then don't blame the tires and deny a customer's warranty. If you put in new injectors, and 2 weeks later the same truck comes back in with a hole in the piston, then you might want to have the injectors flow tested.

Seriously.

 

Let me put it another way.
I never experienced surge on my truck with ww or upgraded wheel, so can only testify that newer wheel is not the source of surge.
WW gives less air, so in engine prone to surges less air will less likely to create it.
So will restricting the air flow by plugging the inlet.
Finding what actually triggers the surge and solve the problem would be the best, but I didn't find anyone who would attempt to do it.

 

Read a turbo MAP, understand surge line, and how that surge line moves simply by changing the compressor wheel. Then you'll understand.