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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Mr Green's Project/Build Thread

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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 12:00 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by JGreen236
The exhaust on my truck is pretty strong what could this be from? Is it cause I dont have my smog working? Or could it be my carb is running to rich?
It could probably be either, or both. So is your exhaust stock, because I thought only HD trucks had the exhaust like that? I want to have dual tips on my truck behind the tire like that when I get around to it. It looks good, and Ford did it from the factory like that on some models anyway.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 02:33 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by dwrestle
I don't mean to hijack your thread. I just didn't think that question was worth making a new thread for. That truck looks good, and the interior is in great shape. Rust sucks doesn't it, but if it wasn't for rust Ford wouldn't need to make new trucks would they.
I used to be really into car audio and compete a good bit. Most of the time people will mount kick panels down near the floor mats to better equalize the distance from the rear speakers to your head. Instead of the fronts being closer, they are now more equally distanced from your head, giving you better sound quality. Some people do it lower in the door due to the magnet being bigger or deeper than there is room for, and it will not clear the window when it rolls down unless its low in the door.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 11:03 AM
  #33  
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What causes a truck to jump when going from Park to Drive? It doesnt feel like grinding or anything horrible...ie no crazy sounds. Just feels like shes raging to ride. Its a pretty huge jump though.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 03:03 PM
  #34  
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Have you checked the motor mounts and universal joints? Or, perhaps the idle speed is too high?
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 03:23 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 1986F150six
Have you checked the motor mounts and universal joints? Or, perhaps the idle speed is too high?
Its probably the idle speed, it doesn't feel like a threatening jump or anything. The exhaust also has a really rich smell. What the best way to adjust the idle speed?



I'm guessing this is what I need. Which way slow the idle speed down?(Tighter or looser) And is there anything else I should look for when adjusting?
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 08:05 PM
  #36  
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Counter-clockwise to lower the idle, clockwise to raise. Ensure the engine is at normal
operating temperature when doing it.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 02:01 PM
  #37  
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Might be a dumb question but is it normal for the engine area to be pretty damn hot? Temperature gage shows the engine is staying cool, the fan is not skipping a beat, I've got water and rad. fluid. Even the top of the radiator metal is pretty hot to the touch. idk maybe i'm just stressing over nothing.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 02:14 PM
  #38  
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They do get hot... As long as you have no signs of overheating (i.e. steam, temp. gauge showing hot, etc.), don't worry about it. Have you checked the radiator coolant level (WHILE COOL!!!) or that of the overflow reservois? Does the heater feel warm when in use?
 
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 02:28 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by 1986F150six
They do get hot... As long as you have no signs of overheating (i.e. steam, temp. gauge showing hot, etc.), don't worry about it. Have you checked the radiator coolant level (WHILE COOL!!!) or that of the overflow reservois? Does the heater feel warm when in use?
overflow reservoir... is that the part next to the windshield wiper fluid? Cause if so that is empty.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 03:10 PM
  #40  
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Yes, JGreen 236, that is correct. There should be a rubber hose connecting the reservoir with the radiator neck, just below the pressure cap. Normally, there will be some antifreeze/coolant mix in the reservoir. Just because there is none, does not necessarily mean you have a overheating problem. Sometimes, you loose a little at over time. Wait until the engine is cool and then remove the pressure cap. The coolant should be just under the opening of the radiator, when the truck is on level ground. If not, refill with 50:50 mix of coolant and add some to the reservoir [about 1/4 to 1/3 full]. Make sure your radiator cap is in good shape and then replace.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 10:30 PM
  #41  
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An aftermarket temperature gauge - one with actual temperatures - is a good idea, too.
You can also get a laser-based thermometer when they go on sale for around $20 at
various places, e.g.
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
 
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 03:27 AM
  #42  
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It's normal for the top tank to be way too hot to touch - around 200 deg F

The coolant level on these earlier trucks was 1.5" below the filler neck (cold) to leave room for expansion; the reservoir catches any more overflow than that, which will all get sucked back as the engine cools. So with the engine cold, the overflow reservoir will be empty.

The later trucks were intended to have full top tanks, plus some extra coolant in the expansion tank even when cold.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 12:53 PM
  #43  
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So guess who decided to come to work with me!



lol
=P
 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 02:53 PM
  #44  
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Did you replace the sending unit with one the EXACT same length? If the sending unit pick up tube is shorter then the original it can throw off the guage on the dash.

Also, I agree with CTUBUTIS on the valave cover gasket leaking. Simple and cheap fix for dirty old I6's.

Good Luck!
 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 04:36 PM
  #45  
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All alone in the parking lot now.
 
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