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first you need to know what HP your shooting for and what the truck will be used for...we can post links all day long but whats the point of posting links for something you cant use....this guy's thread ask which turbo should i use..i dont think cost was the question..
Ron - I see your point; for me personnally it is always about cost/benefit and as I'm not trying to hit a certain HP number maybe that doeesn't apply here...
Ron - I see your point; for me personnally it is always about cost/benefit and as I'm not trying to hit a certain HP number maybe that doeesn't apply here...
Just about every thread regarding turbos etc. will turn in to "you can get this much HP" but what's NOT said is that these HP numbers are gotten (typically) at higher RPMs. My truck RARELY sees 2500rpm. I don't cruise my truck @ 90mph or race it constantly so getting feedback that isn't geared towards max HP numbers is pretty tough.
As for under $1000, you'll be looking at a van turbo or a used turbo. Van turbos are not wastegated, and typically have a 1.15 exhaust housing, so you'll have lower EGTs but spool up will be slower. If you're at or near sea level, no biggie. For me, I'm at 5300' and drive over 11,000' regularly. That big housing on that turbo would mean more lag before it spooled up well. Again, that's fine if you run up higher in the RPM range, but I don't and I prefer to have it spool sooner so I can use it where & how I drive.
Like other said: the very first question to answer is this:
How do you plan to use the truck?
That leads to: How do you currently drive the truck? Will you ever race it, and how often?
Answer those first, and be realistic, and a direction and recommendations can be offered up with some accuracy.
Just about every thread regarding turbos etc. will turn in to "you can get this much HP" but what's NOT said is that these HP numbers are gotten (typically) at higher RPMs. My truck RARELY sees 2500rpm. I don't cruise my truck @ 90mph or race it constantly so getting feedback that isn't geared towards max HP numbers is pretty tough.
As for under $1000, you'll be looking at a van turbo or a used turbo. Van turbos are not wastegated, and typically have a 1.15 exhaust housing, so you'll have lower EGTs but spool up will be slower. If you're at or near sea level, no biggie. For me, I'm at 5300' and drive over 11,000' regularly. That big housing on that turbo would mean more lag before it spooled up well. Again, that's fine if you run up higher in the RPM range, but I don't and I prefer to have it spool sooner so I can use it where & how I drive.
Like other said: the very first question to answer is this:
How do you plan to use the truck?
That leads to: How do you currently drive the truck? Will you ever race it, and how often?
Answer those first, and be realistic, and a direction and recommendations can be offered up with some accuracy.
For me, it's pulling a 53' drop deck loaded with two campers or three cars. Driving 65 mph for 100k plus miles per year. I want power to pull the mountain grades without a meltdown.
For me, it's pulling a 53' drop deck loaded with two campers or three cars. Driving 65 mph for 100k plus miles per year. I want power to pull the mountain grades without a meltdown.
IMO for that i say the 38R is a perfect fit....faster spool up with more air at lower RPM's for better power and cooler EGT's...with the H2E you will have too much lag down low and use more fuel to keep it spooled....i dont believe you will be pulling that trailer at 500 HP and max RPM so why bother with H2E?? back PSI is not a big deal with the 38R till your pushing over 40PSI with it..at that point your over the 500 HP mark..you also got to read the fine print..the H2E is for 400+ HP motor..that in its self tells you the 38R is a better choice for a working truck and still have your 500 HP DD....which by the way people are getting 550HP with the 38R and the little back PSI there getting hasnt hurt a thing....
I had the 38R and now moved to the H2E. Keep in mind that you need to consider what your going (or not going) to do with your injectors. IMO if your just looking for a little more power, get your truck chipped and add the 38R. This being said, if you tow for 100K a year, then you will VERY quickly get tired of the noise from the 38R. It is extremely noisy by comparrison to the H2E, and if you add the cost of UP Pipes and down pipe to your 38R, you might as well have purchased the H2E for about 2k.
I NOW have the H2E and Stage III's, I do notice a little more LAG in the bottom end of my H2E, however it seems to make more power at the higher end. Also it sounds pretty cool when you get it spooled up (sounds like a leafblower under the hood) and is not even close to the annoying sound of the 38R. I towed for about 300miles with the 38R before I got rid of it, and was just about ready to hang myself at the end of that trip.
what if it is a daily driver that i want to drive the **** out of, race sometimes, pull a sled sometimes, pull heave loads occasionally, and im on a buget. couple grand upgrades are fine...but only one at a time!!
if you get new SS sticks look around for a good use mounting kit and get the modded H2E...sounds like your going to peg the RPM's alot..if your staying with stock sticks the H2E may be a little lagy on the bottom end and smoke more then the 38R will let you.
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