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Just wondering if anyone can help me with my truck. As I was driving along, the engine started knocking, losing power and finally just stalled. I have a 2000 Excursion 7.3L, and as I'm not the original owner I automatically went to the fuel filter, because it sounded like it was starving for fuel. I changed the fuel filter and the truck still doesn't want to start. It cranks and tries to fire, but won't. Any suggestions?
Sounds like what happened to my brothers 6.0 when the engine cratered. I do believe it was due to coolant leaking into the EGR or some such. He received a new engine under warranty. He has a 2005, btw.
Hope yours isnt a similar issue. Welcome to the site.
Just a bit more information:
I think the original problem was a dirty fuel filter. I've changed the filter and the truck won't start. It keeps cranking but won't start. Could it be a vapor lock? If so, how can I get the air out of the system?
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Just a bit more information:
I think the original problem was a dirty fuel filter. I've changed the filter and the truck won't start. It keeps cranking but won't start. Could it be a vapor lock? If so, how can I get the air out of the system?
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Do this:
Lay under the truck near the fuel pump on the frame and have someone turn the key to the first position, listen for the fuel pump, you'll know it when you hear it. IF you don't hear anything....well. Check fuel related fuses and if all else fails, get a new pump.
Is there more than one fuel ilter on these trucks?
My truck has the prepump and intake mods done, so mine is different from yours.
These trucks technically do have two fuel filters: one on the engine and the other in the tank. The one in the tank is particualrly hard to get to, you'll need to set aside a saturday to drop the tank and get to these filters. This is exactly why people have the pre-pump and in tank mods done, it eliminates those filters. (Ford learned their lesson from this and as a result, the 6.0 and 6.4 don't have these in tank filters.)
When those filters clog after years of thousands of miles of use, you know...
A user not too long ago did his on his truck and they actually caused him to stall out. Had it not been for FTE, he would've spent an uneccesary amount of money at the dealership to get this fixed.
One other thing, when I put the new fuel filter in the fuel bowl, it was about half full with fuel. After cranking the engine several times and checking the fuel bowl again it was still only half full, shouldn't it be full if after cranking?
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I have a 2000 excursion 7.3l that just started knocking badly while I was driving and eventually stalled out. Thought it was the fuel filter so I changed it with a new one. Now I can't start the engine. the fuel bowl doesn't fill up when the key is turned on. I took the lid off the fuel bowl and noticed a lot of bubbles when the key is turned on. It would bubble for about 10-12 seconds and then the bubbling would stop. Any suggestions?
P.s. no visible signs of leaks, no wet spots or puddles on the floor.
One other thing, when I put the new fuel filter in the fuel bowl, it was about half full with fuel. After cranking the engine several times and checking the fuel bowl again it was still only half full, shouldn't it be full if after cranking?
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It should be full before the engine is even cranked...
During the "Wait to Start" process, it fills the fuel bowl, and warms the glow plugs. By the time the light goes out, the bowl has been filled with fuel for awhile, and the glow plugs are ready to go.
I'm still thinking it's either a weak pump or the in tank filters are clogged...
You should check the electric fuel pump on the drivers frame rail, have someone cycle the key while your close to it and see if it runs. It should be pretty easy to tell if it's running or not. I have had several fail on our company trucks with similar symptoms.
Thanks for all the suggestions. it turned out that it wasn't gelled fuel or a bad fuel pump. The problem was the motor oil. A week before this happened I changed the oil in the truck; following the manuals direction I put in 10w/30 instead of the 15/40 I normally have in it. I don't know if it's not cold enough here to run 10/30 or if I didn't use the right kind of 10w/30 but that was the problem. I guess it overheated and foamed and affected the ICPS. Anyway, I changed the oil back to Rotella T as well as changing the oil in the high pressure pump resevoir, and the truck fired on the first crank.