'63 stalling
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'63 stalling
I have a 223 with a single barrel that started stalling periodically, but now it stalls whenever accellerating. I checked all the fuel lines, replaced the filter, replaced the fuel pump, and just replaced the carb. I even removed the sending unit to check inside the tank, and all looks ok. The filter is clear, so I can see the fuel flow is stopping, but it stays under pressure. I can't think two different carbs would have the same problem, but it seems to be starved for gas. Does anyone have any insight?
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Sounds like it could be water in the fuel? Float sticking closed ? did you change the fuel
lines, if not could be micro particals getting in to the float bowl? ,air fuel mixture to lean?
adjust the mixture screw out a little..I know that you said you replaced the carb, but hope this helps!!
lines, if not could be micro particals getting in to the float bowl? ,air fuel mixture to lean?
adjust the mixture screw out a little..I know that you said you replaced the carb, but hope this helps!!
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Thanks, I think i'll recheck the lines. Ya know it idles fine, runs ok for a short period, but once you drive it a block or so, it stalls. I can see the fuel filter once the hood is popped, and it looks like it is starving for gas. I wonder if the line inside the tank could be drawing vapor instead of the liquid if the line has a hole in it prior to reaching the bottom of the tank? This is frustrating. Anyway, thanks for your thoughts.
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The gas cap is new, and vents fine. The carb. is new. It doesn't seem to get enough of a flow of gas. The filter is new, the fuel pump (mechanical) is new too. I disconnected the fuel line to the tank and ran a temp line from a gas can and still not enough flow to accellerate, but enough to idle. I'm thinking now the cam is worn enough to hinder enough flow from a mechanical fuel pump. Maybe an electric fuel pump is the answer. Has anyone else had this problem?
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From: Divide , Colorado
Poolguy
Hate to throw parts at the thing. I know you already replaced the mechanical pump. Did you run a fuel pump test to make sure. Take the line off the carb and run a line in a bucket crank it over should get a steady flow and about one pint in 30 seconds and close to 6 psi. On mine I can take the line off at the fuel pump and hook a gas tank to there eliminating the line between the tank and pump.Same with the line between the pump and carb.I am not saying I am apposed to a electric fuel pump if you do run one just remember to fuse the circuit and it is better to push fluids and you might need a regulator. Just hate for you to go through all of this and it be a bad coil or something
Hate to throw parts at the thing. I know you already replaced the mechanical pump. Did you run a fuel pump test to make sure. Take the line off the carb and run a line in a bucket crank it over should get a steady flow and about one pint in 30 seconds and close to 6 psi. On mine I can take the line off at the fuel pump and hook a gas tank to there eliminating the line between the tank and pump.Same with the line between the pump and carb.I am not saying I am apposed to a electric fuel pump if you do run one just remember to fuse the circuit and it is better to push fluids and you might need a regulator. Just hate for you to go through all of this and it be a bad coil or something
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I have flow.
I get flow, but it doesn't seem to be enough. I'll need to find a way to see if the fuel pump has the proper pressure.
Poolguy
Hate to throw parts at the thing. I know you already replaced the mechanical pump. Did you run a fuel pump test to make sure. Take the line off the carb and run a line in a bucket crank it over should get a steady flow and about one pint in 30 seconds and close to 6 psi. On mine I can take the line off at the fuel pump and hook a gas tank to there eliminating the line between the tank and pump.Same with the line between the pump and carb.I am not saying I am apposed to a electric fuel pump if you do run one just remember to fuse the circuit and it is better to push fluids and you might need a regulator. Just hate for you to go through all of this and it be a bad coil or something
Hate to throw parts at the thing. I know you already replaced the mechanical pump. Did you run a fuel pump test to make sure. Take the line off the carb and run a line in a bucket crank it over should get a steady flow and about one pint in 30 seconds and close to 6 psi. On mine I can take the line off at the fuel pump and hook a gas tank to there eliminating the line between the tank and pump.Same with the line between the pump and carb.I am not saying I am apposed to a electric fuel pump if you do run one just remember to fuse the circuit and it is better to push fluids and you might need a regulator. Just hate for you to go through all of this and it be a bad coil or something
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I know this is going to sound stupid' but it happened to me one time! I put on a new fuel pump and didn't put the arm under the cam lobe, so it wouldn't pump right?
Don't like to tell on myself but if it helps someone then I guess it's OK.
Don't like to tell on myself but if it helps someone then I guess it's OK.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2003
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Something like this happened to me. My truck would stall unexpectedly and fail to start until I let it sit for while. It would then would run fine for a few days or even weeks before it happened again. Eventually, it got worse and would cut-out whenever accelerating or driving uphill.
The problem was rust in the tank. Chunks of rust would block the fuel line occasionally, usually where the line made a sharp bend.
No more problems after cleaning out the tank.
The problem was rust in the tank. Chunks of rust would block the fuel line occasionally, usually where the line made a sharp bend.
No more problems after cleaning out the tank.
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How'd you clean it?
As you described, it did come on gradually. The inside of the tank looks good through the sending unit hole, but it did have bad gas in it when I got the truck. How did you clean out the tank, lines, and the fuel pump? Any suggestions?
Something like this happened to me. My truck would stall unexpectedly and fail to start until I let it sit for while. It would then would run fine for a few days or even weeks before it happened again. Eventually, it got worse and would cut-out whenever accelerating or driving uphill.
The problem was rust in the tank. Chunks of rust would block the fuel line occasionally, usually where the line made a sharp bend.
No more problems after cleaning out the tank.
The problem was rust in the tank. Chunks of rust would block the fuel line occasionally, usually where the line made a sharp bend.
No more problems after cleaning out the tank.
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I'd move to the other side of the engine at this point.
It takes very little fuel flow to keep the bowl full and the operation of the accelerater pump in the carb does not depend on fuel pump flow in the initial stages of acceleration. The accelerater pump circuit is filled by the fuel in the fuel bowl. But the acc pump is easy to check. With the eng off look down the throat as you push the throttle. You should see a nice stream of fuel on acceleration. As was mentioned you can rule out the possibility of crap floating in the tank by use of a temp fuel tank. Check your fuel pump with engine running. The engine should run off the fuel in the bowl for a min or so, more than long enough to check fuel pump flow.
I would make sure your points are not closing up (lack of lube on the rubbing block). Low point opening means late ign timing. And this comes on gradually, just like your problem did. You also want to check the vacuum advance.
Steve g
It takes very little fuel flow to keep the bowl full and the operation of the accelerater pump in the carb does not depend on fuel pump flow in the initial stages of acceleration. The accelerater pump circuit is filled by the fuel in the fuel bowl. But the acc pump is easy to check. With the eng off look down the throat as you push the throttle. You should see a nice stream of fuel on acceleration. As was mentioned you can rule out the possibility of crap floating in the tank by use of a temp fuel tank. Check your fuel pump with engine running. The engine should run off the fuel in the bowl for a min or so, more than long enough to check fuel pump flow.
I would make sure your points are not closing up (lack of lube on the rubbing block). Low point opening means late ign timing. And this comes on gradually, just like your problem did. You also want to check the vacuum advance.
Steve g
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 166
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As you described, it did come on gradually. The inside of the tank looks good through the sending unit hole, but it did have bad gas in it when I got the truck. How did you clean out the tank, lines, and the fuel pump? Any suggestions?
If there's rust in the tank, some people have good luck with removing it mechanically. They dump some sharp gravel, or a piece of chain, or a maybe just a bunch of nuts & bolts into the tank and then shake it violently until most of the loose rust is knocked off the sides. Then they rinse it with water and let it dry out thoroughly before reinstalling it.
I prefer to use muriatic acid diluted with water to dissolve heavy rust, but it's dangerous stuff. Do some research before handling the stuff.
Phosphoric acid can be used too. It's not as strong as muriatic acid, but doesn't eat metal as quickly either. It also leaves a phosphate coating on the inside of the tank that is good short-term rust prevention and acts as a primer for a tank sealer.
I use all three chemicals in the order listed, and then follow up with a final acetone rinse and a thorough drying before lining the tank with something like "Bill Hirsch Gas Tank Sealer".