I got a Transgo E40D-HD2-D Reprogramming/Shift kit for Christmas. This is not the tugger kit. I believe its the kit just below the tugger kit. It is listed for the E40D and 4R100 transmissions. Has anyone installed this kit or the tugger kit in their truck? The kit didn't come with any valve body gaskets can anyone tell me what else I need to install this kit? What size did you drill the calibration plate to? The instructions show for a diesel the following ranges 2nd (.110-.116), 3rd (.073-.082) and 4th (.086-.096). I want a good firm shift but don't want a headache every time I drive my truck. My truck is a stock 99.5 4x4 with 155,000 miles.

Thanks in advance!

 

Don't worry Aaron. Plenty of us have done this. You'll be fine. I'd suggest you going to transgo's website and watching the video first. It doesn't cover everything, but will give you an idea of what it's like. The biggest difference in the video and real life is most of us just remove one valve body at a time to play it safe, and of course the transmission fluid never really stops dripping so you won't stay as clean as the guy in the video.

Watch the video and then we can go over any questions. I'll see if I can't find Mike's thread that detailed his install.

Edit: Here's Mike's thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...l-article.html

 

Thanks Chris.

Aaron, learn from the mistakes of others. That thread has a lot of good input from others as well. Good luck and take your time.

 

Thanks for the links. I have watched the video, but noticed that it wasn't exactly like the instructions which were pretty vague to say the least. The link to Mike's thread helped a lot. So has anyone done the page 4 mods with the checkballs? And what size did you guys drill the holes in the calibration plate? Do you like the way your truck shifts now?

 

If you're referring to the check ***** above the main plate, then no. We generally leave those alone. I've ridden in trucks that drilled the holes near the small end and at the max size and didn't really feel much of a difference. My suggestion would be to find a drill bit in the range specified and go with that.

 

If memory serves do not go with the recommended diesel drill size.

I left the check ball stuff alone.

I was very pleased with the shifting and even more so after live tuning.

 

I wonder what kind of difference the page 4 mods make? I will go with a drill size in the diesel range. Do I need any other gaskets other than a new pan gasket and a new filter? Did you guy's drain your torque converter while you were at it? I think it has a drain plug if I remember correctly. I also have to get some new fluid. Anyone else feel free to post your comments too.

 

I drilled all the holes to .081". IIRC, there was a drill bit included in the kit of that size. I originally drilled them smaller, but when I serviced it recently, I dropped the Accumulator VB and redrilled all the holes in the plate to this size. It shifts firm, but not harsh. you can definitely feel the shifts. If you have the TC drain, I would drain it as well. I did do one thing different than the instructions. I used a .427 line pressure modulator instead of adding the spring to the stock one.
Don't worry about the instructions on page 4. They don't really apply to the 4R100, except for the EPC relief valve that you won't be fooling with during this install.

 

I drilled mine to about the max size in the diesel range, then de-burred them with a nice sharp 3/8ths bit (by hand). I really like how it shifts -- fast & firm, but not neck-breaking. Chris has ridden in my truck and can testify to it. With my current tunes & injectors, I'm breaking traction at 1-2 and chirping 2-3...

 

Sooo,what gives the best end product...BTS valve body,or a Transgo kit...tugger or whatever?

 

Pan gasket is reusable. Kit has all you need except new filter and fluid. I did not even look to drain the TC because I flushed mine with Valvoline Synthetic which is what you should do (flush). I highly recommend synthetic fluid here.

 

Phil, I believe you end up roughly with the same results depending on how you drill.

 

Since line pressure can be adjusted electronicly as well as mechanically, tuning can play a big factor in the way the trans shifts. Let me clarify my choice of hole sizes. I had the standard DP Tuner trans tunes when I rebuilt my trans and together with the shift kit would be way too harsh with the recommended hole sizes. I also have a slightly "tighter" TC and a Lock-up valve along with all the pump mods. I had my trans tunes tweaked during live tuning at RRE and it made a noticable difference. Jody told me that I knew what needed to be done for any firmer shifting and that would be by mechanical/hydraulic means, hence the redrilling of the holes. I deburred mine in the same manner that Joe described.

 

The Tugger gives you the most mods, even if you don't pull the trans. I don't know how different it is, but I know that I mod'ed my main VB as well, which doesn't get done with just an accumulator VB change. I also recommend syn fluid, but I am 100% syn in my truck and I firmly believe in them. Been using them for 20 years.

 

The non-tugger kit doesn't have a plate for the accumulator vb, it uses springs and other mods. Transgo won't sell you just the plate either which is the big difference between the two. I'm pretty sure the hd2 and tugger are the same kit.