That sucks! Really sorry you went through so much effort to not get good results brother. I hope you get it all figgered out soon.

 

My guess is you have an exaust leak somewhere causing yor high EGTs and low boost. I would go through and make sure your bolts are tight on the manifolds and up pipes, thats likely the source of your leak.

Nice job though and I sure wish the oil pans looked that good on my trucks!

 

I am worn out just from looking at those pictures.

The underside of that truck sure does look nice with that POR15 though...and I do like the yellow. I can't see how the paint would contribute to EGT temps...seeing as how you're having boost and mileage issues, definitely something else going on.

 

That is one heck of a good looking truck,frame,engine,etc...You did a good job! I'm sorry to here you are having so many problems tho. Thanks for the good pics!

 

This may be a stupid question, but is your EBPS tube connected or is the fitting in the passenger manifold capped? The reason I ask is in one of your pictures, the tube is still disconnected...

 

It was reconected with a new EBPS tube, old one is in the picture

 

Yeah Im at a total lose as to what to look for now, the ceramic coating is designed to keep more heat in the exhaust, which to me would help spool the turbo faster and keep heat out of the engine bay...or atleast i thought. But this thing is a dog right now.

I checked and rechecked all clamps and hoses, everything looks good. It was dirty as all get out in the garage, do you think the IC fins might be glogged with gunk and contributing to the poor performance? Ill give it a bath 2morrow and see what that does for it. Checked the turbo shaft for play before I installed it and again today without any change.

Also: I dont have a fuel pressure gauge so I cant read the PSI of the fuel. Do you think a dieing pump would give me the results I posted earlier about 62/63 MPHvs65MPH?

 

Ill have to check the exhaust really good, only way I know of doing it is making it smoke and having someone in the cab while im underneath it ripping the go pedal and looking for coal seeping through the leak. Is there any other way of doing it that is more single person friendly? What about reading the EBPS through AE? Would that give me some numbers to work with?

 

I dont have AE so I cant help there but you might be able to hear the noise buy using a putty knife. Run it around the seals and use it to deflect any noise to you. Or run your had around trying to feel for air/exhaust.

 

Let me be the first to say that's a BAD idea... for lots of reasons. How about start with a cold truck, partially obstruct the exhaust (~75%), and go bare hand hunting . Be systematic starting with your manifolds (they get hot first), feel for air, hold a small pcs of paper or other lightweight item you can see that would be deflected by the flow of air. Dbl check your EBPV... make sure it's secured at the mount, and the sensor is secured to the mount.

How about the ~3" O-ring that seals between the 5-way plenum and the turbo outlet. Did it make it back in there?

You'll find it. I'm really leaning toward an exhaust leak because a low fuel scenario probably wouldn't exhibit high EGT's. Truck looks good though, and I'm certain if you can do all that you already have done to it, fixing this will be no problem.

 

Thanks for the reply, the O-ring did make its way back in, I changed it out with a new one and still have the old one in the glove box.

I wouldnt have thought to use a lightweight pcs of anything because the engine fan would flow air towards the engine giving a false apperence of a leak??

Did you mean EBPV Tube or the valve itself? I put in a non-ebpv pedistal so there is no more valve. I will admit I asked my bro to tighten that tube to the manifold but that it one thing I didnt check yet.

How would I go about obstructing the exhaust? i've got dual so should I just plug one side and half of the other?

Thanks to all for the comments

 

How about starting with the belt taken off so the fan isn't turning. Don't do it for long as your batts will drain down, and your water pump won't be turning but I would try that so you don't get airflow unnecessarily.Do it when cold too. If you can start it without the glow plugs and make a bunch of white smoke, that would be a good visual aid.

 

Now that's what I'm talkin about... I was going to suggest the belt, but the GP's is genius. Also, the "white" should show soot easier. For your exhaust, how about one side gets an old towel rolled up stuffed in tight, the other gets an old towel wrapped around a ~1.5" piece of PVC or other pipe. I'd probably have the partial obstruction in place, start the truck, then stuff the other side up. (no need in 86'n a starter )

For your EBP tube, connections are manifold -->> tube -->> bottom of mount, then the EBP sensor is secured to the mount... so the sensor could be "tight", but the tube may not be tight at the bottom. Hope that makes some sense.

 

Ok I checked the tube, its connected and tight at both ends. Started cold and try to check for leaks but was in a hurry so I didnt find anythin.

Went to the gun range which is 40 miles away, was just below 3/4 tank and got to the range with just above 1/2 tank(the needle just barley touching the white of half tank) I figured ya thats normal for now. But when I went back the 40miles it hardley moved, I even had to run to the PX to buy some stuff and got back to the barracks with the needle showing just below half tank(need still over the white but half way) So I dont know wth to think. EGTs were a bit lower on the way back and I was trying to keep it around 5mph faster than I was going there. My brain is fried on this and Im going to call clay here in a bit to try and figure some stuff out.

 

Nice work cleaning up the under side of your truck. I'm proud of you for taking the time to make it 'right'. :-) My truck is from the south, so the rust spots are minimal (mostly under the batteries) but tempted to do something like this one day when I have a garage that the whole truck fits in at the same time.

Did some similar work recently (all the stuff in my sig) including the up pipes, without removing the stock exhaust manifolds because i didn't want to deal with the rusty hardware. The up pipes ended up being the cause of several issues that seemed like something else. My worst was t he connection between the pass side exhaust manifold and the up pipe - and i luckily still hadn't put the pass side fender well plastic back in - which made it a lot easier to get to. I ran into a time crunch with mine as well - and ended up not getting it tight enough the first time around. With the truck at an idle, i could actually feel the air flow with my hand. I got it tightened down better this time - but still have a small leak at WOT. (It souds like a faint chirping - almost like a belt... or like the flying car from the old Jetson's cartoon.)

Before i tightened it up - I got low boost at wot, poor mileage, tons of lag, it seemed like my transmission wasn't shifting correctly (when actually the boost leak was just confusing the pcm) and a funny noise that my wife made fun of. After getting it snugged up (but not perfect) my mileage has improved, lag is cut in half, boost climbs like a champ and the PCM is happy enough that the transmission shifts nice and smooth - without bogging (sometimes for a second or two) in between gears.

I'm actually glad to have found your thread - going to try the same methods to check mine for leaks. (Cold engine, no glow plugs, partially blocked exhaust, etc etc... and finish making sure everything is snugged up.)

Proud of you for taking on such a huge project all at once. Hang in there and you'll eventually get it figured out... and feel better when you do. I spent more than a few days asking myself "what was I thinking???" before everything finally came together.

Keep us posted as you get it figured out.

Question for everyone else keeping an eye on this thread - obviously it would be a terrible idea to try on hot parts - but if everything is cold when you start - what about using some strong soapy water at all the joints to watch for bubbles - instead of having to mess with paper or disconnect the fan belt? It works well enough for finding leaks in welding hoses and punctured tires....