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Thats what Im talking about, 4k+ worth of parts on the floor and sleeping on an air matress, sometimes I really miss my soldiering days!! Thanks for the service!!
So far this project has been failure after failure! 3 days left to get it done and the 1st coat of POR-15 just went on.
For starters the exhaust manifold bolts were garbage, every head of every bolt was so badly rusted they rounded off as I tried to remove them, on top of that the angle for the impact was bad. Threw some heat and an easy out socket on there and most of them came out with ease, had to cut one head off and had to bash it with a spud bar to get it off! One bolt was so badly rusted on the shank in the manifold webbing that the head did a half turn before the threaded part of the bolt even moved, not sure what they are made out of but GAWD DAAAMMM thats a tuff lil sucker.
After that ordeal I decided to tackle the rear main seal, and am SOOsosososososoo glad I did because there is a 1/4 inch groove in the crank where the seal had been. No lie on that measurment, and the seal itseal was frail and britle.
Moving on to the largest part of it all...the RUST! And holy cow was it bad, had to rent a 2 stage compressor and sandblaster to clean this sucker and 23 bags of sand later shes was done...for the most part. Didnt have time to hit the bed with the sandblaster so that will be saved for another day.
To be honest its the first time I feel that i've bit off more than I can chew, sure didnt expect it to take this long.
You've gotten me to thinking I should remove the bed on mine now to hit the rust and do my in tank mods at the same time. For anyne that's done it, how hard is is to get at the bolts to get the bed off? How many are there? I'm not so worried about physically lifting it as I have a backhoe/ loader and tons of straps but is unbolting it a chore, or not too bad?
I have used POR15 myself and always thought it was a good product, however, just within the last couple of days have heard some complaints. In fact one of those complaints was on this site. There is a new product, I believe it is called Rust Bullet. They say it is the best on the market and I also saw it adverised on this site. Just thought I'd mention it to ya!
You've gotten me to thinking I should remove the bed on mine now to hit the rust and do my in tank mods at the same time. For anyne that's done it, how hard is is to get at the bolts to get the bed off? How many are there? I'm not so worried about physically lifting it as I have a backhoe/ loader and tons of straps but is unbolting it a chore, or not too bad?
David, my bed bolts were pretty bad and it even snapped my impact T50 bit so I just cut the heads off of the bolts. Im putting in Grade 8 bolts instead of the factory bed bolts because I dont wanna have to deal with that again if I have to remove the bed again.
Originally Posted by flatbeder
Did you take pics of the rear main seal R&R? Mine mite be out aswell so it would be nice to see what I'm up agianst...thx
BIG JOE yes I did take pics...picture even shows the groove thats worn into the metal. It wasnt at all hard. I heated the wear-ring that comes with the new seal over a heater to expand it, and it pretty much slide onto the crank but had to tap it a lil to make it seat all the way.
Originally Posted by blueovalgirl
I have used POR15 myself and always thought it was a good product, however, just within the last couple of days have heard some complaints. In fact one of those complaints was on this site. There is a new product, I believe it is called Rust Bullet. They say it is the best on the market and I also saw it adverised on this site. Just thought I'd mention it to ya!
Good luck with your project!
blueovalgirl, ive heard of rust bullet also I think its been around for some time tho. When I was looking into POR-15, Rust Bullet was also mentioned. the 3 coats I put on my frame and underbody isnt gonna come off anytime soon. This stuff is tuff as nails and Ive already dropped my impact wrench on it a few tims and that paint just laughs it off. lol
It should be running later today, Ill post pictures then and video of start up!
I have had my 1999 since new. The bed box split in two places. One was right down the front seam on the driver's side. They juyst are not made for carrying abything other than a lawnmower or trash cans. I took the box off and replaced it with a flatbed made from 4X12 inch bridge road timbers- well creosoted.on. The timbers are nicely seasoned Red Fir. They are hedl together with a channel metal frame and through bolted with carriage bolts to new cross bars over the frame. Where I needed to shim between the OEM frame and my new frame I used oak 2 X 4s. I made light boxes for the tail/turn/stop/backup lights that are through bolted to the end cap cross beam of the bed. The rear bumper is off a '51 Ford Flatbed.
The result? Well, it looks a little like something Pa Joad or Jed Clampet might be driving. The works for me in rural NM but I do get some strange looks when in the big cities like Colorado Springs. So, I need to pretty it up some.
Thanks. I'll have a look and decide on whether to make the effort based on the condition of the bolts I think.
Cheers, Fellow infidel......
[QUOTE=Fordbronco69;8356475]David, my bed bolts were pretty bad and it even snapped my impact T50 bit so I just cut the heads off of the bolts. Im putting in Grade 8 bolts instead of the factory bed bolts because I dont wanna have to deal with that again if I have to remove the bed again.
Ok this is probably the last thing Ill do to this truck...forever. Not only am I physically and emotionally drained from this project but im broke as a joke. I HAD to leave before noon on the 14th to make it back for roll call in TX on the 16th. Most of these pictures were taken morning of the 14th, it rolled out the garage at 0400 and I left at 1000.
3 Problems have arised from it all.
Problem #1
High EGTs
150F-250F HIGHER than stock setup, now Im not sure if this is due to the entire pre-turbo exhaust being coated or not. But due to the fact my 2nd problem is low boost I think the turbo is playing a large role in this. The EGTs rise quick and sit at 800F cruising on flat ground at 65MPH(Speedometer). Prior setup would sit anywhere between 475F-600F cruising the same speed and same route.
Problem #2
Low Boost
My van turbo will read up to 15/16 PSI MAX while on highest DP setting and driving up a small long incline with the pedal hitting the floor board. At 65 cruising its at about 3psi.
At first start up it was evident I had an ehxuast leak, traced it down to the left bank manifold to up-pipes. Fixed that and no audible noises empeding an exhaust leak so I figured I better make sure. Put the DP on 7 and ripped a few to find a small leak on the right bank manifold to up-pipe. Few more rips later and no exhaust leaks found. Took it out for a spin and I know the van turbo with stock sticks with mild tuning will still lag but I tell ya that my butt-o-meter dosnt feel the turbo, when It did feel it when the tach was barried it would rate "SUPER LAME" on the scale. I did install a wicked wheel on a van turbo (not sure if thats super bad, super good or w/e)
Problem #3
Fuel Mileage
Has been cut literally in 1/2, driving up from Texas to WI 3 weeks ago it took 65 gallons which is 17.24 MPG, from WI to Texas 3 days ago it took 115 Gallons which is 9.74MPG for the same route, reletivly same speed (65MPH or just under 2k RPM)
My stock setup without Airdog outright beat my current setup. What gives? There obviously somthing wrong.
Ive checked the quick stuff: fuel filter, changed oil/filter, air filter. Plugged the AE in and noting but the EBPV code an the turbo selinoid showed up. Checked for dragging brakes all tires spin freely.
ALSO; If I keep it at 62/63MPH I will get better mileage than if the tach was at 65MPH. I would do 1/4 tank increments to prove this theory. At 62/63MPH I could go 120-130 miles on 1/4 tank. At 65+MPH I could go 60-75 miles.
David, my bed bolts were pretty bad and it even snapped my impact T50 bit so I just cut the heads off of the bolts. Im putting in Grade 8 bolts instead of the factory bed bolts because I dont wanna have to deal with that again if I have to remove the bed again.
BIG JOE yes I did take pics...picture even shows the groove thats worn into the metal. It wasnt at all hard. I heated the wear-ring that comes with the new seal over a heater to expand it, and it pretty much slide onto the crank but had to tap it a lil to make it seat all the way.
blueovalgirl, ive heard of rust bullet also I think its been around for some time tho. When I was looking into POR-15, Rust Bullet was also mentioned. the 3 coats I put on my frame and underbody isnt gonna come off anytime soon. This stuff is tuff as nails and Ive already dropped my impact wrench on it a few tims and that paint just laughs it off. lol
It should be running later today, Ill post pictures then and video of start up!
I myself have only applied POR15 and hadn't heard anything about Rust Bullet until recently. However, my last project was about 12 years ago. I'm hoping to start another again because I'm looking to buy an older SD PSD. Looking for a 2000-2003 7.3. Not a project truck, but figure unless I buy a truck from down south, it may need some work underneath and I'm like you and despise rust! Plus I miss it and that just proves how long it has been, because that POR 15 is really tough to get off after you have gotten it on you, ha! If you get a chance and are interested, check out my old 2002 that I have posted in my album. I sold that truck about 5 years ago and am kicking myself now!
I'm looking forward to seeing that video when you post it.
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