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FICM voltage

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Old Dec 28, 2009 | 10:10 PM
  #16  
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MoyockPowerstroke
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From: Moyock, NC
Originally Posted by goneinsixty
I found the pin head size capacitor that broke off and was able to solder it back on. Then I did half of the repair (the smaller solder joints). My solder iron wouldn't get hot enough to melt the larger points. Crazy thing is that I put it back together and started the truck. It ran a little rough, I shut it down and pulled the codes (P0603 and p1000). I cleared the codes and started the truck again. This time it ran smooth. I shut it down and checked the codes again and it only came up with P1000. No low voltage codes at all 8 cylinders like it was before I pulled the ficm. Maybe I fixed it. I guess I'll have a better Idea in the morning when it has sat over night.
Whoa!! That was a close one....I'm breathing again....lol.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 07:25 AM
  #17  
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finding that capacitor was pure luck. It was stuck to one of the screws that hold the board in. Anyway the truck is running rough this morning after sitting all night so I guess I didn't fix anything. Time for a new FICM I suppose. I will call swamps today and if they have nothing I think I will be taking it to the dealer tonight for a nice $950.00 they can do it.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 07:47 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by goneinsixty
finding that capacitor was pure luck. It was stuck to one of the screws that hold the board in. Anyway the truck is running rough this morning after sitting all night so I guess I didn't fix anything. Time for a new FICM I suppose. I will call swamps today and if they have nothing I think I will be taking it to the dealer tonight for a nice $950.00 they can do it.

Being in the electronics biz, I highly doubt that one missing little capacitor is the sole source of problems.

Besides, that is actually a repairable fault --- for a qualified electronics shop.

Before you drop $$$ on a new FICM, why don't you see if a qualified and reputable shop can repair the unit for you?
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 07:49 AM
  #19  
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I agree with gearloose...just take the repair procedures described here in the forums Dr Quads fix...and find a local electronics repair shop to see if they can get'r-dun.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 08:02 AM
  #20  
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Here is a link to a Ford Technician guide for the FICM. It contains a ton of good info. At the end it has DTC's listed and what they mean (as they relate to the FICM).

Note - replacement FICM's come unprogrammed.

Common symptoms of a failed FICM are:
- No Start
- Constant misfire at all engine temperatures

Symptoms other than these are not likely to be caused by FICM module.

http://fordpowerstrokeforums.com/dow...CM%20Guide.pdf

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6341953
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 05:27 PM
  #21  
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I am not sure what pin to test on a 7 pin, Is it the one closest to fender or the one furthest from fender? When I'm standing at the fender looking at the 7 screws, they are running up and down, not left to right.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 07:16 PM
  #22  
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you test the pin closest to the center of the engine on the four pin row.

By the way I ordered a rebuilt ficm with heavy duty componenets from Swamps and it works awsome. The customer service was also second to none. I would highly recommend them.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 07:37 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by goneinsixty
you test the pin closest to the center of the engine on the four pin row.

By the way I ordered a rebuilt ficm with heavy duty componenets from Swamps and it works awsome. The customer service was also second to none. I would highly recommend them.
Okay, now I'm confused. So are you saying furthest from the fender? Like more torward the engine as opposed to the fender? Hey how much for the reprogrammed FICM, and did you have to send your old one in first or just send your old one with a core charge? Thanks.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 06:09 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by MoyockPowerstroke
Okay, now I'm confused. So are you saying furthest from the fender? Like more torward the engine as opposed to the fender? Hey how much for the reprogrammed FICM, and did you have to send your old one in first or just send your old one with a core charge? Thanks.
Yup, the pin furthest from the fender in the 4 pin row.

The rebuilt ficm is $350.00 with heavy duty componenents at 48 volts (stock). For an extra $50.00 you can get one jacked up to 58 volts. Because I tow heavy stuff they recommended that I stick with the stock voltage. I can always boost mine up with my superchips programmer if I want to when not towing. Tome it was a no brainer... $800to $1000 at the dealer or a heavy duty one from Swamps for $350. I figured the factory one will fail again sometime as they have not upgraded, to my knowledge, to heavy duty componenents. As far as a a core. They ask that you send the old one back. I guess they only charge you if you don't send it. Good luck.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 06:37 AM
  #25  
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From: Moyock, NC
Originally Posted by goneinsixty
Yup, the pin furthest from the fender in the 4 pin row.

The rebuilt ficm is $350.00 with heavy duty componenents at 48 volts (stock). For an extra $50.00 you can get one jacked up to 58 volts. Because I tow heavy stuff they recommended that I stick with the stock voltage. I can always boost mine up with my superchips programmer if I want to when not towing. Tome it was a no brainer... $800to $1000 at the dealer or a heavy duty one from Swamps for $350. I figured the factory one will fail again sometime as they have not upgraded, to my knowledge, to heavy duty componenents. As far as a a core. They ask that you send the old one back. I guess they only charge you if you don't send it. Good luck.
Thats reallt great info. Thanks.
 
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