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FICM voltage

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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 09:49 AM
  #1  
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FICM voltage

I have read the test procedure but it is not clear to me as to what the voltage should be on the left pin in the 4 pin row on a 7 pin ficm while the truck is running. It reads 47.7 volts with the key on and about the same while cranking but drops to about 19 volts while the truck is running. One post (ficm Repair post) says to check while running and the ficm test post says to check while cranking and key in on position but nothing about running. I am confused. Is the running voltage correct?
 
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 11:54 AM
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No reading under 45 is any good.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 12:08 PM
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you would check it both koeo for 45v+ and if thats good you would then retest koer for
45v+
If you are under on either you have an issue.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 02:17 PM
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Ok thanks for the replies. With only 19 volts while engine is running, I guess I will try the repair and see what happens.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by goneinsixty
Ok thanks for the replies. With only 19 volts while engine is running, I guess I will try the repair and see what happens.
Don't forget to post back your results. These testimonies help others.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 04:22 PM
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Ive got one in the shop with 2 bad drivers in it maybe Ill play with that one when I have a chance. the caps are still good in it.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 05:48 PM
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I will post back after I do the repair. It looks like it will be monday. Sure would be nice if it works. I'll let you know.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 06:01 PM
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Make sure you disconnect power first before you start unplugging/ plugging in electronics. Don't ask how I know. Make SURE you follow the instructions also. Theres many little parts in there, it is intimidating. Well, at least for me it was. Good luck, and post your results. Brickie has done 2 of them with success, I'm sure he can help if you have any questions. He helped me!
 
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 06:42 PM
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huh ive never been afraid.... but after all it's never my truck im working on. mine runs fine
 
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Old Dec 27, 2009 | 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by D8chumley
Make sure you disconnect power first before you start unplugging/ plugging in electronics. Don't ask how I know. Make SURE you follow the instructions also. Theres many little parts in there, it is intimidating. Well, at least for me it was. Good luck, and post your results. Brickie has done 2 of them with success, I'm sure he can help if you have any questions. He helped me!
Thanks for the advice. I'll take it slow and follow the directions to a T. I assume that the 7 pin is the same as the 4 pin repair. At least that is what someone stated in the other post. "The major components inside are the same".
 
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Old Dec 28, 2009 | 01:25 PM
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Well I broke a small Capacitor off the board trying to clean the damn gummy crap off. So I figure I might a swell not bother going any further. I can't find the capcitor, it is tiny. It is one of two that are at the end of the cucuit board near the screw hole. Guess I need a new ficm. If i can find a used one will it work without any programming?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2009 | 04:36 PM
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If you get one from a salvage yard the same year as yours I think yes. Maybe someone else will chime in, but maybe the ones from Swamps or PHP might be good to go? If they have any that is. Maybe call them, its a weekday so you might have more success than I did as I boogered mine on a Sunday Keep us posted! I hope you have better luck than I did, mine was towed to the dealer Mon morning and I didn't get it back until Fri afternoon.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2009 | 06:41 PM
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I found the pin head size capacitor that broke off and was able to solder it back on. Then I did half of the repair (the smaller solder joints). My solder iron wouldn't get hot enough to melt the larger points. Crazy thing is that I put it back together and started the truck. It ran a little rough, I shut it down and pulled the codes (P0603 and p1000). I cleared the codes and started the truck again. This time it ran smooth. I shut it down and checked the codes again and it only came up with P1000. No low voltage codes at all 8 cylinders like it was before I pulled the ficm. Maybe I fixed it. I guess I'll have a better Idea in the morning when it has sat over night.
 

Last edited by goneinsixty; Dec 28, 2009 at 06:42 PM. Reason: mistake
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Old Dec 28, 2009 | 06:46 PM
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the Po603 is kam memeory ingnor it. The P1000 is a pass code with moniters not complete also ingnor it. Gratz
 
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Old Dec 28, 2009 | 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by goneinsixty
If i can find a used one will it work without any programming?
You should be a ble to split the FICM and use your other half if the programming is different.
 
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