Well it's been about 25,000 miles since the EGR valve has been looked at so I decided to do a little cleaning this morning. This topic is well documented but I figure that maybe someone will see something else that may answer a question if they decide to undertake this maintenance.

Popping the EGR valve out is very easy. All it takes is a few regular tools, carb cleaner, a wire brush, and some new o-rings and gasket. That's pretty much it.

The EGR valve is located between the alternator and the oil filter. It is black on top with a wiring harness going into it. Some may argue that you need to disconnect the batteries before doing anything. I have never done that and haven't had any problems and also have never thrown a code. That is not to say that problems could not arise because I chose to be lazy.

The trickiest part of the project is getting the thing out. There are 2 small bolts holding it in. Mine takes a 5/16 socket on an extension to get them out. I don't have the Ford EGR puller so I have to improvise by running wires through the bolt holes and then using a bar against the alternator to pull straight up on the valve. To start this process, you have to turn the valve so the bolt holes are off the manifold so you can run the wires through. I'm sure there are numerous ways to do this but I do it with channel lock pliers. I put a rag over the valve and then VERY CAREFULLY use the channel locks to turn it. You can turn it either way but it will be easier to get the wires through if you turn it counter-clockwise.

Here is a picture of everything ready to pop out. I apologize for the quality, I didn't have a flash.

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...222091013a.jpg

A slight pull on the bar and the thing just comes right out.

The valve didn't look as bad as I thought it would. Last time I did this, at about 55,000 miles, there was a lot more coking of the valve. This time, it was just covered in soot.

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...222091016a.jpg

All you do next is clean the lower body and both valves with carb cleaner. Beware though. There are 2 holes just outboard of the gasket. Make sure you don't allow the cleaner to get into those holes. Hold the valve upright as you clean it and it will help. I used a small brush to get all of the soot off. You can also move the valves to check that there isn't any soot causnig the valve not seat properly. If there is junk in there, clean it out. Once you get it clean, submerge the valve into the carb cleaner for a while. I let it sit there for 10 to 15 minutes.

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...222091051a.jpg

The container I used was from a spray bottle that I had emptied, cleaned, and cut to the size I needed. The lower part of the valve fit perfectly. While it was sitting in the cleaner, I inspected the manifold to make sure it was clean. I should have taken a picture but I forgot. There was some soot on both the side of the hole where the o-rings seat and at the bottom. I scraped that out and then used a shop vac to get what was left out of there.

When you're done letting the valve soak, wipe it down. I also used compressed air to get rid of whatever carb cleaner was left. You'll be left with a shiny egr valve. In the following picture, you can also clearly see the 2 holes at the base of the actuator. Do not let cleaner get in there.

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...222091125a.jpg

You can either keep the same o-rings and gasket or you can replace them. I chose to replace them. They only cost $7 at the dealer. That is cheap insurance as far as I'm concerned.

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...222091126a.jpg

If you choose to replace the o-rings, put the gasket on first. Don't ask me how I know. Once the new rings and gasket are on, it's ready to go back into the truck.

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...222091129a.jpg

The installation is even easier than the removal. Just put it back in with the harness to the aft of the engine and press straight down. I chose to put the screws in and tighten them a couple turns at a time so the valve wasn't going in sideways. I'm sure there is a better way to do it, but that is the way I have done it. When it's tight, plug in the harness and start 'er up. You're done.

From start to finish, this is a 30-45 minute job. I have also heard guys say that they start it up with the valve removed and rev it to blow the soot out. I don't know if that is necessary and I don't do it. You'll probably get a code if you do and I don't have any way to clear codes at home so I'd rather not do something I know will throw one, especially if it isn't necessary.

 

Nice write-up.

Follows are a couple of articles on EGR's:

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-06-12.php

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-05-01.php

 

Yours sure cleaned up a heck of a lot better than mine!