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I am fed up with the crummy Ford pedal-mounted brake light switch. I have had repeated failures with a wire coming loose or the switch failing and the effort to crawl under breaks my old neck and back.
Are any of you guys aware of a master cylinder mounted pressure switch that cuts directly into the hydraulic line?
Seems to me like I have a common gripe. The design stinks.
Odd- I have only had one of these fail in all the trucks I've had. All the rest were factory Ford switches too.
You could probably use a newer cruise control disconnect switch mounted in a tee in one of the circuits. Just make sure to use a fuse in the line so it doesn't catch your truck on fire.
i've had a few of the plastic threads give out on me. their not the best design. i can't get any real ford ones up here in ontario, so i'm stuck with the napa crap.
i've had a few of the plastic threads give out on me. their not the best design. i can't get any real ford ones up here in ontario, so i'm stuck with the napa crap.
The NAPA switches are just as good as the Ford switches. I've even got one in my truck right now from Advance. It's a GP Sorenson switch.
The main reason they fail is because they are adjusted wrong or the master cylinder does not return to the full "up" position properly.
CJ, Sounds like the install is the issue. I have a 76 switch mounted under the dash to work off the pedal for about 11 years now. Had to replace one switch once, mounted it back to where the other was, and had lights again.
Give us a little more detail, bet we can help you out.
Had a problem with mine when I got it, kept slidding out of the threads, I just wrapped it with teflon tape and screwed it back in all has been fine for 15 years.
Actually, the current problem is with a '68 Cougar. No brake lights. I can look up and see that a wire has pulled out of a bayonet connector but I can't get to it with my old arthritic fingers. The problem is a wire that moves back and forth with the pedal. Lousy design. I am looking to bypass the problem on both my '67 P/U and the Cougar and put in a pressure switch that I can get to. Part of my problem may be the huge amount of current the bank of rear brake lights draw on the Cougar. Repeated failures. Maybe the Dummy can tell me the part number for the Cougar and the P/U. Kragens has a one size fits all and I might be overloading the Cougar switch.
I know this thread is kinda old but feel compelled to add my two cents worth. My brother had a 70 f100 that we put 3 brake light switches in because the threads would get ruined. His fix for that problem: He went to Lowe's and got two nuts and reinstalled it, never had any more problems.
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