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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

brake light switch

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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 11:20 AM
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brake light switch

so what are people using when they change over to firewall mount pedal ,, right now i have a pressure switch mounted at the master cylinder , i would like to change over to a pedal switch ...

thanks
 
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 11:49 AM
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You should be able to get the switch for them. Is it a GM set up? you can find them at Napa or other auto parts stores. You may have to make/fab a bracket.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 11:53 AM
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From: long island,ny
I used an early gm one, fabbed up a small bracket.

Standard Motor Brake Light Sending Units SLS66 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
 
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 03:09 PM
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I got the power booster from POL its for a ford, , i will have to check that switch out

Thanks for now i am running the pressure switch inline
 
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 09:10 PM
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C1AZ-13480-A (replaced 0A-13480) = Same pressure activated brake (stop) light switch used 1940/66. When Ford went to dual master cylinders beginning in 1967, switch located on brake pedal.

The switch used in 1967 is 1967 only.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 11:14 PM
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In most of the tech articles and threads on disc brake/power brake swaps everyone talks about using the pedal mounted switch (usually from the donor truck). I kept thinking I was going to have to rig something up to use the pedal switch....but in the end I just used the pressure switch, in line like yours from the sound of it. It was just easier and works like a champ, just like it did for years with my drum brakes. I don't really understand why the pedal switch is so superior? I hear arguments about the brake lights still working if you lose pressure...but if my brakes aren't actuating the brake lights...seems like that's the least of my troubles....ha

I guess I'm curious to hear yours and other opinions or observations as to why the pedal switch is usually deemed necessary?
 
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Old Jul 12, 2013 | 12:57 AM
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Pedal mount should have a bracket on it, if it doesn't it simple to make and use a gm push in type switch.

 
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Old Jul 12, 2013 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Schuyles
In most of the tech articles and threads on disc brake/power brake swaps everyone talks about using the pedal mounted switch (usually from the donor truck). I kept thinking I was going to have to rig something up to use the pedal switch....but in the end I just used the pressure switch, in line like yours from the sound of it. It was just easier and works like a champ, just like it did for years with my drum brakes. I don't really understand why the pedal switch is so superior? I hear arguments about the brake lights still working if you lose pressure...but if my brakes aren't actuating the brake lights...seems like that's the least of my troubles....ha

I guess I'm curious to hear yours and other opinions or observations as to why the pedal switch is usually deemed necessary?
If you ever install cruise control the hydraulic switch wont disengage you cruise control soon enough and you will be under power and braking at the same time before there is enough pressure to turn you brake light on and disengage your cruise.
You need a mechanical switch that will close as soon as you barely push your pedal. I used the complete pedal assy out of a Thunderbird with the factory switch for my cruise and it works great.
 
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