I scanned my truck this morning and got a #8 injector imbalance or something like that, plus my ect running down the highway is about 170 and my eot is in the 220+ range. I heard that my oil cooler is plugged. Any info? Will I be spending next weekend putting a new cooler and injector in? Can the cooler be cleaned and salvaged or are they "throw aways"?

 

there is an oil cooler kit. its about $350 for the parts, thats better then the $600 they were for the complete unit. And yes sounds like you need a cooler.

The injector can be either the ficm or injector. most likly the injector for a balance /contrubtion code.

 

I hope its not the FICM, I just replaced it last summer. Where can i find the cooler "rebuild kit"? Ist that a dealer item?

 

What causes the oil coolers to fail on these trucks??Seems to be common?

 

ya the kit can be gotten off ebay or the dealer. I think the dealer is the safe route here.

What causes the cooler to fail. lack of maintance, checmical fallout, incorrect oil filters, poor oil quality, poor coolant quality. and goverment mandated clean air act's (egr system) lets not forget to thank the man

 

When i was at the dealer getting the Unicen ring replaced the tech showed me a failed oil cooler,it looked as if the the small sodders were cracked.

 

The truck has 142k miles, i can vouch for the last 42,000 that i have had that the oil and fuel filters have been changed every 5k, but who knows about the first 100k. The next oil change i am swtching from delo400 to synthetic rotella. I hope the swap to synthetic will be as great as everybody says.

 

This would be a good time to install a coolant filtration kit.

 

So is it the coolant part of the cooler that gets plugged up or the oil part???

 

+1 on what conger said. Look in the tech folder and find Beachbumcook's pics of his coolant filter cut open and see what kind of debris is floating around your cooling system. This is in the top 3 must-do mods for these trucks for a good reason, and $130 well spent.

 

most common is the coolant side but the oil side can get plugged as well with sludged oil

 

A lot of the 6.0's have casting sand left over from the process when the block was being manufactured. From what I understand this sand leeches out of the metal overtime into the cooling system. A couple of summers ago I developed an overheating problem. Had a bad EGR cooler and a partly block oil cooler. Longer story short...someone one FTE suggested the coolant bypass filter after having the work done as prevention for future problems.
The kit isn't expensive; I think I spent less than an hour installing and I couldn't believe the crap that it pulled out of a newly flushed cooling system. Sand in that filter that would have ended up in my new oil cooler. Excellent bang for the buck. Like D8 said, do a search on FTE and look at the pix.

 

Once again I cannot beat the info and advice I recieve here at FTE. Keep the info coming. Looking for parts now.

 

I saw a oil cooler kit on ebay for $200 yesterday.

 

I just finished replacing my oil cooler on my 05. The replacement kit is Ford # 3C3Z-6A642-CA and is good for 2003-2007 F and E series with the 6.0L diesel. This kit gives you the replacement cooler core and all the rubber gaskets. Got mine on E-bay for $249 cdn shipped to me. Dealer wanted $486+tax cdn.

Additional parts I required were:

1. Replacement screen in the oil resevoir directly below the oil cooler.
2. EGR Cooler/Intake manifold O-ring (original was swollen and would have ripped during install)
3. Material for oil change.
4. Material for Coolant Flush.

I reused the intake gaskets and all exhaust clamps/gaskets. Me and my buddy did it in 14-16 hours. Nothing too scary to take on yourself. Have a good 1/4" and 3/8" air ratchet, ratcheting wrenches were helpful, 8/10/11/13mm sockets, torx drivers for oil cooler assembly, o-ring picks, hose clamp removal tool or good pliers.

Follow the instructions to remove the intake in the tech folder. Don't be scared of the electrical, I didn't even mark it. 99% sure all connectors are different and can not fit into each other. We removed as much as we could and the remainder we pulled forward into the fan area to get it out of the way. I was told I did not have to remove the turbo, but we could not quite get the intake out. Pretty sure the 03's you must remove it anyway. As soon as the intake is off, plug up the holes! All I'm going to say is THANK GOD for strong magnets!!!!

Other than that, I would recommend snugging up all your exhaust clamps prior to getting the intake back on. We left the EGR Cooler/Up-pipe clamp loose and it caused an exhaust leak that was a bitch to get at.

Oh, lots of cold beer for your extra hands helping out. Gotta keep the workers happy!

Best of luck.