My ignition switch is really sloppy. You can pull the key out in any position and you can sometimes turn the switch without a key in it. It also now starts to fail to return from start to run. I can deal with this but it is getting dangerous to lend the truck to anyone that's not used to it. You can burn the starter up and / or leave the truck with the ignition on and drain the battery.

What makes this so sloppy and how do I fix it?

Thanks,

George

 

Fix this by getting a new ignition lock cylinder. Do it as soon as possible, before it breaks and cannot be turned to the on position. It is a really easy fix, unless you cannot turn the key to the on position.

The lock cylinders range in price from about $20 for a cheapo to about $100 for a nice one from Ford. Buy the best you can afford, you get what you pay for and I will explain later.

My original lock cylinder on my '94 started getting hard to turn and eventually I broke the key off in the cylinder. In a case like this, removing and replacing the cylinder with a new one is really easy and takes about 2 minutes (literally). You follow these steps:
1) Turn the ignition to the on position.
2) Look on the bottom of the steering column, directly under the ignition, and you will find a small hole. Find something to stick in the hole and depress the small pin in the hole. You should be able to feel when you got it.
3) With the pin depressed, pull the lock cylinder out of the steering column.
4) Making sure the new cylinder is turned to the on position, push it in until the pin locks it into place.

If you have the misfortune of having it break and are unable to turn it to the on position, you guessed it, you have to drill the pin out. This is not fun. A few weeks after I replaced my lock cylinder, the $20 cheapo one I put in froze up and could not be turned to the on position. I had go get the wrecker to tow my truck home (I'm a tow truck driver, so at least this was free), and drill out that stupid pin, basically it was a huge PITA. I replaced that lock cylinder with one of better quality.

Basically my advice is this, replace it as soon as possible, with a decent quality replacement. Good luck!

 

You need to replace the ign lock cylinder. Great instructions from 1994 on how to. However you may have another problem. The key not returning from the start position may be due to a bad ign switch, which you will find bolted to the side of the steering column under the dash. However do the lock cylinder first.

 

Thanks guys. How do I go about not ending up with 3 keys? Can the new cylinder be set to match my existing ignition & door key?

Thanks again!

George

 

once you change the existing ignition lock cylinder, you should have no reason to keep the original square top key. that would leave you with the original round top and a new square top.

 

Before replacing the actual ignition switch (bottom of the steering column), be aware that...

Below the lock cylinder is a brass gear, flat bearing and snap ring.

The gear controls the rod that runs from the lock cylinder down the inside of the steering column to the ignition switch.

What happens is, the brass gear is notorious for stripping! If the gear has stripped, there's prolly nothing wrong with the ignition switch. In some cases, the lock cylinder may also be OK.

FODZ3C610A .. Ignition Lock Cylinder Snap Ring.

MSRP: $4.90 // FTE sponsor PARTSGUYED.COM price: $3.53.
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F2DZ3E700A.. Ignition Lock Cylinder Flat Bearing.

MSRP: $2.45 // PARTSGUYED.COM price: $1.76.
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F2DZ3E717A .. Ignition Lock Cylinder Brass Gear.

MSRP: $24.05 // PARTSGUYED.COM price: $17.32.
======================================
geoaigel: > > 1993/94 F150/350, F(Super Duty) & Bronco: Ford offers five different ignition lock cylinders because there are five different key code cut types (A, B, C, D, E).

F3DZ11582A .. Lock Cylinder "A" Cut (Motorcraft SW2396)

MSRP: $95.76 // FTE sponsor PARTSGUYED.COM price: $51.71.
-------------------------------------------------------------
F3DZ11582B .. Lock Cylinder "B" Cut (Motorcraft SW2397).

MSRP: $96.09 // PARTSGUYED.COM price: $51.89.
-------------------------------------------------
F3DZ11582C .. Lock Cylinder "C" Cut (Motorcraft SW2398)

MSRP: $92.04 // PARTSGUYED.COM price: $49.70.
-------------------------------------------------
F3DZ11582D .. Lock Cylinder "D" Cut (Motorcraft SW2399)

MSRP: $92.04 // PARTSGUYED.COM price: $49.70.
-------------------------------------------------
F3DZ11582E .. Lock Cylinder "E" Cut (Motorcraft SW2400)

MSRP: $95.27 // PARTSGUYED.COM price: $51.44.

PARTSGUYED.com aka Y2KFORDPARTS.COM = Ed Olson, parts manager of MILLENNIUM FORD in Seattle WA.

 

He can remove the key in positions other that "off" and can rotate the key switch without the key being inserted. Surely a lock cylinder problem?

 

Yes, I agree...the lock cylinder is defective...but before replacing the actual ignition switch, it's a good idea to check that brass gear first.

As a Ford partsman from 1962 thru 1997, I sold 100's of the various types of these fracatta brass gears, snap rings and bearings, first offered on 1968 Passenger Cars.

 

Apologies. I reread the whole thing and you are right, I was wrong.

 

My truck has been doing the same thing. I could turn it on and start it without the key and take the key out in any position. Last night it seems like something broke. I could not get the truck to shut off. I had to switch to the non-operating front tank and get it to die, then pull the battery cable. I could turn the key forward and start it but not turn it back and shut it off. Now I turn the key forward to the start position and nothing happens. It's on all the time. I supposed I have to take the steering column apart? It's a tilt wheel on a 90 F150. How hard and involved is that?

 

The square top key also opens my doors. The round key only works in the tailgate. This is an issue - any solution to this? No power doors!

Thanks,

George

 

old blue 90:

Technically you should have started your own thread. Your truck has a broken ignition actuator. Looks like this:
Part costs about $12, more if you buy from the dealer.

"Upper Ignition Actuator", OEM Ford part # E9TZ 3E715 B this actuator is used for BOTH Tilt and Non-Tilt steering wheels....you can also find it in the "Help" section part # 83280 (Dorman Mfg) of most auto parts chains....costs around $10.00 out the door..

Do a search on it to find more info.

A couple of relevant threads:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...uator-rod.html
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