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How is this thing *supposed* to work, 'cause mine obviously isn't. I've removed and checked the continuity of the switch, its good. I've replaced the lock cylinder. But the actuator rod doesn't do anything when I turn the key, it's like they're not associated with each other? How is the actuator rod *supposed* to be aligned with the lock cylinder?
I had this happen to me 8 hours away from home in a Wendy's parking lot.
The part was $18.00 Canadian from a Ford dealer, but you have to tear appart the steering column to get at it. I was luck enough to have a friend who knew what he was doing to help me.
Dang. That may well be it. What's the name of the part? And is the steering wheel retaining nut 15/16" standard or something metric? 7/8" is too small and 1" is too large...
Sure enough, that's what happened... But mine's boken in two places. I'll post pics once I have the (#@*@#^#%*@# thing(s) out.
BTW, you know what would be *really* cool? If Chilton or Haynes would have diagrams of these things... Do the shop manuals have detailed tear-down diagrams of things like the steering column? I'm sitting here trying to reverse-engineer it and afraid I'm going to unscrew something and create serious problems
Glad to see that you know what the problem is, and got it out ok... I had left my Haynes manual at home, so I went to the parts store to find another one. I'm glad it looked through it before I bought it!
Good luck getting it back together in time tomorrow.
Mine had broken a while back and apparently according to the dealer it's quite common for Broncos. He said they always keep them in stock. It really wasn't that difficult to install. I got the dealer to print out the diagram of how it goes in for me. It was slightly helpful but probably could have done it without it.
But you have to take off the C-clip from the shaft and remove the pivoting part from the steering column, right? I'm stuck there now. I can't get the right pin out.
In case anyone else winds up doing this and seeing this thread, whatever you do, do NOT mess up those pins that hold the pivoting part of the steering column together.
From what I was told at Ford it only happens with tilt wheel, most people will pull on the steering wheel when getting into the Bronco's and F150's and over a period of time it will cause the actuator to break.
Yeah. My interior has all kinds of wear and tear from the previous owner (a significantly larger gentleman than I). So I keep on finding these kinds of things. What I don't understand is why they don't make the piece out of something a little harder. I tore off part of my old one with a pair of cheap vise-grips. Ideally, if you know your part is breaking, you would do something to stop it from happening in the future. I guess they figure $12.85 swindled is $12.85 earned...
So I have everything back together and everything works properly... except the shifter display. I can shift between gears, the reverse lights come on, everything is good. But the colored bit on the shifter display is stuck between N and D no matter what gear I'm in (right now it's in Park with the parking brake on, and it still says N/D). I'm guessing I disconnected something while I had it all torn apart, but I don't know what? Any ideas on where to start looking?
There is a small cable hanging from under the right side of the shift display. At the end of it, there is a piece of white plastic and then a loop. The white plastic screws into the column, and the loop goes over a little black post. (see picture) The white plastic is used to adjust the postition of the shift indicator - loosen the screw and slid it back and forth until the orange indicator is in the right place, and tighten the screw again.
Okay, thanks! Now I have to figure out what size that screw is. (I broke it replacing the actuator rod. When I called the dealership to find out, the parts guy said, "Yeah, see that star next to the part number, that means 'Improvise'." That makes me feel REAL good.)
I was lucky, mine broke when i went to shut the truck off at the store, i turned pulled the key out and realized that the truck was still running, so i just drove home and un-hooked the battery and the truck died, that's when I realized that my alternator was bad LOL
I just paid the mobile colomn repair guy $75 to come to my house and fix it.
Took him about a half hour and he needed a few handy specialty tools to do it that fast.
On the subject of these actuators, apparently Ford has stopped producing them. Many dealers will still have them in stock for a while though. They are so prone to breaking in trucks and Broncos that sharp parts managers have them stockpiled.
Happily someone else started reproducing them. Unhappily the "someones" are apparently Chinese and made the "shaft" too big. It can be filed/sanded to the correct size but it sucks to do. My local parts guy (ex Ford parts manager) discovered these and ordered a whole box of them. After the first two he sold were returned as not fitting he examined them and sent the whole box back to the supplier. Perhaps the manufacturer will attempt to make some that actually fit. We don't know yet. Their quality control department already has one big strike against them. A new version may still not be worth buying. If/when new ones come out you can bet we'll be giving them a very close examination. I need one but have been holding off on buying a Ford part to be a test mule on the new repros. IF they ever show up.
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