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3G Alternator Wiring Help

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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 02:10 PM
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3G Alternator Wiring Help

The previous owner had some sort of upgraded wiring setup but it wasn't done very well. There were wires basically everywhere and it's impossible to figure out. Not to mention the alternator catching on fire the second day I had it..but anyway..

I bought a 130 amp 3G alternator, 175A fuse, and good wiring. I've installed everything I can figure out up to this point, and it feels like the only thing remaining is to connect the power wire for the alternator. I'm not sure where to get this power wire from because of the confusing setup the previous owner had. Here are some pictures:


Part of my new setup. 175 amp fuse with fuse holder, starter solenoid with wires running to battery(+) and starter. I'm just posting this to verify it is all correct, if there is a problem please point it out.


More of the new setup, showing the battery(-) cable hopefully going to the correct spot, and the alternator power wire that I need to hook up.


This is what wiring is left for me to figure out in the truck. This is what is left after I removed all the crazy wiring of the previous owner. There are two harness connectors and two wires with plugs on the end. I'm assuming those two wires plug into the lugs on the front of the starter solenoid, as the previous setup had. Is this correct? I also THINK that I've found the correct green/red power wire from a stock alternator setup, as I've pointed out in the picture.

If this is the correct wire to plug into the alternator, what do I do with the rest of the wiring? There is a white wire on the same harness as the green/red one, what happens to that wire? Also, what about the three wires on the other harness? One of them is rather thick so it seems important. I get the feeling this thick wire needs to connect to a ring terminal and then connect to the battery lug of the starter solenoid. Is this right?


Finally, most of the previous alternator wiring pieces I pulled from the previous owner's setup. It is very confusing and a lot of winding around. I'm not sure if I have to re-use any of this or not.

Thanks in advance for any help offered. After doing some research I think I have the right idea(cut that red/green wire from picture 3, connect it to my alternator wire from picture 2) but I'm not sure if there is an additional wire that needs to go to the starter solenoid that I'm missing.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 05:50 PM
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You have the right idea....





As you see, loop the yellow/white wire to the + post on the alternator and then connect the red/green from the ALT to the red/green in the wiring harness.

Then you're done.

Super easy and puts out plenty of juice.

Josh
 
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
As you see, loop the yellow/white wire to the + post on the alternator and then connect the red/green from the ALT to the red/green in the wiring harness.
Is the red/green wire I pointed out in picture 3 the correct one?

If so, what happens to the rest of the wires? That would leave 4 wires sort of 'stranded':

1) the white wire on the same harness as the red/green wire.
2) the red wire on the 3-wire harness.
3) the thin yellow/black wire on the 3-wire harness.
4) the thick yellow/black wire on the 3-wire harness.

Are they unnecessary with the new setup? I've seen pictures indicate that some wire has to attach to the battery lug of the starter solenoid. I believe it's either #3 or #4 I just mentioned.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 11:20 PM
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Connect the THICK black/yellow wire to the + of the solenoid, the rest are uneeded.

Except for the the two wires mentioned I left everything else alone so I could easily replace the 1G alternator if I really had to.

Here is my alternator and wiring harness I removed.



Keep in mind with this set-up the useless Ammeter is now truly useless and will not indicate anything anymore.

Josh
 
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 11:24 PM
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I forgot to mention the thick blk/yellow wire is the MAIN wire for the entire harness.

Josh
 
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 12:11 AM
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Great, thanks a lot! Repped.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 11:29 AM
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How do you idenify a 130 amp 3g as opposed to the 120 amp and 90 amp ? Do they have to be tested ?
 
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 06:17 PM
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90% of the alternators are 90 amp, the other 30% are 130 amp. No 120 amp models for 3G, there are 120 amp 2G and 4G models though.

It should say on the rear plastic portion what the alternator is rated for, or you can have it bench tested (which should be done anyways with a junkyard piece)

Josh
 
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 09:22 PM
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I am missing something here. I am looking at my wiring. The main line to/from alt splits. One end goes into a plug (the one with the ? in the photo), and the other end goes to starter relay.

If you run a straight line to the s.relay, how does power get to the cab?
 
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer
I am missing something here. I am looking at my wiring. The main line to/from alt splits. One end goes into a plug (the one with the ? in the photo), and the other end goes to starter relay.

If you run a straight line to the s.relay, how does power get to the cab?
You run a new wire from the + to the thick black/yellow main wire.

Josh
 
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
You run a new wire from the + to the thick black/yellow main wire.

Josh
right off the relay.

Nice truck, btw.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer
right off the relay.

Nice truck, btw.
A lot of posting going on in multiple threads...

Thick black/yellow wire to positive side of starter solenoid with 175 amp fuse which will also have the main power wire coming from the alternator.

Red/green to red/green

Josh
 
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