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The electronics guys that build my flow bench controller (which uses an IDM) said they beilieve it's possible to bump to 160v (which is very easy to do) but they are not sure how long the rest of the components would last. It might be seconds, hours or thousands of hours of run time. Nobody has tried, too much $$$ to mess up. 140v is very reasonable as far as the rest of the stuff goes, but 160v is just pushing it.
Also, there comes a point when the solenoid/Poppet might just not react any quicker. 140v might be all it takes to make them as fast as they will be. Not sure...
I read on a past post it has to do with the DC voltage limitations of the capacitors. I don't have a IDM to open but if someone does look at those big tall round capacitors and most have the rating printed. Usually it would say 160VDC or 180VDC .. etc. Start to approach or exceed that rating and "pow", it shorts out and IDM is dead.
Thanks Brown Falcon for the link. I read through the whole thing and found my post in there regarding going bigger. Once again it was Jim that set me straight. Thank you again Jim. Stay at 140v and all will be safe.
something about that. what would the 110v IDM go into???? not the SD and not our trucks so i don't think there was a 110v, but there was a 90v.. LoL. idk about the 100v either. never heard of those 2. 90v, 120v, then the modded 140v is all i know about
ya there is a 100 i just put a 120 in mine and it had a 100 that took a crap ,and before that i had a 110 in it.
Simply changing the wattage of the resistor allows more voltage? Something doesn't seem right... Could some one please explain. V=IR Maybe I am missing something?
actually they change the resistance too. although I dont understand why BF used a resistor with leads rather than putting a 75kohm SMD back in there. they are available from the website they mentioned and well if you have the skill to unsolder a smd you could also solder in a smd. If I ever do that mod I'll probably use one of these: Digi-Key - PT75.0KAFCT-ND (Manufacturer - ERJ-1TNF7502U)
actually they change the resistance too. although I dont understand why BF used a resistor with leads rather than putting a 75kohm SMD back in there. they are available from the website they mentioned and well if you have the skill to unsolder a smd you could also solder in a smd. If I ever do that mod I'll probably use one of these: Digi-Key - PT75.0KAFCT-ND (Manufacturer - ERJ-1TNF7502U)
The 7502 smd chip is what should be there. I am wondering what else is different because the table that was shown earlier in this post shows a 110 and a 120 both using a 75k ohm 1/4 watt resistor... Did I miss read the table?
IDM-100 uses a 75.0k Ohm (75,000 ohm) 1/2 watt 1% tolerance Metal Film resistor
IDM-110 uses a 75.0k Ohm (75,000) 1/2 watt 1% tolerance Metal Film resistor
IDM-120 uses a 73.2k Ohm (73,200) 1/2 watt 1% tolerance Metal Film resistor
Here is the table again. They show 1/2 watt for each.
I spaced it out ok SMD (surface mount design) so if you have a 100 or a 110 you need a 75k ohm if you have a 120 you need a 73.2k ohm. AS far as wattage I would have to do a little looking around to see if there is a surface mount 1/2 watt resistor and if it would fit the area that is on the board. the one on there is a 1/4 watt SMD chip I am not sure that a 1/4 watt smd chip would work I believe the resistors that everyone is using must come in 1/2 watt format and that is why they use them. I will see if I can find one at Mouser or something.
I got that resistor for free from another member who did the mod before I did. That's the way I saw to do it when I originally saw the mod done in Diesel Power a while back. Works the same as a surface mount, just easier to solder in. No problems with it at all...