Update!

Spoke with the shop today - well, they finally put a "breakout box" on the PCM.
This is a trouble shooting box (tool) that connects between the PCM box and the PCM connector. With this one can access virtually all the various connections to determine if there are any shorts, opens, bad relays, etc. in order to isolate the problem.

They are suspecting a short somewhere. Hopefully tomorrow they will be successful.

If one reviews the manual for each of the DTC's set, they all say "If all those particular codes are present, then go to Pin Point FJ6 to start trouble shooting." Sort of thought that is where they should have started initially - I'm just a "Shade Tree" guy and they are the "Professionals".

The shop claims the fuel pressure is 50+ psig, so the fuel pump should be good. I do not think they were able to perform the injector buzz test.
Intermittent short/open type electrical issues are difficult to resolve, but when it is present all the time finding the culprit should be fairly straight forward - easy for me to say.

Will continue this again tomorrow and/or until the fix is resolved.

Thanks again,

 

I would very politely explain to them that you have access to the real shop manual and you're really not interested in paying them by the hour to just poke around and ignore what the manual is telling them to do unless they have darn good reason for the change.

Remember the professional mechanic is used to dealing with all different makes and models. You're probably more familiar with the 7.3 than he is. This has got to be frustrating for you since you knew 2 days ago which wire to check for a short based on the codes. Hopefully tomorrow they check the wire and we can move on from there.

 

Final Update!
I got a call for an emergency trip out of town mid-afternoon last Wednesday.
Was going to use a company pool car, so I called the diesel shop for the status of my truck repair.
Low-n-behold it was repaired!
We had some discussion about their time on the repair (16 hours), butt they offered to split it with me and I would pay for 8 hours - I agreed.
No direct repair parts involved.
Turns out they found a power plug in the back of my fuse panel had somehow come out of its socket enough to loose contact - I guess that was my "jerky motion" I noticed several time each way to work and home for approx. two weeks.
They had a breakout box on it and the mechanic was under the dash and ran his hand on back of the fuse panel and jiggled that plug and wala, it started.
I would have thought the trouble shooting would have identified a lack of power source in a critical circuit. Oh well.
I picked up the truck in a hurry to head out of town and didn't pay any attention to my bill since "I thought it was all labor and taxes" - WRONG.
I did not look the invoice over until I arrived at the hotel Thursday a.m.
They had replace my CKP sensor plug on the harness and my AIS air breather filter indicator - total parts there was approx. $27.
I had told them to let me know of any parts required before replacing them!
Money is not the issue - it is attention to details!
I found a secondary wiring harness on the driver's fender well that had not been put back into its original position with three plastic push pins - nothing major, but again, the lack of attention to details.
I called the guys up and explained the situation and my concern for their lack of detail and suggested in the future the shop foreman do a visual inspection of the mechanic's work before moving the truck to the front for pickup.
It just goes to show that you must stay on top of them and not ASSUME anything.
I am very happy that it was not a lot of labor costs plus parts costs and I am tickled I have my truck back.
I also appreciate all of the FTE folks' support and discussion with this issue.
As I have said many times "look for the simple stuff first".
By the way, I had pulled out my Super Gold chip prior to carrying the truck to the shop - had to drive on the trip without the chip.
Bummer, that truck was a dog without the chip - will put it back in tomorrow!

Thanks again FTE friends,

 

I have a 2002 F-350 with 7.3L Diesel and 237,000 miles on it. It is having the same problem as lhuds' truck. I have already changed the CPS and glow plug relay. It still wo't start. HELLLLP!!!!! Roger

 

You might want to describe you problem a little better. Does it crank over? Are you getting a wait to start light?

 

Thanks for the quick reply! Cranks great, wait to start light works fine, battery at 13.6 volts, oil was 1 qt low (that has been taken car of), coolant level good. My hands are in the air!

 

I would see if you are getting fuel. You can put a hose on the drain tube then turn on the key and you should get a pressurized flow of fuel when the drain valve is opened. Probably be better if you could check the fuel pressure. Other than that it is a guessing game. Probably need to get it scanned for codes.

 

Fuel presure is good and only code that shows up is P0340. I hace already changed the CPS and the code returned while trying to start. Took that back and got another one and the same code shows up again. Spoke with a diesel mechanic at Fort Worth dealership and he said that after so many cranks without starting that the CPS code always shows. Trial and error! It is frustrating.

 

If the PCM is seeing an RPM signal, I don't see how it would set a CPS code. Are you using Ford CPS or one from the parts stores? Might be time to check the pins in the CPS connector to make sure they're not burnt or loose. Also check to make sure the little rubber gasket in the connector didn't fall out.

 

Here we go everybody! Get ready for this! I went ahead and took the truck to the dealership. They could not get the truck started either BUT the PCM had a P1298 code for an IDM failure. Then I was told there were a few other sensors that would need to be replaced but they would not know which ones until the IDM is replaced. I then asked how much the IDM part would cost and they replied, "Well the IDM would be $940.00, with labor your looking at $1,300.00. That will include reprogamming once installed." That really p*ssed me off, especially since then I found out that the IDM they wanted to install was a remanufactered one. I have found remanufactered IDMs' from F*rd authorized suppliers online ranging from $265 to $550. These suppliers told me that dealerships want (your money) customers to think they are the professionals and actually lie to them. Each supplier I spoke with told me the same thing, nothing would have to be reprogrammed. Simply unplug the old one and plug in the new one then follow the instructions provided. I went to the F*ord Haus and paid the 90 bucks for a diagnostic and took my truck home. I haven't replaced the IDM yet. Once I have, you can bet I will be updating this post. An odd part about the F*ord Haus diagnostic and my diagnostic though.... My diagnostic did not give me a P1298 trouble code. Hmmm!


P.S. For $1300.00 you can almost replace all of the electronics youself, including the PCM and IDM, in the 02 F-350 7.3 diesel. They are all plug-n-play anymore!

 

Whats the guage cluster doing while cranking? do you see the oil pressure coming up after cranking a bit? If its cranking I'd doubt it could be the power wire from the batt to the fuse/relay box. . . but check it anyway. There is a junction box just below the airbox. . . it is simply a stud with two cable eyelets on it. Check that connection for corrosion.
Timmy

 

Fantasic! I unplugged the Camshaft position sensor and it had a little oil in it. Cleaned it using B12 Chemtool. Found a leak in the right bank fuel return line at the back of the head. Removed line and replaced gasket inside of fittings. The truck started! Now it will not turn off using the ignition switch. To turn it off required disconnecting the glow plug solenoid after turning off switch. The following DTC's showing now are:
P0237 - Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Low
P0380 - Glow Plug Circuit A Malfunction
P1690 - Wastegate Solenoid Circuit Malfunction

Where should I start?
I never changed the IDM. Going back to the Ford Haus Monday and THEY WILL GIVE ME THE 90 BUCKS BACK FOR THE UNDIAGNOSTIC! They will be reported to the BBB along with a letter to the editor!

Thanks

 

Clear the codes and ignore them. Which wire are you pulling off the GPR to get the truck to stop? The truck still running after the key is turned off will probably not set a code. I'd start by checking the ignition switch.

When you turn the key off, do the gauges and radio shut off?

 

Pulled the activation wires off of the GPR and switched them left to right and right to left. IT fixed the problem. The truck starts and shuts off using the ignition switch now BUT..........it dies after warming up! It seems to have something to do with the turbo. When the turbo tries to kick in that is when the truck dies. I also have a check engine and ABS light on when the truck is started. I am going to test the wastegate actuator and check to see if the tubo wheel is spinning freely without hitting the housing. The following DTC's are still showing:
P0237 - Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Low
P0380 - Glow Plug Circuit A Malfunction
P1690 - Wastegate Solenoid Circuit Malfunction