ATS or Hypermax
A wastegated turbo can be more agressive making boost at lower RPM since the wastegate can open at higher RPM preventing overboost and head gasket failure.
So the question boils down to are you running at MAX RPM all the time?
If so a non wastegated turbo will do fine.
However if you are running at a lower RPM and still want boost, a wastegated turbo is the only way to go.
I've heard nothing but good things about the customer support for hypermax so far. Price is lower too.
However, I have no first hand experience with either of the new kits. I am running an older 1988 model ATS kit that is non wastegated. It does the job, but I wish it would spool a bit more.
For peak boost, none of the kits are really efficient out of the box much higher than 10 PSI. If you want more, you will have to start modding the turbo kit.
EDIT: dyoung, those are exactly the numbers my old ATS setup can make without smoking. I can push more fuel to get slightl more boost, but coal starts rolling at that point.
If I was to choose between the other 2 I'd go with HyperMax because of the pulse design and costomer friendly support. One thing I do like about the ATS is the turbo mount pedestal instead of a flex drain tube.
Which ever you choose a turbo really wakes these diesels up, hands down the best mod you can do.
Those numbers are approximate, since RPM and boost numbers do change rather fast.
Like I said, if the non wastegated turbos made boost like a wastegated turbo does, you would blow the head gaskets at max RPM.
Granted since I have internal engine mods, I have my wastegate set up to run higher boost.
But even if it was set to run 15 PSI max boost, I can see that down at RPM that I can use.
When you are starting out at the bottom of a big hill, if your load is heavy enough you may not see 3300 RPM going up the hill.
Why wait till max RPM to have good boost numbers?
If you compare the numbers above, by 2000 RPM I have the same amount of boost that you have to wait to 3300 RPM to see.
But then again, that boost at lower RPM's does contribute to the broken U joints and stuff like that.
Remember marketing.
If I make a non wastegated turbo could I sell any if I said the wastegated versions offered by the competition were better?
At low RPM and boost, the wastegate is closed, so it makes no difference to the turbo or engine if it is there.
When boost starts approaching the safe max boost for the engine, the wastegate starts to open letting exhaust bypass the turbo which is robbing HP.
But my question here is, if the boost is as high as the engine can stand, is the turbo robbing HP or saving your head gaskets?
Looking at 10 PSI at 1500 RPM versus 2 PSI at 1500 RPM, now which one is robbing HP?
Both turbos are a fine addition to the IDI engine.
Part of the selection process has to take into consideration what RPM you intend to operate your engine at.
And again on the marketing thing.
Ford used ATS to pattern the stock turbo system after.
Considering the total cost of the systems, ATS is one of the most expensive of the bunch.
Banks put out a higher cost package, but it was complete.
ATS turbo was cheaper, but add in the boost gauge, pyrometer and complete exhaust system and they were right there with or slightly higher than Banks.
If you were manufacturing 200,000 trucks with turbos installed on IDI engines why would they pick the most expensive system to use?
Saving 500 per turbo would only put an extra million dollars in the company bank account.
Going a bit farther, consider both Banks and ATS started with non wastegated turbos.
Why did both companies spend the R&D money to come up with and then factory re-tooling money to produce the wastegated turbo if it did not have advantages over the non wastegated versions they already had?
My truck will reach 8~9 PSI at 2500 with a worn pump and no fuel system mods (I made it to 14 PSI once loooong ago). It reaches 10 shortly after and basically stays there until I bump the governor. I don't need 3300 to see 10 PSI. Based on Dyno results from others, power can actually be lost if you go to 15 PSI without an intercooler. ATS cautions against overboosting for this reason somewhere in their documentation.
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That is 2.5 times the air pressure at that low RPM.
8 or 9 at 2500 versus 10 at 2800, so as we reach the high end of the boost and RPM range, the non waste gated turbo is starting to get close to the waste gated turbo and they are even at the high end of the RPM range.
But how much time do you spend above 2500 RPM?
Even though fuel prices have dropped considerably from what they were, they are again starting to creap up very close to 3.00 a gallon.
So I make a consious effort to keep my top speeds down, RPM's below 2500 and lighter throttle applications to keep the smoke to a minimum or non existant.
Saves dollars at the fuel pump.
Yes, with my fuel system I can get plenty of fuel to the cylinders to make more boost at lower RPM's so my numbers are extreme and I am getting rather dark smoke to get numbers that high when I stand on the throttle.
Lighter throttle foot, at 1500 I see 5 or 6 PSI with no smoke, so the choice is mine when I want the extra power.
As for the intercooler, for now the ram air cooling will have to do.
Does the power drop off above 15 PSI?
I don't think that is exactly how I would word it, but that is basically true.
The extra boost above 15 PSI, actually closer to 18 or 20 since I lower the compression ratio still makes more power.
But not at the rate it did below let's say 19 PSI for conversations sake.
So now you say, then why run it that high.
The temp increase in the intake air starts to limit power increase rate, but the extra flow drops the EGT's.
So I am still getting benefit even though it may not all be more power.
What it is doing is letting me run that power level longer without cooking the pistons.
I am working on a way to run an intercooler, but that is still down the road a way.
From my winter experiments with extremely cold air going in the intake I know there is a lot more power I could be making with an intercooler.
Part of what has me worried is the power ceiling will move higher, and the EGT ceiling may move higher with the power ceiling.
That would be bad news, since the length of time I could use the extra power would decrease.
Lots of variables to take into consideration when you start pushing the envelope.
I built this engine as an experiment to see if I could apply things I have seen in other engines to the IDI.
So far I am pleased, even if I did have a couple setbacks in the beginning like the blown valley pan gasket and exhaust manifold gaskets.
But I still say there is one hard fast rule.
For a stock engine with a boost ceiling of say 15 PSI, the faster you get there and lower the RPM is when you get there, the more useful the power is in normal driving.
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I've heard nothing but good things about the customer support for hypermax so far. Price is lower too.
However, I have no first hand experience with either of the new kits. I am running an older 1988 model ATS kit that is non wastegated. It does the job, but I wish it would spool a bit more.
For peak boost, none of the kits are really efficient out of the box much higher than 10 PSI. If you want more, you will have to start modding the turbo kit.
EDIT: dyoung, those are exactly the numbers my old ATS setup can make without smoking. I can push more fuel to get slightl more boost, but coal starts rolling at that point.
From everything I've read of other IDI owners that install intercoolers, they basically can't reach the danger zone temp anymore. Raw PSI drops because of less thermal buildup in the intake, but power goes up across the range. Even down at 2 psi they say there is a big difference.
Thinking of adding one some day, but its not easy on the 1980 bodystyle and time is against me.
Yeah, Justin has all the best Utube IDI videos.
It may not matter to too many of those here, but for those of us out west with the big hills it makes a serious difference when you pass that little sign on the side of the road that says "elevation 7200 feet"











