Instructions say two people are needed and when you get to the last (rear) piece that is almost the case. That piece took me over an hour to get in due to the curvature and the window seal.

 

Appears took your time with the installation and it came out looking good, now energized to get off my backside and purchase headliner for the 65.

 

That looks great! is that a DC headliner? I took mine out a couple of years ago thinking I would make a pattern to replace it. Never happened and it got too busted up to use. Did you put any sound insulation behind it?

 

Nice job Mike! any tip's for guy's like me who need to do there install?

 

I got the headliner from Sacramento Vintage about 3 years ago. Before I installed the roof was cleaned since I did paint the front interior and top of the cab. Just didn't do behind the gas tank. Then insulation was glued to the top. The large front piece is easy to slip into the front clips. You must make good measurements from in front of the mirror base to the brace in the middle which has a screw hole. Same from one side so you can locate the hole with a hole punch on your first try. To double check I used a very thin allen wrench and poked through the perforated holes to make sure I was on. Then using tape on the sides I had already marked where the screw holes should be for the chrome trim which goes on top.

Next the two corner pieces go in and I mixed 4 parts ammonia with 1 part water and sprayed the backside. After a few minutes the board was pliable and I could press it into place. The front edge goes behind the chrome trim while the back lower and upper corner had two black trim screws with washer that secured them in place. The gasket wouldn't necessarily hold the board flush against the cab by itself so there were holes where i mentioned. I didn't have any board left but I still had those trim screws left in place. Once again a thin allen wrench comes in handy as there was no way to measure and an extra hand would have been nice but I managed.

The back piece has a curve along the long end so that needed to be sprayed well and then I started to slip it behind the gasket. Be aware that there are cutouts in the board and tabs in the metal above the window for you to center. If not you can't get the panel down low enough to place the front edge into the clips you placed on the back edge of the front piece. This is the part that took time and I would suggest widening and deepening those cutouts a bit before starting. Plus there is that tool which looks like a punch but has a twist at the end. This worked well to lift the gasket edge and be able to slide along the gasket. Now the front edge can be seen behind the clips the two front corners just behind the chrome trim and the back corners held by the trim screw that was in the small corner piece. I can post pictures of the placement of these screws if needed.

 

Cool I'll pick up some tri tip and a coupla cases of beer when your ready to do mine LOL

Really: thats looks awesome man, really good!!! You should be plenty proud of the end result!

 

Looks good!! I'd like to replace mine now I know it's not original. Did a bit of poking around and the original is underneath, full of tears. Now on the to do list!

Chris

 

After a couple of cases of beer we'll be lucky if we can tell the back piece from the front piece and locate all the clips...

 

Looks very nice.
Question, why the 4 parts ammonia 1 part water to soften it up?
I understand the softening up part but why ammonia?

 

Why ammonia? This might explain it. A patent was issued in 1994 to use a process involving ammonia to bend wood up to a 1/4" thick. Water and steam had been used to achieve limited flexibility when used with extensive mechanical force. Cellulose and the cross linking of it is what makes wood strong by using water molecules with the hydrogen bond on sites between cellulose chains. Ammonia is a scavenger of water and the idea was that ammonia would scavenge water, break the cross link bonds and allow the cellulose chains to slide over one another making the wood flexible. Extreme mechanical force is not needed and the effect is temporary. When the ammonia evaporates water vapor will reestablish cross linking and rigidity. Cardboard is cellulose.

How to Restore Your Ford Pick-Up - Google Books

 

Hmmmm

So you mean the foam core sign board headliner in mine is not original?

 

Can't blame ya fer tryin'!

 

Rep points: only wish you had posted that when I was trying to bend the OAK gunbwale caps for the 57 DelMar didn't work out so well LOL

 

What kind of mechanical force is that???

 

Ahh, learn something new everyday. Thanks for the lesson tbm3fan.....will come in handy when I get ready to install a new liner in my '65