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my concern is if I go with a filter/water seperator I will add more work for the pump. pulling and pushing. since i have not changed the fuel bowl and stock water seperator do I need two water seperators?
or go with a good fuel strainer that would take the place of the one in the tank you remove on the mod.
dam choices and which way to go.
also the fuel line from the tank to the new filter. trying to decide on that one too.
Yes, that's what I meant. Which one should I go with?
Depends on what type of filter you want to run. I chose the Strictly diesel kit because I wanted to run a spin-on and did not want to do a DIY kit. I like the kit and have been running it for three years.
If I had to do it again I would piece it like I did. Just don't over spend on the rubber fuel line. From Napa it was like $5 a foot and they really couldn't tell me what it was rated for. From autozone the recommended fuel injection line was under $2 a foot. If you haven't looked at it.get find my write up on the Racor ps120-02. I like this filter/strainer the best. The little plastic one that a lot of people use just didn't work for.me because the ends crush. Also make sure you order a new foot. I did not and regreted it. If you dont need it I will buy it from you. I did not do the "bend" on the in tank return line I.left it how it was when I took the screens off and have not had any problems with air in my fuel. I watch my fuel pressure gauge to monitor it.
Dennis's kit is very nice in function, fit and finish. David's kit isn't nearly as pretty, but it does function.
I was determined to go my own route and after looking through my Baldwin filter book forever, I called and ended up talking to a filter engineer at Baldwin about what filter to use for my DIY kit.
I ended up with the exact same filter that David uses because I wanted something clear that I could do a quick visual on. The engineer said that since the engine already had a fuel filtration system in place, what I needed was something to stop any big stuff that might clog or damage the fuel pump. He said 100 microns would be more than adequate for this application.
For 200 bucks I expected perfection, since that's a pretty penny for some fittings, 2 brackets, a section of fuel line a filter and filter manifold.
The fittings, nylon-locking nuts, fuel line (braided cloth covering), SS tubing, mounting brackets, all nice quality. I appreciate the effort that goes into gathering all of these parts, bending and cutting the tubing, plus the instructions and in theory the fact that they have tested the kit and assured it would work. That’s why I paid $200. That's the positive.
The problem is the instructions. My god, what is with the long paragraphs with reference to parts which have no associated photographs? "Install the second PC10 pinch clamp and 06NC-06FJX onto the remaining hose". Did They call a part "6NC-06FJX"? Those are supposed to be PUSHLOCK Hose Ends yes? I didn’t get any of those in my kit. I don’t think I did.
Figure 4 in the instructions is labelled "cutting the hose clamp". I don’t see a clamp being cut. I see a bunch of parts put together.
I could go on and on, but I’m not making money writing this review.
Bottom line is someone at Driven Diesel /Strictly Diesel needs to spend a day rewriting these instructions, adding some pictures of parts with names and simply add more pictures which help make clear how things are supposed to fit together. For example: What angle is the new long SS fuel return line supposed to be clamped at. It’s sort of evident in Figure 6. But it needs to be clearer. Maybe it doesn’t matter, in which case, just say so.
Other comments and suggestions to the vendor:
- The braided fuel line, thanks, I love it, but trying to get it to expand over the fuel line shoulder on top of the sending unit is almost impossible unless you cut the braiding off, which is of course risky because you can damage the rubber line.
- Fuel Filter Head is not made in the USA. (BTW, I dont care if it is or not, but its not). The one you sent me was made in China.
-The filter head / manifold has to be blocked with 2 "end caps" which are provided but an H10 allen key is needed. That's quite large, and many may not have that handy.
- They included Loctite for the Nylok nuts. Thanks. I did appreciate that detail, but you should have gone the next step and added some Teflon tape appropriate for fuel. (2 disposable plastic fuel line tools to disconnect the fuel line into the fuel pump and out of and into the sending unit/assembly would have been super cool.)
Lastly, the braided fuel line; If this was really top notch, you would have had OEM style push lock fuel fittings made in lieu of using generic fuel line with hose clamps. I'm not saying the hose clamps wont stay tight, but that would have been "next level" stuff.
They ask a premium price and I paid it; to get a tested design, detailed instructions, top notch materials. I think I got very good materials and hopefully a tested design. They need to work on the instructions.
Lex, thanks for sharing the write up and pics. I was wondering if it was just me that couldn't get the fuel line on like the instructional picture...I'm inclined to believe their install involved a tubing cutter to get rid of the shoulder - tried soaking the hose in hot water as they suggested and was able to only get it on just far enough to put a hose clamp on either side of the shoulder.
Just wondering at this point if you felt there were positive gains from the install? Any issues with the filter components, etc.
I'm troubleshooting an intermittent fuel delivery issue so this was just part of the upstream mods being performed. Also doing a rebuild on my fuel bowl/filter housing and drain valve, Riffraff's FRx and HPx, and IPR rebuild.
Just wondering at this point if you felt there were positive gains from the install? Any issues with the filter components, etc.
Well yes I did have some positive results but they may or may not have anything to do with the external filter. My truck had 210k miles on the original internal filter (which was filthy) and an original fuel pump.
My fuel pressure increased by 4-6 pounds at the fuel bowl with the new pump and external filter. Which one is the responsible party? I couldn't tell ya because I did them at the same time.
Sorry to bring up an old thread, I wish I had seen this review sooner, as I would have responded then. None the less, I guess it's never too late. I will try to address your concerns point by point.
Originally Posted by Lex2002
The problem is the instructions. My god, what is with the long paragraphs with reference to parts which have no associated photographs? "Install the second PC10 pinch clamp and 06NC-06FJX onto the remaining hose". Did They call a part "6NC-06FJX"? Those are supposed to be PUSHLOCK Hose Ends yes? I didn’t get any of those in my kit. I don’t think I did.
At the top of page 2 is a parts list, with columns for QUANTITY, PART NUMBER and DESCRIPTION. That is provided so that we can refer to parts by their part number, as opposed to saying "pick up the brass hose end". It also makes it easier for someone to contact us about a missing part or damage part that they might need to replace...as those part numbers match up with what is in our accounting system and make ordering easier.
Yes, you received (2) pushlok hose ends. They are used to attach the hoses to the filter head (which gets 2 adapter fittings that provide AN style connections so the filter head is serviceable if needed), as shown in figure 12 of the instructions (which can be found here: https://www.strictlydiesel.com/image...3FS-TKF-v3.pdf).
Originally Posted by Lex2002
Figure 4 in the instructions is labelled "cutting the hose clamp". I don’t see a clamp being cut. I see a bunch of parts put together.
The clamp that needs to be cut is shown in figure 4. This is a crimped clamp that connects the "u" shaped hose from the return tube to the mixing valve assembly. You must have cut this clamp off to complete your installation, as you have to install the long S.S. return tube with the #5 compression fitting in its place.
Originally Posted by Lex2002
For example: What angle is the new long SS fuel return line supposed to be clamped at. It’s sort of evident in Figure 6. But it needs to be clearer. Maybe it doesn’t matter, in which case, just say so.
Just needs to clear the float assembly, typically installed perpendicular to the floor of the fuel tank.
Originally Posted by Lex2002
The braided fuel line, thanks, I love it, but trying to get it to expand over the fuel line shoulder on top of the sending unit is almost impossible unless you cut the braiding off, which is of course risky because you can damage the rubber line.
Yes, this is the most difficult step in the process. It isn't the outside braid that is giving you the problems, the hose we supply is pushlok, so it has a very strong inner braid. The hot water trick with some lubricant is what we usually do, it does take some force but most people manage to get it in place without needing to call us. We have used the same hose and the same kit design for many years, we feel that the quality and durability of this hose outweighs the minor difficulty it poses during installation.
Originally Posted by Lex2002
Fuel Filter Head is not made in the USA. (BTW, I dont care if it is or not, but its not). The one you sent me was made in China.
There was a mistake on the website regarding this that was corrected quite some time ago, but maybe after you posted this. We did use the USA made filter heads for a while, and we had to return about 80% of the 500+ heads we ordered because the center nipple was pressed in at an angle and the filter wouldn't seal to the flange. You can only take so much of this before you fix the problem, and since WIX couldn't seem to get it fixed, we went back to the Hastings heads that were nicer quality and ALWAYS had a straight nipple. This change actually COST US MORE, the hastings heads are quite a bit more expensive than the WIX, but as much as it pained us to move away from US made products (always a goal for us), it wasn't nearly as bad as the pain of getting calls from customers that couldn't get their filter to stop leaking, or the pain of having to open EVERY SINGLE filter head and screw a filter on to see if the gasket contacted the sealing surface evenly.
Originally Posted by Lex2002
The filter head / manifold has to be blocked with 2 "end caps" which are provided but an H10 allen key is needed. That's quite large, and many may not have that handy.
As a DIYer that isn't paying a shop to install your parts, it should be expected that sometimes a new tool will need to be purchased. The allen style plug used in that 1/2" NPT port is a standard item, and probably 99% of all allen plugs for that thread will use the same size tool. The only other option to save you from buying tools would be for us to source a different plug with a square male head that you could use an open end wrench on, but then you would be paying more for the kit to get parts that are not necessary (the head includes the plugs) and you wouldn't have a new tool to show for it.
Originally Posted by Lex2002
They included Loctite for the Nylok nuts. Thanks. I did appreciate that detail, but you should have gone the next step and added some Teflon tape appropriate for fuel. (2 disposable plastic fuel line tools to disconnect the fuel line into the fuel pump and out of and into the sending unit/assembly would have been super cool.)
The loctite that was provided was THREAD SEALANT, not THREAD LOCK. It was not for the nuts, which are "nylok" as you said and don't require a liquid thread lock. The bottle you received was for sealing the pipe thread fittings into the filter head.
We used to provide the tools, but some trucks don't require them so selling someone tools when they didn't need them just added to the cost of the kit. Step 2 specifically mentions the need for these tools, and we always recommend that customers read the instructions fully BEFORE actually tackling the project, to make sure they don't need any tools, supplies, friend to help, etc.
Originally Posted by Lex2002
Lastly, the braided fuel line; If this was really top notch, you would have had OEM style push lock fuel fittings made in lieu of using generic fuel line with hose clamps. I'm not saying the hose clamps wont stay tight, but that would have been "next level" stuff.
I don't think you fully understand the reason we developed this kit, why it is called the "Hutch Mod", etc. Your suggestion that using OE style quick disconnect fittings would be "next level" would actually defeat the primary purpose for installing the "hutch mod". The hutch mod was NOT developed as a "filter" setup. From day 1, when Mark Hutchinson released his findings from some testing he did (way back in the early days on Ford-Diesel.com which is now TheDieselStop.com), it was about engine noise, poor fuel economy and air in diesel fuel. There were a BUNCH of us working diligently on different aspects of the fuel system in 7.3L trucks back then. The main players were Mark Hutchison, myself, David Lott at Diesel Innovations, Bob Riley at DieselSite and a handful of individual truck owners. Mark got curious one day and installed a clear hose from the tank to the pump, and from the pump to the engine. What he saw was a crapload of air where it shouldn't be. He dropped the tank, got rid of the mixing chamber and got rid of the quick disconnect fittings and found that a HUGE amount of the air he was seeing in the hoses disappeared as well. It made a noticeable difference in the noise the engine made and as the rest of us tested his theories in our own vehicles and proved the concept, "hutch mod" kits were born. For years, while he was still active in the diesel community, Mark actively referred people to us because he liked how we laid out our kit. It wasn't about being the least expensive for us, it was about "doing it right". We used a spin-on filter instead of an inline because we saw air release with the inline filters. We made our brackets from S.S., used pushlok fittings and AN fittings for joint serviceability where possible, used top quality hose, etc.
In a nutshell, getting rid of the quick disconnects (the OE connectors you referred to) is one of the biggest reasons people actually do the "hutch mod". It's also the reason we perform the pain in the butt step of pushing the hose over the QD locking ridge on the tube, to make sure that the hose is 100% sealed against the tube and not letting any air in.
Originally Posted by Lex2002
They ask a premium price and I paid it; to get a tested design, detailed instructions, top notch materials. I think I got very good materials and hopefully a tested design. They need to work on the instructions.
I will admit that this is one of the oldest sets of installation instructions in our product line, but in 16+ years in business, the one thing I'm almost always praised on is that my instructions are very detailed (maybe too long winded for you). Others show a diagram and trust that as men, we just look at the pictures and go for it, I believe in detailed step-by-step instructions that tell you exactly what you need to be doing.
Are the instructions perfect this many years later, maybe not. I will try to look them over for possible updates/revisions. That said, we have sold our "hutch mod" kits for a long time with these same instructions and 99%+ of the feedback has been extremely positive.
Hope that addresses some of your concerns and answers any questions others might have.
As I said, wish I had seen this earlier...I always like to reply to any issues or complaints a customer might have!
07-18-2013, 04:02 PM
