Shifting problems please advise
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Shifting problems please advise
My '92 F250 constantly shifts up and down when you hold it at a constant speed between 30 and 40mph. I just changed the transmission a month ago and it did it before and it still does it. So I'm assuming it is something electrical. Is there any kind of adjustment on the E40D for the shifting or is it all computer controlled? A mechanic I talked to says it is all controlled by computer but he doesn't know which part or where it would need to be changed. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Bryce
Bryce
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
First does the tach and speedo work smoothly like they should?
If they both do, then the FILP out on the IP that sends a throttle position signal to the computer would be the next thing to look at.
Someone else is going to have to post the test proceedure, I lost that info when my new hard drive crashed.
If they both do, then the FILP out on the IP that sends a throttle position signal to the computer would be the next thing to look at.
Someone else is going to have to post the test proceedure, I lost that info when my new hard drive crashed.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,409
Likes: 1
From: back in SE Iowa
what you do is warm the motor up get a multimeter shove the pos. lead into the plug next to the center wire.(i believe its green) turn the key on dont start the truck though.ground the other lead to the battery.at an idle you should be at 1.0 - 1.4 volts and then gradually move the throttle rocker to wide open it should increase in voltage gradually with no dead areas all the way to wide open throttle where you wil see 4.0 - 4.3 volts if you arent in those tolerances you need to loosen the screws and move the fipl back and forth until you are within those tolerances
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,378
Likes: 845
From: Mi'kma'ki
sounds like a bad MLPS.
check this out & test before throwing $ at it:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...-the-mlps.html
check this out & test before throwing $ at it:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...-the-mlps.html
ironpants,
Regarding MLPS:
Wrong Gear Starts
Bad or mis-adjusted MLPS
Can cause wrong gear starts, no upshift, falls out of gear, and high line pressure = harsh upshift and engagements. May or may not set code 67/634 (MLPS out of position).
Note
MLPS is located on driver's side of transmission case.
MLPS adjustment
Place manual lever in Neutral. Line up I.D mark on sensor with l.D. mark on plastic bushing. Tighten bolts.
To check MLPS
1. Hook red lead of DVOM to pin # 199 (MLP sensor signal).
2. Hook black lead of meter to pin 359 (sensor signal return).
3. Set meter to ohms.
4. Move manual lever through the different positions and compare DVOM reading to chart below.
Manuel lever position
Meter should read:
P 3769 to 4608 ohms
R 1304 to 1593 ohms
N 660 to 807 ohms
D .... 361 to 442 ohms
2 190 to 232 ohms
I 80 to 95 ohms
Important
If the MLPS needs replacement, use Ford part # E5TZ-7A247-A. This kit includes a new style harness connector. You must replace the connector to use the new MLPS. By sliding the old wire separator from the original connector up the harness you can leave it in place as you install the new connector. This helps to keep the wires in their original location.
Note
Make sure you clean the harness connector with brake clean and apply some dielectric grease to the pins. This will ensure a good connection. Use Permatex part # 67V (dielectric tune-up grease). You can get it at most auto parts stores.
Not saying your MLPS is bad but I saved $40 going to Napa instead of a dealership when I replaced mine.
Regarding Code 62:
Before or after overhaul code 62/628 (TCC slippage).
Code 62/628 will set when the computer calls for LU but does not see
1. Change in rpm (no LU at all- electrical or mechanical problem).
2. Enough of a change in rpm (converter clutch or forward, intermediate, direct or OD clutches slipping). Usually converter clutch then directs.
Cause and correction
Mechanical
Listed by most common
1. Warped or cracked LU piston. This is the most common and number one reason for code 62/628. Ford completely redesigned the piston making it much stronger. LUK manufactures the new piston for Ford and when you buy a rebuilt torque converter always specify that you want it with the updated piston. The rebuilt converter costs more money because of the updated piston but it eliminates the most common cause of code 62/628.
2. Slipping direct clutch (especially common in diesels) Make sure your using E4OD frictions and not C6. All diesels should use 4 frictions in direct. Use only steel sealing rings on center support to prevent high clutch circuit leaks.
3. Pump- A worn pump with excessive side gear clearance will produce low pump pressure, which can be enough to cause the converter clutch to not hold or slip setting code 62/628. Make sure the pump you're using is perfect. If not and you have to replace it Ford has a updated pump assembly with larger gears for increased volume part # F5TZ-7A103-A.
4. Make sure converter clutch shift and apply valves in the stator are not sticking or that the springs are not mixed up.
Electrical
Listed by most common
1.RPM sensor
Diesel only- very common Ford part # E5TZ-17B384-A. May or may not set code 14/211 (RPM sensor circuit failure). A bad RPM sensor can cause LU and/ or the shifls to go in and out (cycle back and forth).
Check RPM sensor with DVOM set to on AC voltage. RPM sensor is
located below the engine oil filler neck in the housing.
Here's how to check it
1. Remove 2-wire connector end.
2. Hook meter leads to pins on sensor. It doesn't matter which way you hook up the red or black leads.
3. Set scale to AC/ 0 to 40-volt scale..
4. Start engine in park. Raise rpm while watching DVOM.
5. Voltage must increase or RPM sensor is bad.
2. VSS
May or may not set code 29/452 (VSS speed sensor signal too low).
Note
Check speed sensor with DVOM on AC scale. VSS is located in transmission tail housing or differential.
Here's how to check it:
1. Remove 2-wire connector end.
2. Hook meter leads to pins on sensor. It doesn't matter which way you hook up the red or black leads.
3. Set scale to AC voltage / 0 to 40 volt scale.
4. Raise vehicle so rear wheels are off ground.
5. Start vehicle, put in "D" and make transmission upshift. Watch meter.
6. You must see an increase in AC voltage or VSS is bad
3. Bad LU solenoid in solenoid block.
4. Bad TOT sensor (transmission oil temperature) in solenoid block
5. Open or shorted wire between LU solenoid and controller.
6. Poor connection at LU solenoid.
Also, is the ground on the FIPL at or lower than 1/10th of a volt (.100 volts on a meter? If not, you need to get it there as it is critical. The MLPS ground and TOT ground are all on the same circuit going back to the PCM. If you haven't got the time to trace out the ground wires, simply splice into the ground wire of the FIPL and run the other end to the ground of the passenger side battery. This will clear up the crap signals going to the computer by the FIPL, TOT, MLPS (direct experience). R.A.
R.A.
Regarding MLPS:
Wrong Gear Starts
Bad or mis-adjusted MLPS
Can cause wrong gear starts, no upshift, falls out of gear, and high line pressure = harsh upshift and engagements. May or may not set code 67/634 (MLPS out of position).
Note
MLPS is located on driver's side of transmission case.
MLPS adjustment
Place manual lever in Neutral. Line up I.D mark on sensor with l.D. mark on plastic bushing. Tighten bolts.
To check MLPS
1. Hook red lead of DVOM to pin # 199 (MLP sensor signal).
2. Hook black lead of meter to pin 359 (sensor signal return).
3. Set meter to ohms.
4. Move manual lever through the different positions and compare DVOM reading to chart below.
Manuel lever position
Meter should read:
P 3769 to 4608 ohms
R 1304 to 1593 ohms
N 660 to 807 ohms
D .... 361 to 442 ohms
2 190 to 232 ohms
I 80 to 95 ohms
Important
If the MLPS needs replacement, use Ford part # E5TZ-7A247-A. This kit includes a new style harness connector. You must replace the connector to use the new MLPS. By sliding the old wire separator from the original connector up the harness you can leave it in place as you install the new connector. This helps to keep the wires in their original location.
Note
Make sure you clean the harness connector with brake clean and apply some dielectric grease to the pins. This will ensure a good connection. Use Permatex part # 67V (dielectric tune-up grease). You can get it at most auto parts stores.
Not saying your MLPS is bad but I saved $40 going to Napa instead of a dealership when I replaced mine.
Regarding Code 62:
Before or after overhaul code 62/628 (TCC slippage).
Code 62/628 will set when the computer calls for LU but does not see
1. Change in rpm (no LU at all- electrical or mechanical problem).
2. Enough of a change in rpm (converter clutch or forward, intermediate, direct or OD clutches slipping). Usually converter clutch then directs.
Cause and correction
Mechanical
Listed by most common
1. Warped or cracked LU piston. This is the most common and number one reason for code 62/628. Ford completely redesigned the piston making it much stronger. LUK manufactures the new piston for Ford and when you buy a rebuilt torque converter always specify that you want it with the updated piston. The rebuilt converter costs more money because of the updated piston but it eliminates the most common cause of code 62/628.
2. Slipping direct clutch (especially common in diesels) Make sure your using E4OD frictions and not C6. All diesels should use 4 frictions in direct. Use only steel sealing rings on center support to prevent high clutch circuit leaks.
3. Pump- A worn pump with excessive side gear clearance will produce low pump pressure, which can be enough to cause the converter clutch to not hold or slip setting code 62/628. Make sure the pump you're using is perfect. If not and you have to replace it Ford has a updated pump assembly with larger gears for increased volume part # F5TZ-7A103-A.
4. Make sure converter clutch shift and apply valves in the stator are not sticking or that the springs are not mixed up.
Electrical
Listed by most common
1.RPM sensor
Diesel only- very common Ford part # E5TZ-17B384-A. May or may not set code 14/211 (RPM sensor circuit failure). A bad RPM sensor can cause LU and/ or the shifls to go in and out (cycle back and forth).
Check RPM sensor with DVOM set to on AC voltage. RPM sensor is
located below the engine oil filler neck in the housing.
Here's how to check it
1. Remove 2-wire connector end.
2. Hook meter leads to pins on sensor. It doesn't matter which way you hook up the red or black leads.
3. Set scale to AC/ 0 to 40-volt scale..
4. Start engine in park. Raise rpm while watching DVOM.
5. Voltage must increase or RPM sensor is bad.
2. VSS
May or may not set code 29/452 (VSS speed sensor signal too low).
Note
Check speed sensor with DVOM on AC scale. VSS is located in transmission tail housing or differential.
Here's how to check it:
1. Remove 2-wire connector end.
2. Hook meter leads to pins on sensor. It doesn't matter which way you hook up the red or black leads.
3. Set scale to AC voltage / 0 to 40 volt scale.
4. Raise vehicle so rear wheels are off ground.
5. Start vehicle, put in "D" and make transmission upshift. Watch meter.
6. You must see an increase in AC voltage or VSS is bad
3. Bad LU solenoid in solenoid block.
4. Bad TOT sensor (transmission oil temperature) in solenoid block
5. Open or shorted wire between LU solenoid and controller.
6. Poor connection at LU solenoid.
Also, is the ground on the FIPL at or lower than 1/10th of a volt (.100 volts on a meter? If not, you need to get it there as it is critical. The MLPS ground and TOT ground are all on the same circuit going back to the PCM. If you haven't got the time to trace out the ground wires, simply splice into the ground wire of the FIPL and run the other end to the ground of the passenger side battery. This will clear up the crap signals going to the computer by the FIPL, TOT, MLPS (direct experience). R.A.
R.A.
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