I am rebuilding my d44 closed knuckle and am in the process of shimming the kingpins. I put new bearings and races in and bought new shims for the top and bottom. Upon reassembly I put it together without shims for a test fit and without any shims I cannot get the 12-14 Lb. bearing preload. Driver side is a little tighter than the passenger side.

Any suggestions?

 

If the preload is less than the 12-14 Lbs you need to add shims to tighten the tapered bearings into the races. I'm not sure if it matters but you may need to add shims evenly to the upper and lower tapered bearings. Novak had some information on there website regarding the old closed knuckle front axles. I had and issue years ago with a closed knuckle front axle that had issues with king pin bearing preload and the threads stripping in the knuckle.Make sure to torque properly and also make sure that the bolt has full thread contact but does not protrude into the inner part of the knuckle.Novak also has information regarding the proper lubrication needed for the closed knuckles after rebuilding as it is not currently available today at parts stores. I hope this information may be of use to you. Good luck with your project.

 

Thanks for the reply!
If I am understanding correctly, adding the shims as designed, every shim you add loosens the preload. No shims is as tight as you can get it and I have no shims and still have 0 preload.
I am considering cutting some small round shims (quarter size) that I can fit around the small end of the kingpin that will take up some space between the kingpin and the tapered bearing.

Is that doable or could it cause problems?
Thanks!

 

How are the seats the races sit on, are they pretty hammered?

 

If the king pins have no shim of any kind and preload is less than the 12-14 lbs you need to shim at the small machined stud with the thin shims that would be similar to a washer between the top of the tapered bearing and kingpin. I have seen shims that are shaped like the 4 bolt kingpin / steering arm that were installed between the knuckle and the kingpin also but that would be used if the preload was to tight. If you shim between bearing and kingpin the preload should increase. I hope this helps clarify the issue you are having with the front axle.

 

Seats look good, races fit tight.
Thanks!

That is exactly what I was thinking. I figured I would have to custom cut shims. I have never seen shims for that area.
I don't see a downside to this do you guys?
Thanks!

 

Which shims do you have currently as stated in post # 1. If they are about 1 1/4" in diameter with the small hole about 5/8" in the center. That would be the one to increase the preload as the kingpin when tightened will put pressure on the tapered bearing / race. Do you have a photo of the shim you currently have. These shims are made from material like used in feeler guage and have different thicknesses just like feeler gauges. I don't see how you can make these shims as the thickness in very thin and cutting and drilling to fit would be difficult IMOP. The only other choice if you can't find shims would be to machine material off the caps and steering arm to create more preload on the bearings or remove material from top and bottom of the knuckle. I wouldn't do this as original parts are hard to find and it may weaken the original part and cause a serious mishap while driving. Hope this information is useful.

 

I checked different source on the internet and could not find any shims designed to go between tapered bearing and kingpin cap. I found some information on several jeep sites claiming you could possible place a thin washer between kingpin cap and taper bearing. Hopefully the shim kit you have would allow the proper preload when done this way. I did find a company called Custom Metal Shims, Spacers, Brackets, Plates, Laser Cutting | The Shim Shack or phone 1 877-830-9876 that can produce thin shims .005 and .010 in several type of metal. It seems the washer idea may be the best option. Hope this information might help get the project done. Keep us informed to how the fix works out.

 

Gee those upper & lower will leak lube out the bottoms if not correct and tighten correct. I think 35lbs. I throw out all the ones I had as I could not give them away and king pins with near new spindles with rebuilt backing plates 6 month new drums. Axles and tubes. Took it all the PnP scrap Bin plus my 1971 24 TF case about 10000 miles since rebuilding that was pretty tired to start with.
No one was interested even for free and not room for storage so out it went. Had about $1000 in new an rebuild axles inner u-joints inner axle seals in parts. The 24TF case was starting to leak with the rear trial shaft getting some up & down play.
So went to a 205 tf & a 76 44HDdisc brake front axle.

But that's water under the bridge and don't matter ay more.

I still have a NOS Brake proportioning valve P/N C87Z-2B257-C for the drums brakes still in the Ford box that, I ended up not using if you happen to be in need of a new one. Yes new not rebuilt..
PM me if interested
orich
I may still have a few shims tho but i'll have to look in my nuts & bolts junk cans.
B P-valve
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps9ac97bf5.jpg

 

You can cut thin stainless shim stock with good scissors, I used to do it often to make custom shims for mechanical systems. For an inside hole, mark it out then use a small hammer and narrow cold chisel to cut it along the line. A good solid surface helps as too soft of a surface will let the shim stock deform all over the place.

 

Thanks for all the help guys!
I think I am going to cut some shims and see how it works!
Thanks!

 

This guys has everything you'd need at a piece tho.
www.quad4x4.com
Also these may fit
King Pin Shim Kit for Closed Knuckle Axles
Scout 80/800 with Dana 27 or 30 Front Axle
All Pick up, Travelall with Dana 44 Small Knuckle Front Axle
Shim Kit Sold Each Per Side
Two Shim Kits Required Per Axle
orich