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It would have an M5OD or A4LD. Thing is the 3.0 bell is different from the 4.0. So if it's an M5OD it will not work as the bell housing is non removable or part of the case. If it's an A4LD the tranny would need to be sent off to someone to change out the bell housing. I have read that part of the problem with the A4LD is the front looses center and then front seals will not seal. That a rebuild really needs to have a new bell and the shop needs to machine it to return center for the front seal. Read a procedure for it somewhere. Don't know it that is true or not. Just what I read somewhere as the reason why most A4LD rebuilds don't last.
The t-case would either be a 1354 electric shift or a 1354 manual shift.
That suff is out of a 93 Ranger. So some stuff you should know. The Ranger 8.8 has smaller 28 spline shafts than the larger 31 spline shafts in the Explorer. And the rear center section is offset to one side to clear the side mounted tank. I have read that the 7.5 rear shafts will work in the Ranger 8.8.
Ian had the 3.0 and the hybrid front axle. So there is a good chance that front 35 has 28 internals.
This is what I read on another site about the Bell housing on the A4LD. Might have seen something somewhere else where is was the problem on many rebuilds and the procedure for installing the new bell:
Premature wear or a repeat failure of the converter hub, bellhousing bushing, converter seal and/or pump assembly may be caused by a broken or worn crank shaft pilot sleeve. Located between the flywheel and the crank-shaft, the pilot on the front of the converter is centered on the hole in the sleeve.
To avoid these come backs remove the flywheel and visually inspect the spacer on every 2.8, 2.9, and 4.0 engine that may be suspected of having this problem.
If the original bellhousing bushing is not worn, reuse it. Converter hub to bellhousing bushing clearance should be .002"-.003" Converter depth from the front of the pad to front of the bellhousing should be 1 5/8" to 1 3/4".
If you have repeated front seal blowouts on A4LD's it may not be a problem with the seal or the quality of your work. Your could have a bad bellhousing. The bushing used in the A4LD is finished in place. Because of this the bore that the bushing fits into doesn't need to be in the center of the bellhousing, and in many cases it isn't. When you're working on an A4LD you need to check the bellhousing bushing to see if it's the original factory bushing. If it is, and it's not worn (no more than .003") converter hub to bushing clearance), Don't Replace It! If the bushing needs to be replaced, you need to make sure the replacement bushing will fit in the center of the bellhousing. To do this bolt the torque converter to the flex plate. Turn the engine over and check the runout of the converter hub. Now bolt the bellhousing to the engine. If the Torque converter is contacting one side of the bushing excessively, the bushing is off center and the bellhousing MUST be replaced. However, a slight amount of contact is acceptable. By checking the bellhousing first you can avoid repeated front seal blowout.
Again this is not my info and I cannot say how accurate it is. But you might search for info on how to install a new bell housing on a A4LD.