My '68 250 Camper Special is making a good amount of valve rattle, its also time for new Cap, Rotar, Coil & plugs plus the carb needs a rebuild.

This truck is a hand me down, I have verry little experiance with the FE block V8. I can't find a Chiltons Or Haynes Repair manual Anywhere.
where can I find the information I'm going to need?

 

it has hydraulic lifters with no ability for valve adjustment, my dad just ran atf through his buick century that was tapping and it helped. lifters have oil ports which are small and can clog, and a hydraulic lifter is a pretty complex little bugger. but i would just recommend replacing them and then maybe even doing the timing chain and gears. but many other things can be to blame instead.

 

How do I run ATF through them?

Change the oil out for ATF and run it?

 

This is not a chebby product, DO NOT do that to your Ford FE engine.

AN excellent book http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-BI...3655342&sr=1-1

You may post your concerns on the FE forum, as there are some excellent engine builders that hang out on there.


John

 

Thanks, i was alittle iffy on that one, I have heard of using ATF when you change the fuel filter on a diesel to clean the injectors but thats alot diffrent that using it to clean a hydrolic lifter.

Is the FE forum on this site or another?

 

shalers rislone

 

It's at this site...just click on the "Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums" in the bar under the ad, then you will see all the sub-forums on the site.

Check yer oil level too....as you get to the really low oil point, there isn't enough pressure in the oil to "pump up" the lifters....topping up the oil will often make the sound go away.

 

it is just a matter of adding a quart to what you already have in there and running it around the block a few times before you do a fresh oil change.

[quote=jowilker] sorry john, not trying to dish out bad advice to anyone, i just had to throw it out there because of it being an old backyard shadetree trick, and many of those ole beer chuggin tobaccy chewin tricks are subject to controversy. without a doubt nothing beats just replacing or fixing the actual problem.

 

I have "Ford Performance" by Pat Ganahl. It's not specifically Big Blocks like the one Jowilker recommended but it has a section on the FE engines and their oiling problems/fixes. There are a few restrictions to open up and a small one to ADD in the cylinder heads.

http://www.amazon.com/Ford-Performan...797691&sr=1-1#

I've ran 100% dexron to clean out the motor. That was about 20,000 miles ago. Don't load the motor and keep the rpm under 2,500. My engine runs cool so I also put cardboard in front of the radiator while the engine idled.

One note:
The FE motor's intake gaskets are under the valve covers so, if the intake gaskets start to fail, engine oil can get pulled in to the intake runners. Even a small leak would eventually drop the oil level enough to make the lifters rattle. If you are continually using oil, you might, naturally, assume your rings are bad when all you need is an intake gasket!

 

thank you. this is alot of good info. I read the Oil Mod List on this forum in the FE Section on this site.

you recomend dextron for the flush? Will any ATF do?
I have used Mercon to flush out injectors in a diesel truck durring the fule system mantainance. It works good, so I can see how it would clean the lifters and Oil Gallys/Channels. jowilker says its not a good idea to do it.

Im going to get a new oil preasure gauge and see what the PSI is at idle when the motor is hot & see what im working with. if its low im going to flush it, if not, im leaving well enough alone.

 

"You recomend dextron for the flush? Will any ATF do?" Yes I should have just said ATF. They are all "High Detergent"

"jowilker says its not a good idea to do it." I never ignore other peoples experiences. I like to learn from everyone. I'd be interested to hear from people who've had BAD results from doing ANYTHING. These forums al all about learning!

"Im going to get a new oil preasure gauge and see what the PSI is at idle when the motor is hot & see what im working with. if its low im going to flush it, if not, im leaving well enough alone."
You got me thinkin' on this one... probably over thinking LOL. A restricted passage would have low flow but would it have low pressure? Also if you measure pressure down at the pump I think you are only measuring the pump and not the rest of the system?

 

No, by that logic, it would have high pressure if the rest of the system is not flowing. but I'm not sure, you would think they would set the gage up so it shows the pressure in the whole system.

I was also going to pull the valve covers to inspect the manifold gaskets & check oil flow to the heads.

What about running an ATF & oil stabilizer like Lucas or Slick 50 in combination for the flush? I have used the Lucas with ATF in the past in Manual trans. it quites them down and makes shifting smoother.

 

Measuring pressure at the pump will tell you what the pressure is up to the first restriction, if there is one.

Engines are engineered to maintain consistent pressure throughout.

The factory gauges actually measure pressure coming from the pump.

Now, once you pass a restriction, whether it be a clogged passage or an engineered orifice, the pressure will generally be less, unless there is a second orifice in that oil feed.

 

If regular HD motor oil like most 10W30s won't keep it clean it you have a problem elsewere.

Go ahead with your ATF flush, and come back in 2-3 months and share how things are then.




John