If your have heads with studs and guide plates instead of pedestals you should look at a solid flat tappet cam instead. Easily 50hp over that cam, and probably even more over 6,000rpm.

Don't believe the dyno results on the Edelbrock website, you'll be lucky to wring much more than 300hp out of that cam in your engine.

 

I would but im on a tight budget and i want to get my truck done before i graduate.

 

i finally got the motor built. haven't got to put it in yet because i do not know what to do about the distributor. since my old distributor is efi i have to get a new one right?

 

Some advice on camshafts, that I've learned over the years;
A lot of people over cam, and it's a big no-no if you're going for power and efficiency, especially in a heavy vehicle. Camshafts ground to be used with solid flat tappets do create more "area under the curve" than a hydraulic flat tappet grind, because there's no "give" at the beginning of each ramp cycle, so the pushrod, rocker and valve more closely follow the profile of the cam lobe. Basically, snapping the valve open quicker, which means the overall effect is an increase in airflow with a given camshaft spec. A solid lifter cam of similar lift and duration figures as a hydraulic cam will make 12-15 hp more. A hydraulic roller, however, also creates lots of area under the curve because the roller tappets allow for a very steep ramp angle on the cam lobes and thus a hydraulic roller cam will outperform a solid lifter cam of similar duration, making an additional 5-10 hp more. If you get some extra money together, I'd suggest investing in a hydraulic roller retro kit for a non-factory roller block. Roller cams are pretty amazing for power output, efficiency and longevity.
The ideal power maker is a solid roller design, but I wouldn't suggest running it in a daily driver. Floating a valve with such a cam in the motor will sometimes result in roller tip breakage on the lifter, followed by catastrophic engine failure. For all-out performance motors, though, they're unbeatable.

Anyway, back to that Performer RPM camshaft..
There's quite a bit of potential in that grind. The manufacturer lists it at 224/234 duration @ .050", which is somewhat more aggressive than a stock roller cam in an HO 302. The stock head castings will be your bottleneck, not the cam.

Car Craft Magazine's 302 build up with a stock roller cam,(milder than yours) made 400 hp on the dyno; Car Craft is a pretty credible source..

Ford 302 V8 Engine Buildup- Car Craft Magazine

 

can i run my old distributor efi distributor on my carb

 

No, you'll need one from a carbed engine. Or a one-wire HEI aftermarket type.

 

I like the idea of those self-contained 1 wire HEI style distributors, but I've never tried one. From what I've read, they're pretty good.

You could also get a points distr. from an auto parts store for cheap. The points distributor I put in my old 300 cost me 35 bucks from Napa. The stock type points distributor won't rev much past 6000 rpm, though.
There's also the option of looking around on places like craigslist for a used MSD electronic or Mallory dual point unit.

 

alright thanks. now what do i do about the fuel

 

ok i finally worked out all my fuel problems. i got the truck running i haven't had the money to get new heads yet, i will have those by next month. Ive put about 50miles on it so far i pulled the valve cover cant remember witch rocker arms but it was on the diver side and had worked its self loses to about 7ft-lb. should i put some thread lock on it and see if it holds or just not drive it until next month. what is the breaking procedure on the motor and why does it have to break in? I did do the cam break in and i think i used the wrong cam because it doesn't have enough low end i don't plan on revving much past 6k maybe 6.5

 

Well, to me "break in" means the initial 30 minutes you run the engine to get the cam and lifters wearing together. Once the cam's broken in you can drive the car normally.

You're running pedestal rockers? If so, threadlock couldn't hurt. Loose rockers will crater your valve train. If it worked loose in 50 miles there's something wrong. Maybe it didn't get torqued down initially?

That cam is great in a Mustang with 3.73 or higher gears, but not really made for trucks. It isn't designed for low end power. Now if you were to swap in a 4.10 rear end gear you'd be much happier with it.

 

so i don't have to drive the vehicle easy for 500 miles?