I don't plan on buying a new block because i cant afford one, but how much power can a stock 302 block support and is there anything u can do to improve it. Also what options are there available in the after market blocks besides dart

 

Check out the 302/351 weakness thread in this section.

 

Im talking about more of the after market selection of blocks. I know dart makes blocks but who else does.

 

If you build a magnafluxed and sonic tested 1970s 302 block with a billet steel main stud girdle, you won't break it.

 

Ford racing for one, but you're not going to be anywhere near the point of stressing a stock block with this build. You'll be at least a couple of hundred HP short.

The reference to the 302/351W link was for the limits of the stock blocks and what upgrades can be done to them.

 

what carb should i go with. I have zero experience with carbs my dad was saying a 650 holley but i have no idea. i will be keeping the stock heads until later on down the road so i can put my truck back together and quit driving a honda.

 

302 with stock heads, a 600 would work well. A 650 would be ok, too.
I like Holley carbs.

 

A 650 Holley would be good. A 600 might be better for now, but a 650 might work before and after.

 

I bought my edelbrock push rods and their shorter than my stock ones. Did i buy the wrong one? Edelbrock 9632 - Edelbrock Hardened Steel Pushrods - Overview - SummitRacing.com

 

I don't know Deve, Right off the top of my head, I don't even know what stock length is for a 302. When you change anything in the valvetrain, or heads or block deck height, you should use an adjustable pushrod and checking springs to determine the correct length pushrod.

This involves pre-assembling your engine and marking the tip of your valves with a marks-a-lot and using either solid lifters or converted hydraulic lifters and an adjustable pushrod to find the smallest wear pattern near the center of the valve stem to determine the proper pushrod length to obtain the correct geometry for the valvetrain. Too long or too short can cause wear issues at best and possibly much worse consequences.

To start with, you should probably Goggle up " Valvetrain Geometry". Right now, I'm not in the mood to Google that up and see what comes up, but it should give you the info you need.

Merry Christmas.

 

Pushrod length is not something you can determine by math.... what you need is a length checker pushrod which work in the lengths you need.... there are three sizes of these things from small to large.... you need medium of a ford 302 from 5.x" to like 6.x"

You roll the engine to TDC with the head sitting on the block and the lifter installed..... you color the intake valve tip solid with a magic marker and install the length checker pushrod with a rocker on the intake valve.... you then adjust the pushrod so that at TDC, where the cam is on the base circle, so that the rocker is slightly more seated on the valve towards the intake side of the valve tip and rotate the motor around a few times and look at the pattern it makes. It should remove the marker ink from the middle of the intake valve tip. Then measure the length checker pushrod, and see what it is.... this will be the ideal length for a pushrod for your engine.... then look at the available sizes for pushrods and see what is close....

Its not usually worth it to order custom pushrods of you can get ones close.... just write down the ideal and the available measurements close and then adjust the length checker to the close available lengths and see what pattern they make.


Merry Christmas....

 

All good Boba Fett- except for one thing, and this is a widespread misconception: it is not the center of the valve stem that you are looking for, but the smallest width wear pattern near the center.

What you are trying to eliminate is side load on the valve stem. It's better to be off-center but be pushing in a straighter line, than it is to be centered but pushing on both sides of the valve stem. If you think about it, it makes a lot of sense. If someone grabs your shoulder and pushes straight back and forth, you'll only rock a bit. But if someone grabs you in the middle of your chest and shakes you side to side and back and forth you will lose your stability and wind up on your butt.

 

finally got my internet back. Ive done more work to my truck i have the bottom end assembled today. I have and decided to use the torker 2 intake for now. A 650 performer series carb. it needs rebuilt but i have no idea how so if anybody could give some advice i would appreciate it. Also im confused on how i get the fuel to the motor since it was efi. thanks for all the advice you guys on ford trucks have given it really helped.

 

Just order a rebuild kit and new floats for the carb, if it doesn't come with instructions it's easy enough. Take lots of pictures if you're not sure.

With the engine out of the truck you could get a timing cover and eccentric off a carbed SBF with a mechanical pump or use a stand-alone relay to the inertia switch and run the stock electric pump with a pressure regulator. I'd go mechanical.

Are you still planning to use the Performer RPM cam from the first post? You're leaving 30hp on the table with that grind...

 

Yes i have the performer rpm cam. So far i have the bottom end assembled and balanced. Im using the stock crank stock rods Keith Black pistons performer rpm cam.