It's a screwy deal. You are looking at flat tops, but the valve reliefs basically equate to a dish. As you have already seen some will list that as a + while some as a -. Anything that makes your head cc larger adds to it. so things like the head gasket are listed as + almost everywhere.
Pistons, on the other hand , can be looked at 2 ways with the dome and dish. You can look at the valve reliefs as below the top of the piston (-) and the dome as above the piston (+), and strickly speaking, as far as the piston is concerned, that is correct. A dome is (+) more piston, a dish (-) less.
But as far as combustion chamber volume is concerned, the dome is now filling up the chamber (-) making it smaller and making the CR go up, (yet another way to confuse the + or - thing) while the dish is adding to the size of the CC (+). You have to look to see whether they are calling a dish + or - or a dome + or -, because they can be listed either way.
In the calculator is shows dish to be +.

 

so then the KB psitons would be my best bet for the price to get the 10.5:1.

 

There is no difference in the KB's and the Speed-Pro's as far as CR goes. There's not that much difference in the 2 anyway, IMO. I like the extra protection of the coated skirts on the Speed-Pro's and the rings are about 1/2 the price.
The site you viewed the KB's on lists the valve reliefs as a positive while the site offering the Speed-Pro's lists the valve reliefs as a negative. They are both flat top pistons and the volume change in question is the valve reliefs which are identical on both pistons.
The easiest way to see this and avoid confusion is to look at other pistons offered by the same vendor, and see what they list their dished ones at. Valve reliefs = dished, so which ever way they list the dishes is the way they will list the flat tops, and it can be either way as covered above.
You don't want to get 10.5:1 CR with cast iron heads and the set-up you are looking at. That would be over ideal for aluminum and pump gas.
With either piston and the 58cc heads, you would be at 9:1 which is fine.
I figured this on stock deck height (give or take). You said you had the block work done. Was the block decked, and if so, how much? You may already be above 9:1, but you're not looking at 10.5:1.

 

the block was bored 30 over, batted, and micro flexed it wasn't decked. well i called summit and they said it would give me 10.5:1. and my summit catalog says the same thing. so now i really confused.

 

ok then if i use a aluminum head should i use a 160cc or 180cc from RHS the 160 heads have 1.904 vales while the 180 has 2.020 intake but they both have the same exhaust 1.6.
United Engine and Machine Co. these pistons are 245 at summit and they will have the compression that im looking for. then would a 64cc or 58cc head be better i know the 58 has more compression. but can the 58cc head be to much compression for pump gas.

 

My bad. Somewhere along the line I got the idea that the KB's were flat top pistons. So to try and undo some of the confusion. Those KB's are domes and using the same criteria for rating the CR volume, the KB's are +6cc while the Speed-Pro's are -8cc.
There are people running higher CR than 10.5:1 on pump gas, but they are running custom cams and not in a truck.
So with those pistons you would HAVE to have aluminum and they would need to be 64cc which would put you right on the edge following conventional wisdom for pump gas. It really has to do with the cam as well. Have you found any information that recommends a CR for that cam?
Those pistons are too much for any cast iron head for your build.
With flat tops you can get the 58cc cast iron head and mill it for more compression if you so desire. (I wouldn't).
Hope this helps.
I would go with the 180 2.02 valve heads. You could make an argument either way: the smaller heads would have more velocity and make more low-end torque. Since you want to spin this motor, I think the bigger heads will breathe better and the trade off in low end torque wouldn't be that much. Also you have a fairly large cam and intake, (by RV standards) so the bigger head is probably matched pretty well. Finally, I feel like when in doubt, a little too big is better than a little too small. You can compensate for too big with a higher stall, but there's not much you can do about too small.

 

i think u missed the part where i said im going to buy the aluminum heads. so the 64cc heads alright that was what i was originally thinking about. Edelbrock.com - Camshafts and Lifter Kits look at the bottom of the page for the CR it says 9.5:1 or higher

 

Yeah, I missed that part because you never said it. "If I go with" is not the same as "I am getting". Like I said even with aluminum you will be over ideal. You might get by with 10.5:1 and then again you may need to add octane or retard the timing. In that paragraph that lists the CR at 9.5 or higher, it also says not for heavy vehicles. A CR of 9.5-10:1 would be more in line.
I don't know if you have ever been in a vehicle that was on the edge of pinging but I have. When you have a vehicle like that it runs happily along until...... you have to climb a hill. Knock knock knock. You have a heavy vehicle and you are going to run a cam that's not designed for it, so just like a hill, you'll be pulling a load.
You might want to talk to a tech at Comp and see what they recommend for a similar camshaft or just tell them your set-up and see what they come up with. You could tell the tech you are thinking about 2 different CR's and get his input.
I think you would be better off with the 9.0:1 of the flat tops and you could mill for another 1/2 point.
Maybe someone else will chime in here. I think we both could use a second perspective at this point.

 

Well i decide to go on and but the Keith black dome +2.6cc. They should give me a 10:1 ratio. If that is to high for some reason for pump gas i can always throw a thicker head gasket on. well i was looking around on the internet and people were saying u needed a 3000stall for that cam. so i think edelbrock says not for heavy vehicles because torque isn't at low rpms. but i'm just guessing here. and i got the cam and lifter from a freind for 100 bucks so i dont really want to buy a new cam. just wanted to say thx for your patience and help doug. so i will be buying the pistons some time this week after wednesday.

Next thing connecting rods. My budget on this build is put back 90-100$ a week and i want to have this car finished before my senior year is out. so i cant buy the best of the best which im sure u already know. I was hoping i can get a set of rods for less than 300$.what are the difference in floating and pressed fit wrist pin styles. can rods push over the advertised rpms safely im talking about 500 over. because i cannot find any rods that push 6500 for under 300$ would some like these be okay http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-5090FB/

 

You should be fine at 10:1 with aluminum heads. Those are the exact same rods I sent you a link for. I couldn't find it back but go back in the last email where I linked Scat and Eagle rods and click on the link to the Eagles. Take note of the advertised RPM. People have gone 6500 with stock rods so I'm sure you will be fine with those. I know people have to be running them higher than that.
If they can rate these at what they do, I'm sure Eagle would hold up to the same:ford mustang cnc i beam rods 5.090 bushed sbf .912 909:eBay Motors (item 330319101296 end time Oct-28-09 16:07:17 PDT).
There is a difference in the links to the same rods though. Summit is about $50 higher. I don't why you wouldn't buy those off Ebay. Summit has an Ebay store and they aren't rated any higher than the vendor I linked you to. I haven't been able to verify an RPM rating for the Eagles, but maybe I can before you buy them.

 

Ya i was thinking the same thing about the rods rpms but i wanted a seconded opinion. Wow those legends rods look to good to be true. I just use summit because i can find what im looking for easier then i look them up on ebay. the way i see it i wont be able to afford rods for 2-4 weeks so theirs plenty of time for planing

 

I don't know what to think about them. They make some other rods that are pretty expensive. That seller has been selling them since I became an Ebay member in April of 07. I haven't heard a lot about them one way or another.
Eagle and Scat are more well known. You can see what they go for. The Mustang Depot sells a rod similar to the Legend in price. I didn't link either of them to you because they are both an unknown to me.
I picked up two sets of rods similar to those ( one with bolts, one with cap screws) and they look good and the piston pins fit good in them, but I haven't mic'd them or taken them to a machine shop. I got them cheap ( about $80 a set ) but they are both heavier than the Eagles I can get for about $265. The Legends claim to be lighter than the Eagles. Lighter is better if they are strong enough.
I forgot to answer your question about press vs. full float pins. Press fit rods have to have the piston pins pressed on. The pins are the same size, its the hole in the rod that's smaller (and not bushed) in press-fit rods. The type of piston you have may determine which rod you have to use. Pistons that can use full-float rods have recesses cut around the pins for clips. Without the clips, the piston pin would slide out of the piston and hit the cylinder wall. So pistons with pins can use either rod. No pins (or provisions for them) and you must use press fit rods.
Full float pins may be a little better because they turn in the piston and the rod, but that's not the real advantage of them. You don't need a machine shop to install the full-float pistons. They are a real plus for racers that may do frequent piston changes.

 

well i don't plan on changing pistons any time soon. Im hoping i wont have to tear it down for a couple of years but the way i drive i probably will lol. the pistons says press-fit or floating. so i doesn't really mater on which style. unless one style is better than the other.
ya i probably will chose some eagle or scat. i tried to Google the legends rods and could not find any info. now it comes down to price and weight right?

 

The biggest difference is that you can install the pistons on the rods yourself if you get bushed rods (full float) but with pessed pin rods the machine shop will have to do it. Press fit rods are slightly cheaper, but then you have to pay for the piston installation so with those pistons, I'd get bushed rods.
It always comes down to price and weight.

 

ok and doesn't less weight on the rod means generally it can do higher rpms