Just checking to see if I am on the right track. I have to replace the upper and lower ball joints on the driver's side and tighten the wheel bearings on the right side.

• I have removed the outside locking hub cover that is held on by torx screws.
• Pulled out large snap ring inside the wheel hub and removed outside portion of the locking hub.
• Removed snap ring from stub axle and removed the inside part of the locking hub, two metal spacers and a plastic spacer.

Is the next step to remove the 2 3/4 inch nut holding the wheel bearing on?


I did a search on older posts, and they seem to indicate there are two nuts holding the wheel hub and bearings on. However, at this stage, all I can see is the 2 3/4 inch nut. Is there a nut behind the one I see, and if so, is it the same size or do I need another special socket?


Thanks guys

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-come-out.html Post #13
These are the nuts and washer you should find next, IIRC. You need a special socket to remove and to reinstall the nuts with. I think its called a "spanner nut" socket, but can't remember for sure. You should be able to get a cheap one at the local parts store.

 

I read through that link, but didn't get much from it. This link helped some, but I do not see "number 10 - wheel retainer key" on my truck; or at least it is not obvious to me.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...b-problem.html

I have already removed from number 14 down to number 19. And, I have ordered a 2 3/4 inch rounded hex retainer nut socket.

 

I just posted that link to show you the nuts you will have to remove. They are the exactly the same as I have on my Warn manual lock out hubs. I think once you remove them, you can pull the hub right off. Then you can begin the fun act of trying to beat the spindle off. I would post the schematic from my '97 service manual, but I can't figure out how to capture the images.

 

You have Auto hubs they don't use nut/retainer/nut show in JAFO1 post.

You need to remove #10 (snap ring) next, then the nut (2 9/16"). It may come off by hand or with a little prying. The rest should be easy.

Look here for a Shop manual on line
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...an/stjmain.htm
Click on Driveline Section 05, scroll down and click on Section Section 05-03C

BTW: Inspect the hub parts very carefully, they are prone to breaking. A set of manual hubs from Warn are bullet proof but expensive.

 

Thanks very much Jim.

That link was awesom and cleared up my confusion. The only confusion that remains is that I am not seeing the no. 10 snap ring on my truck and the NAPA book specified a 2 3/4 inch round hex socket (which is what I ordered).

I know the guy I bought the truck from had both wheel bearings done just before I bought the truck, so it is possible the snap ring was left off.

Thanks again, and reps sent.

 

if i remmember right that ring sits inside a groove on the nut. i had to use a magnet and ice pick to get it out. i had one broken and ford wnated a fortune for and would not sell it other than in a kit.

 

I forgot to ask if they were auto or manual. I changed over to the Warn's so long ago, I don't remember anything about the auto-locking. Sorry.

 

My bad. It is a 2 3/4 rounded hex socket....sorry.

Here's a picture of the #10, if it's missing the nut would back off.

 

Thanks again Jim. You saved me a ton of trouble. I got it all apart today and the only hard part was getting the plate off that allows you to pull the stub axle out. I think I am going to take it to a shop to have the ball joints pressed in though.

 

You can rent a b-joint press for free at places like autozone.

 

Here is how I changed my rotors
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ors-today.html

 

if shops where you live are like the ones around here they wanted $80 dollars to press the balljoints on my truck so i bought my own press and adapters for like 300 ish

 

That press kit is pretty cool. You can do all sorts of stuff with it.

 

I am almost finished, but lost the bearing nut retainer and the seal between the hub and axle somwhere! Very frustrated today and even the magnet failed to save the day.

On top of that, NAPA's part book does not list the bearing nut retainer, so I guess I will have to make a 30 mile run on Monday to the Ford dealer.

Thanks for that good write up Copedawg. I noticed that you have a F-350 which has manual locking hubs and a Dana 60, so there are some differences. If anyone reads this there is a difference in the manual hubs and automatic hubs. This can cause a pain at the parts house. The wheel nut socket is even different for the two types.

I took Cuda Jim's advice and borrowed a bearing press from Autozone. They make you leave a $99.00 deposit which is returned in full when the press is returned. changing the ball joints was actually very easy.

If you are going to buy a ball joint press for ocassional use only, Harbor Freight has them for $40.00. (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335). The picture I saw online looks identical to the one I rented. HF also has an accessory package for about $75.00 that allows the tool to be used on a wider range of ball joint sizes (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46389).

Thanks very much guys. This has been successful and fun.